Jgspahn

Hmmm.. I wonder where I can take it to press it in.

I just need ONE.. for the read.. are they just regular bolts or is there something special about them???

The Harley place carries bell ray for 13$ a liter.. I think I'm gonna go that direction

Possibly.. I figured I got a good deal. I do know he put plugs in the threaded holes and I assume the other holes on there. Yall are buzz kills lol

My ole lady told me thicker was better.... but for real.. iono.. i asked him to spray it good and thick and i was thinking like 6 mil or so.. Maybe it will hold up better that thick?

Just back from the powder man... pictures are kinda shitty cause its inside. A-arms, tie-rod, rear skid, front bumper and swinger for 90 bucks! Gloss black and about 10 mill thick on the arms and skid!

Well.. .I went ahead and had it done. I just picked them up. Got it all done for 90 bucks. Sorry for shitty pictures they were taken inside. The pics dont do them justice, and my grubby finger prints show really bad too. They look great., now I only hope they hold up and perform.

I was under the impression that once you do that mod you never have to rebuild it again.. is that the wrong train of though?

How would I check the Primary and Secondary coil? Im about to go check the other ones now.

Ive been looking at JDS pegs I searched their page and didnt find anything that said it fit my bike... Ive been looking at some JDS Customs ones.. but im being a cheapass.. If I dont find some used on Ill prolly just get JDs.

Ive read about it on here. The "how-to" write up doesnt sound toooo difficult, but I dont have my dremel with me since I moved, and I dont feel like driving hours and hours to get it. So who wants to do this for me? How much are ya gonna charge?

Looking for a set of the larger than stock pegs.. whos got deals on deals goin for tha low?????

Theres a Harley shop around the corner from my office. I never thought of checking there ... Im gonna run by there after work today.. Thanks!

Alot of people are saying that Belray Gear Saver.. I went looking for it at autozone the other day and they didnt carry it. To order it online its like freaking 18$ a quart with shipping. Anybody know if any other chain stores carry this in stock?

Gotcha lol thanks

I'm prolly setting myself up for failure here but...... Really? No fucking way..

ATF.. 8090..1030..Hydraulic Fluid..Unicorn cum... mind blown........................................................ I think Im just going to stick with 1030 for now.. I know it works.. might try the gearsaver 8090 tho...

I probably over change my oil anyway. I usually change it once a month during the spring summer and fall months.. just to have an excuse to go to the shop and tinker with stuff.

Well I used the search bar, and relayed the information I found. In case you missed it I said : I searched some old posts and folks were running 80-90?? They also said the tranny fluid stinks (insert joke). The problem is (which i understand is prolly not fixable) that alot of the previous topics dont come to a consensus conclusion. I sometimes end up with more questions than answers when I read older topics. I realize there are different strokes for different folks, and its hard to come to one answer when there are hundreds of opinions out there. Im well versed in this website, and I read it religously, and I also usually use the search bar as much as I can before I make a post. And hey, as long as there are discussions the site is active.. I dont see what the big deal is...

Thanks, thats pretty much what I was looking for. I searched some old posts and folks were running 80-90?? They also said the tranny fluid stinks (insert joke). The only motor oil for wet clutches (which I assume is what Im supposed to buy) around here is the kawasaki stuff.

Fast Friendly Service...right?

Im really just trying to find out if there is a better solution than just 10 30. If it really doesn't make a difference, cool, but ive spent good money on my motor and I want the best for it.

Case oil..iono what to call it. Used to calling the case the crankcase.. but what I mean is where the transmission is.. what you check with the dipstick...

I've heard of folks doing this. Sounds like a good idea to me. Any specific type to use? Any down side to this?

Where in my service manual would it tell me how to test it?