ticktock

Sold, no pending! Thank you sir, I appreciate it Adam

Pm sent, sold if available

Well, since LMS have a 10mil serval and mine is in pieces here is what I can tell you. You are going to need a 10mil crank. You can get a reworked forged crank with Hotrods rods, good bearings and new for a good price at Wildcard racing. Talk to Brandon. He can hook you up. You will need a new serval cylinder or mayb a spacer plate but that's a lot of power I would think and I personally would stay away. You can sell your top end for a good price on BHQ. 75-80% of new I woul say. Blaster pistons, gaskets, ect. You will need your cases trenched and port matched. Prolly around 250 from any sponsor. All in all cost from nothing is around 2300 with domes cut for your altitude. You shoul be able to sell your top end with pistons for around 800-900 and your crank for 200-250? Hope that helps I might be off on prices a tad. If you go with a billet crank add 300-400 more. Adam

Fast, Wildcard, HJR, No limits all do port work and they make their customers extremely happy. Wildcard seem like he.could take great care of you. Give him a call

I run 40:1 927, or HP4. Just make sure you do good plug chop to make sure you are jetted correctly. Adam

with stock box, stock carb no port lid off, 27.5, stock needle 3rd clip, 280 mains at Sea level and it runs great, starts without choke. 25 pilots are good, starts harder needs choke a few kicks. Good luck, Adam

Maybe we can get his wife a really really small t shirt : ) Adam

Look closely at the stator side, you can see the crank is splitting. This came from a motor that was in a box, "parts lot" The rods on the Clutch side are in spec. The stator side, to me, looks like it can be press back together and welded, I don't know. Maybe a builder can chime in a say its salvageable. There is no plug in the rods up and down, all the needles are still in the big end bearing. The center crank bearings spin freely with no hangups and feel tight. The stator bearing spins freely but has some side to side wobble the other one does not, maybe one of your bearings is still good? Maybe there is nothing wrong with this one. The head is pretty close to mint, the domes are perfect. Its free stuff if you want it, I will stuff it in a large flat rate box with some good packing and ship it to you, or a builder you might have in mind to fix it. I can ship on Wednesday. I will clean it up tomorrow and ship it end of the day on Wednesday. The price for shipping is 15.45 for the Large box. Please gift the payment to [email protected] to avoid fees on my end. Let me know if its something you want, pm me and it will be shipped Wednesday. If its trash I'm sorry, I don't understand why it cant be pressed back together by someone who knows what they are doing and welded. Adam

I've seen water do that to connecting rods before. If you need I have a stock head for free, I also have a stock crank that is seperating. Free also. The crank seems good , rods are fine just needs pressed back together, trued and welded. You pay for shipping they are yours. Adam

When people ask for Gifts I normally pay the fees. Most of the time that is all they are asking. Now on the other hand if the seller is someone that has a reputation I consider good, then I will gift to save myself the fee. Always pay the fee with MattSCSS though! Thanks for getting my Shock parts, everything is perfect

I am running 35pwk with airbox on RDZ ported cylinders. CEL needles, 160 mains and 60 pilots. Pilot circuit is far and I need 48-52's and play with them. I have CPI pipes and it runs great. Sometimes it hesitates because too much fuel but after its I the band it runs perfect. Hope that helps

Good seller here. Parts are quality. Bump for Troy!

Well, if you go 4mm you need a head, domes pistons and proper porting. So 850-900 bucks. 400ish for teh crank, 169 for chariot cool head, 80 for domes and 200 for pistons providing your dad does your porting. + seals + gaskets. Just port your cylinders, get a cool head, chariot or NOSS. And run the shit out of it Adam

Sounds like jetting + air screw. You have something different between the two carbs, pilots, needles, needle clip position. Start over! Adam

I have 25 pilot 280 main stock needle. Sea level runs great.

A TUSK CLUTCH IS KEVLAR. BUY A NONKEVLAR CLUTCH. Kevlar breaks down and muddies up the oil. I don't like them. Adam

Heres the photo's of the damn cub, quit fucking crying. He sends pics if you want them. If you wanted to buy the damn thing you would pm him, so STFU or GTFO Good luck selling broke, if you send me the pics for the cases and crank I will upload so everyone can window shop. Adam

Lol, just got pics, I thought you missed me!

Text me some pics. Pm sent

Welcome to the forum!! BHQ has a lot to offer. You can download the service manual from the link below. I would adjust your air screw on the carb. Just above the bowl left side of the carbs is a small screw. I would turn it all the way in and count the turns until snug prolly 1 or 1 1/2. Then set back to prolly 1 1/2 on both. Ride the bike when it's warm see how the idle is. If you have pipes roomy T-5 or something your jetting should be 25 pilot and around 280 at sea level. Also suggested for carb syncing is buying one of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-WEBER-DELLORTO-DUAL-CARB-SYNCHROMETER-TOOL-EMPI-/400279359763?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5d32825113&vxp=mtr#ht_4911wt_1503 This will help with syncing the carbs and should cure the idle. Adam

Take a pic and post it. These assholes around here can spot a junk! Haha

Thanks Tyler! But that's the service manual. Not the Clymers! Kiss my ass

Does anyone have a clymers download they can add to the service manual I have up. I see a lot of folks referencing the Clymers and maybe we can get it uploaded. Adam

You can download the manual from the link below

In the directions I believe it said to take off 3/4 of an inch with a file. Just file down a little more and you will get more adjustment on the idle screws.