Zwiser

would you sell just the seat cover?

I was thinking the same thing, lol

Klotz supertecniplate...

got the lights to work again. just cleaned the connectors up with battery terminal cleaner and put some die electric grease on them

IDK how wet it got but, I was in the house and it started pouring so I ran out to put it away and then this, so id image it got wet, ill look for bare wires also. And does it matter that the wire coming out of my tether is touching the clutch perch?

So I was pulling the shee into the garage yesterday, because it started to rain and I started it (with the high beams ON) and after it warmed up I went to pull the clutch in and got shocked. Then once I saw there was only one light one I turned them off and then back on, the low beams work on both, but the left one doesnt turn on when I turn it to the high beams. So do I need new bulbs or did I short somthing out? Also what head light bulbs do you guys run?

I wired mine so that i could use the stock kill switch also. I spliced one wire into the solid black wire coming from the kill switch, and the other wire into the black wire with a white stripe

Ok so I just bought a Mr. Gasket thermocap, and its not fitting at all it wont even sit in the radiator. I got the 16 psi model # is 2471S Is there any modifications that I have to do to make it fit?

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pics of the uni filter?

ok thanks...

anybody have a good temp gauge

i just put some grease on it.

i run klotz super techniplate at 32:1, and no problems so far

why didnt you just buy the maier ones that are pre cut for like $90

dont cut new fenders.

so id have to get a water temp gauge? to find out when to shut it down.

I just use yama-lube 10w-40 i heard the synthetic stuff makes the clutch slip Oil is new BTW

i think the specs are .002mm - .005mm measure the piston then measure the cylinder and subtract to get those numbers ^^

what happends if it gets to hot? will it seize or just shut off

So this is my first liquid cooled atv, so idk if this is just normal or what, but after like 2 minutes of riding, I felt the cylinders and they are rather hot (like i cant keep my fingers on the for more than 10 seconds before my reactions tell me to move them) This is the first time ive started it after the rebuild. When i first got it i torn it down and found that the stock impelor had seized so i replaced it with a billet one and got a new gear and bearing and seal. There are no airleaks and jetting is good maybe a little rich. Also there is some white particles foating in my coolant, but im guessing its from the white lithium grease i put on the orings of the cool head. I can see the coolant flowing through the rad at idle but when i rev it, it viberates to much to see.

Why stock pistons??? They are cast, which means they shatter if the piston to wall clearance is to great. So if you measure the clearances first and there good you should be fine. On the other hand forged pistons will also break but not in such small pieces so it probably wont hurt your crank bearings and itll be a easier clean up, if they do break.

Nevermind I found my answer by searching.

How can I make finding neutral easier? I spent like 3 minutes trying to put it in neutral to park it before I gave up and just stalled it.

i dont think they make a cylinder with cr 125 reed cage, but they do make one for trx 250r reeds cages.