Motooutcastxxx

TTT Last chance before I throw them on Ebay.... Anyone?

That is for the most part correct but you don't actually need an axle, plenty of people run extended a-arms with stock axles. I would say screw the axle and buy a decent set of front shocks for those extended arms. I should probably add, if you can afford it get the shocks and the axle..

I have another set of stock carbs here for sale... $50 Shipped Add 3% or send as gift. These were basically an experiment when I first started powder coating so they are far from perfect, I definitely don't recommend attempting for a beginner . However, they're not all that bad and would look pretty good if they were bolted up. The powder is a little rough in spots but they're definitely usable. They are drilled and tapped for idle screws but where the screws sit will probably need to be filed down a bit to allow the lock nut on the idle screws to sit perfectly flat against the carb body. Aside from missing the idle screws these carbs are complete with the needles, slides, and springs. Unfortunately the choke does not stay out on this set... Carb Bodies done in powder chrome. Caps and bowls are done in low gloss black For a few bucks more I can do the caps and bowls a different color... PM me for the list of colors if you'd like to switch them up, I don't have a whole lot but I do have a little assortment of powders. MORE PICS: http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg516/motooutcastxxx/Carbs5.jpg http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg516/motooutcastxxx/Carbs3.jpg http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg516/motooutcastxxx/Carbs6.jpg http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg516/motooutcastxxx/Carbs7.jpg

^^ Exactly what I was thinkin'!! Worst set of plastics for the Banshee I've ever seen!! ...And if anyone on here is runnin' them they more than likely will be to ashamed to post up a pic for ya..

Keep in mind too, some of the parts are carb specific, make sure slides are in the right way when you're done, and don't forget the choke tube. You might consider getting yourself a couple of carb rebuild kits, they're cheap, and then clean the shit out of them. I'm not sure this would be why it "ran away" but you never know, as already stated a clogged pilot can cause it though. If it spent a lot of time sitting outside and/or has a boost bottle I'd also definitely inspect the intake boots for tears, rips, dry rot, or something along those lines that could be causing an air leak. If the Tors boxes have been removed it probably already has the Tors removal kit on it.. Were the carb bodies drilled and tapped for the idle screws already? Are the idle screws there? If not I would at least grab an idle kit then. It never hurts to change a throttle cable either, again, if it sat outside for any length of time and you're questioning it change it.

Send a PM to 87sheerips or call JDS Customs, Last I knew he was thinking about producing a few but either way he'd probably make you a set.

I'm not sure you're on the same page as BigRed, the needle valves (aka float valves) are not the same as the needles located in the slides, which is kind of what it sounds like you think he's saying . Just grab yourself a couple of carb rebuild kits and disassemble them one at a time since a few of the parts are carb specific. Also keep in mind the needle valve and seat don't clean up all that well with just a spray of carb cleaner, those you kind of have to work at if you want them to perform flawlessly. Bottom line, just replace them they're cheap. Or this might help, it's supposed to work well but I would still go with the rebuild kits and find the link to the service manual on here, think it's in the technical section, so you can have all the specs to get the floats adjusted accurately.; http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/easy-almost-free-way-stop-leaky-carbs-33335/

Yup you're going to want to get yourself a BFH and have at it. Once the nut is removed you're good to go but if it's never been greased before the insides tend to fuse themselves together. I had to cut my swingarm off, it's a good thing I was planning on buying a new one, if you do have to hack it off just get yourself an angle grinder and it'll be off in 10 minutes. If you're able to remove it in one piece replace all the parts not just the bearings, pivot bolt included. Check out East Coast ATV they have some decent prices on all of it.. Good Luck. As was already stated... They definitely can be a real bitch!

If you're trying to operate the clutch just with the actuator arm it's not going to move all that freely since you're trying to operate the clutch with a little tiny lever, but you might want to pull it out and check the actuator bearing like Sick350 mentioned, clean, lube, and replace the seal. Definitely get a new clutch cable though..

Stock Carbs - $45 shipped Usable set of stock carbs w/ throttle cable, TORS removed.. obviously, have idle screws for it they're just not in the pics. Could use a decent cleaning inside and out but other than that they're good to go. Bought them from a member here, for some reason I started stock piling carbs so I have absolutely no use for these, just been sitting on the shelf since I bought them. Again, I've bought many parts off here just haven't sold too many, if it makes you feel better you can check my FB on ebay under the same user name I have here. Carbs will ship priority mail day after payment is made...

Stock Transmission $80 shipped - SOLD - will ship out priority mail w/ delivery confirmation the day after payment is made, unless of course that happens to be a Sunday. I've bought many parts off this site but it's my first time selling. I have 100% FB rating on ebay under the same user name as I have here if that helps and you want to check it out. Add 3% for paypal fees or gift. This is a good usable transmission, bought it for my next build but my current build budget is rather tight at the moment so it's got to go. I might be willing to swap for a decent set of race cut front plastics or definitely a Lonestar 1-1/8 bar clamp. I would also consider partial trades since I could use a nice set of pipe clamps, definitely a rear brake stay for a roundhouse carrier, maybe a decent set of bars. Who knows, try me this is just a few things I still need, other than tires and plastic there's a few smaller parts I'm still looking for. I will be in and out all day today so please don't expect an immediate response...

You pretty much just have to pull off the clutch basket.. I would just replace the whole shift shaft if it's seen some abuse, they're fairly cheap. HJR has a complete kit for $57. http://www.herrjugsracing.com/Transmission_clutch_Shifter.html This thread will give you a good idea. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912

That bracket with the "bulge" on it should slide back a bit farther than that, can't remember exactly though but I usually pull the bracket off, clean and lube everything up and it'll mount up as it should. On a side note and definitely not a good idea by any means, but on one of my lazy days I have taken that "bulge" to the grinder before too.... just sayin'.

PM sent.. Payment sent for stock length stainless rear brake line.

Throw an ad up in the 'wanted' section and cruise the 'for sale' section often, you'll find a better deal on here than ebay if you're looking for a used set. If you do find a set on ebay and Minkia38 is selling 'em.. stay away!

There might be a chance that the bad spot is actually repairable without having to strip the whole thing down, I suppose it could depend on where it's located though or maybe if it's a translucent powder with a chrome base or something along those lines. Smooth out the bad spot, make sure you have a good ground on the part and throw another coat of powder on. By no means is this the best idea but I've screwed up enough parts to know that it'll usually work as long as all of the contaminants from sanding are removed, it'll hold up better than a can that's for sure. Sandblasting works well but it definitely fuckin' sucks ass even in a cabinet, so if you want it stripped down fast to start over just grab some B-15(paste) or B-17(liquid) Industrial Stripper, I prefer the paste, the powder coating will practically just fall off within about 10 min. Seriously toxic stuff but if you're looking to strip off old PC fast I haven't found anything better.

Here's a pic of the choke tube... http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg516/motooutcastxxx/ChokeTube.jpg

That intake set up is for a bigger set of carbs, well at least the boots anyway. I have this one for my stock carbs, just don't forget to let him know what size boots you're going to need. Quality product and great guy to deal with too! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-Billet-Intakes-26-36-carb-Crossover-VForce-3-/280852359532?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item41641ae96c

This might help.. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=151484

It never hurts to have a roll of aluminum foil handy too...

I have used the high temp tape on numerous parts and I have yet to see it leave any adhesive behind. I have not tried the "aluminum heat duct tape" though but I think I'm going to pick some up today and try it out.

That's the way it's supposed to be, make sure you put the bowls back on the right carbs too. Always best to pull the carbs apart one at time since some parts are specific too each one..