Zwiser

you dont have to split the cases.

its your right (clutch side) crank seal,. there not that hard to replace as long as you have some sorta clue on what your doing. just take the clutch out, pressure plate, steels and friction plates, inner hub, basket, then take the crank gear off and youll see the seal, just pry it out with a screw driver without damaging the cases, or you can drill a drywall screw in to it on each side and tighten them slowly with a screw driver and itll back out. this should take 1-2hr make sure you use oem seals always.

pics of pwr rad.

i have the pro flow kit , i havent really rode it yet but i wouldnt run pods just for the fact that i ride where its wet and muddy. if you ride in the dunes or somewhere you dont have alot of water then youd benifiet from pods because of the increased airflow

get it media or bead blasted, then just get it powder coated or polished.

with the added compression it draws more fuel/air in, and needs a bigger jet to compensate for the added need for fuel/air.

i did driil it out, but i hd to press it out of the a arm afterwards.

you want to start with the pilots and id say your to rich, thats way after its warmed up its getting to much fuel and wont idle. But also these keihin pwks like the idle screw turned almost all the way in, i had the same prob with my blaster, ride it around and when you come to a stop and let the throttle off it dies.

buy the tommey jet kit, it smooths everything out.

if its under 110 psi its time for a rebuild, id just do pistons and all, so then you can ride for another 200hrs and not have a problem. make sure you correctly break it in afterwards.

I was also wondering this, seen a couple of them on ebay, but i didnt think it was worth it. Im guessing they just clean it up abit so you dont have the tube anymore. but ive never seen clutch breather tubes on any other quad, only crankcase breathers.

1983 Chevy c-30 dually

would you part it out?

also this would be a good time to put a zerk fitting in the carrier, if you do replace the bearings. just make sure you clean all the metal shavings out.

My guess it's too rich, same thing happens with my blaster with out tors and great compression, I just bumped the main down some ended up with a 145 from a 155 you won't go this low because I had a 35 pwk but you should be in the 250-270 range

I used those bushings above and there's no more play

i tried a air hammer, it didnt budge

How do you Down load this it wont let me says i have to have a premium account

yeah its not going anywhere i guess ill just have to do what you suggested, thanks

but how am i soppused to get the bolt out if i drill the ends off? i belive the bolt is bent like in the middle of the arm

tried the impact and pb blaster, i think the bolt might be bent? and i used a punch insdide of a screwdriver to beat it out but still didnt budge?

So i replaced all the a arm bushing but the upper right a arm, the bolt is stuck, i tried every thing i can think of and it doesnt budge, any suggestions?

what ratio are you pre mixing?

maybe when your pod fell off i little piece of dirt got into your pilot jet, did you try cleaning the carb? also check your air/fuel screw mine turned in by its self on my blaster and it died once i let off the throttle and wouldnt start till i noticed it was turned in.

Sweet shee! whats all done to the motor?