Jgspahn

This might be a dumb question, but ive only ran a leak test on a motor that wasnt on the bike.. so do I have to drain the oil before performing the leakdown test?

Ive been reading old threads here and they all say the the harbor freight compression tester is crap. Well.. thats the one i have. Is it worth running? Should I skip the compression test and just run the leak down test? Im thinking.. run the leakdown test and then report back. Based on the info gained from that test i should then just open her up and look at the pistons and what not.. right?? What compression tester would yall recommend I buy?

I know man.. bout 10 minutes and I skipped it. Lesson learned for sure. I'm really thinking the carbs had more to do with this than the skipped tests. I adjusted the float so low to keep the carbs from leaking that I ran it outta gas. Also my fault tho.. uggghhh

I kept riding because I didn't really know what happened. I stopped, looked it over and didn't see anything wrong, kicked it over and it started and I rode for less than an hour before I eased it home.. but yes.. It was dumb .. Ill do a compression test tomorrow. Can I do the leak down test with the motor on the bike? Im pretty sure I can.

So here's the deal. I was nearing the end of my complete rebuild of my bike.. frame, motor, all that... Sent the jugs off to get ported, bored to new pistons, and had the head shaved. All new gaskets, bearings, seals, crank trued and welded. Spent alot of $$ that it took me a long time to save. So I got all the parts back and began the assembly of the engine (my first one to build). I felt like everything went well..but I got in a hurry towards the end trying to get the bike back together for a big ride. Skipped leak tests and compression tests and all that good stuff (yes i know this is huge and dumb and I deserve to have my money go up in smoke for being a dumbass and getting in a hurry and being a careless fuck head). But, despite all those mistakes, the bike cranked and ran pretty good. All you guys helped me get it jetted at like 2am, and I was ready to go. My carbs have leaked on and off since day one. No matter what I do, I cant seem to get them to stop. Ive bought rebuild kits, replaced the needle valve, and adjusted and adjusted and adjusted the float height. So, after I got the bike together I just used the fuel shut off to try and deal with the leaky carbs problem. During the first ride.. about an hour in.. I was on a long pull and ran one of the cylinders outta gas. I rode it for a little while longer, and then decided to ease it home and put it on the truck. The bike hasnt run right since.. I pulled it off a few times and couldnt keep it running well. Kick it 1000 times and cant get it to really run, but I think that has a little to do with the fact the carbs are constantly overflowing. The bike has been sitting at a friends while Ive been moving, but now Im moved in and the shop is set up and Im ready to start to try and fix this mistake. My question to the community is can anyone give me a list and an order of things to do and check so I cant start the process of doing whatever needs to be done? I'd like to keep this thread running during the process. Thanks folks

Got a gas tank?

^^^This

can I find this hose at autozone

What can I use for pipe clamps for a weekend.. Some type of hose and hose clamps?

I've got the arrows lined up on the top of the case

When I hold my clutch in and rev the bike it wants to move forward just a little bit.. also, it feel like there is not enough tension to pull the clutch back into place when I release it.. like i have to push it back that last inch after I shift.. How/what do I need to adjust to fix this?

Running 330s, 27.5,needle in the middle... Runs it's ass off.. Thanks for the help folks

Runs like dog shit right now.. need big time help jetting.. check out my thread in the jetting and exhaust section guys

:Update: Leak is fixed Still wont idle or start without blipping the throttle.. still falls on its face down low..not much throttle response.. its like it cant catch up to itself.. but when it does, kinda like around half way to 3/4, it raises the wheels off the road with ease

Ok floats are adjusted.. running 330s w/ 30s.. air screw out 1.5.. about to run it and see what happening.. stay tuned.

Would the float being too high or too low cause the over flow problem.. I measured about 16mm says it should be 20

Awesome, I needed that picture.. I'll adjust air screw to 1.5 turns, and do those jet changes.. I'll keep reporting back, about take carbs off now.

They were out of 330. I have 340 and 320. I'll go to 340 with 30s and report back. On the leaking carb, I've beat on it and I've cleaned the crap out of the needle jet or whatever it is. I have a factory manual, does it do a good job of explaining float height? Lastly.. Is the idle screw and mixture screw the same on the left side carb. If not, I might have them confused or something... Thanks for helping me guys

ok, here we go guys.. I have to get this thing jetted TONIGHT. I been staying at the shop till almost 3am trying to get this motor built and bike back together. Everything is done, all thats left is to jet it. Heres where im at: 340 mains 27.5 pilots You gotta give it gas to get it cranked... the left side carb is pouring gas outta the overflow.. it wont idle.. runs like shit till about half throttle.. runs great at 1/2 throttle.. about 3/4 throttle it starts cutting out again.. HEEEEELP me.. I have a big ride this weekend and I want to show off my bike thats been 2 years building

Jeffs latest creation. Called him on Monday, and got my seat on Wednesday.. You can't beat that. Copied the lettering from a guy in here, hope you don't mind man.

I used a feeler gauge and got it pretty close. Thanks for the help guys.

Set the rear last night.. gotta do the front today

But they definitely go behind the arm right.. cause mine are in the front right now and it looks stupid

Y'all were exactly right, thanks guys!