dcalsv02

I bought it yesterday for 360 and it is pretty sick. The clutch is on the left bumper and preload is back. everything is a lot more realistic. The shitty part is, you have to start out on a 250 fourstroke quad or a 125 dirt bike. Ill be putting in some hours this weekend.

Pure was too unrealistic for me. I have it and play it from time to time (because its the only game that has a banshee) but the mx vs atv series seems more realistic and believeable. I cant wait to try alive.

I sold my t-5's already but I still have the silencers and stinger tubes for sale. Let me know if you are interested.

Hey, I'm no master tech like some of these guys, but I know enough to get me in trouble. Try checking the carb slides. They could be in backwards. There is a halfmoon cutout at the bottom of the slides, and those cutouts need to be facing towards the back of the bike. I seem to remember this happening to my bike before. Hope that helps.

If you aren interested in a set of shearer's pm me. My step dad has a set sitting on his shelf that are barely used and are show room chrome from cascade innovations. They are small bore(i believe) in frames. He switched to pt's and has just been letting the shearer's collect dust.

A banshee was the fastest out there last year that i saw, besides english's sand truck. Hopefully ill get a ride in it this year.

Im going to this years Raptor rally (with my banshee of course) in two weeks. Are there any members that are going as well? Im goin with the english racing crew. Im one of 2 banshees reppin, everyone else has turbo'd raptors. Just curious if im gonna have some help running against all the raptors.

Wait, so I must be behind the curve. you can put r1 and r6 shocks on the rear of a banshee? How much lower than stock are they? I ride the dunes and do some jumping, hillshoots and drags. Will either one of those shocks work for my type of riding? What years of the r6 and r1 work?

I fixed it, I switched to a single 35pwk setup. Much better.

But what type of riding do you do with those r-2's? The origianal post-er said he does a lot of trail riding but still likes to beat down 4 strokes on the drag. For the type of riding he mentioned, i would reccomend Paul Turner's or t-5's. With the pt's you will gain bottom end for the trails, where from what i have read the r2's are mid-top end pipes. t5's are good pipes period. With a 421 motor you should be able to stomp most 4 strokes on the strip no matter which pipes you chose. It will just depend on where in the power band you want to start walking away from your opponents.

a slipping clutch you can hear and feel. in gear under load (on the throttle) you will hear the rpms rise but you wont feel much pull from the bike.

you are right, not much has changed in the 2-1 trinity setup. save for cascades manifold. I brought my trinity manifold in to compare. They are different. I would think that their new manifold would boast much better performance.

ok, cool. Thanks, i will give that a try after i get back from supercross. thanks again. Ill post if i have any more issues.

I will check that out. So obviously new spring if the coils are sharp, but what is the remedy if the cable guide is sticking out past the carb top?

RTV is your friend, especially if you have the older (non o-ring having) paul turners. The newer style has the o-ring which seals up nicely, but the old style pt's need the rtv to seal up any possible exhaust leaks. I use it on my old style pt's and it works fine. Don't be skerd

Banshees were basically unchanged through out their production life, so they never had too many new issues like other more requently improved/redesigned models. When its running take note of the exhaust. Make sure both silencers are smoking equally. Check for a case saver or if it has the case mod.

Anyone?

I dont know what your elelvation is but i would bet sleeper06 is saying put the needle on the 2nd clip from the bottom (aka 4th clip i believe), which will make it more rich.

I just put on a single 35mm pwk and after I had it installed and tested the throttle (twist). When I twist the throttle I can feel the slide return spring through the grip. The spring feels like it is hanging up slightly or the carb body or something is rubbing against the coils of the spring when I open the throttle. Has anyone encountered this problem? Is it in fact a problem or something i need to get used to? The throttle doesnt stick at all, it just doesnt feel buttery smooth like the stock carbs did. I only notice it when the bike is off, however im not sure if it is an issue I need to worry about. thanks for the help guys.

I just put the 2-1 setup on my ported stock cylinder 66mm, 17cc cool head, paul turner, csfx silencer, motor and i am stoked to ride it. i will post details after the first ride. last setup was stock carbs. Im anticipating an increase all over.

Maybe you want to give cascade innovations a call and ask them about your single setup. They have custom made a new intake mani for the single carb setup that they are swearing by. Most of their bikes are using the new setup. They are saying that they can get the most performance out of their new single carb setup. www.cascadeinnovations.net . Im actually putting their setup on my bike this week. It looks really clean also. Just a thought. Nothing wrong with twin carbs, just putting that out their.

Could be a few things. if its staying reved up i would say that it is too lean. what is your elevation, main jet, idle jet, air box setup, motor setup, pipes.....I would turn your air screw all the way in and back out 1.5 turns and see if that fixes the lean rev.

Really 350 mains? Are they stock carbs? I have 310's in and my bike seems rich now. Im not at the dunes now, but here the elevation (here it is 460 ish) is about the same as the beach but the air is more dense and my bike bogs if I snap the throttle here. Which has me thinking I will need to jet down when I get to the beach when the air is thinner. I have the stock needle and it is the third from the top I believe.

Im also running +4 on my timing plate. I will get my hands on a compression tester as soon as I can and get back to you. I am running straight race fuel. Im not sure on the brand of fuel. As for the porting. I took my cylinders to cascade and they looked at them (I was told the porting was a trinity port prior) and said that it had mild porting. Looks like a clean up type port as far as I can tell. Im not sure if the port timing has been changed or anything. Thanks again.

I just finished my bike and I change my pipes and need to re-jet. My setup is stock jugs with mild porting, 66mm pistons, stock carbs (310 mains, stock pilots, which won't idle. haven't touched the air screw), dual k&n pods with outer-wears, stock reeds, cool head with 17cc domes, Paul Turner pipes (formerly t-5's), cascade silencers. With the change in pipes would I be jetting up or down from where I am now? I plan on buying jets but I don't know which way to go. It's a dune only, so its always near sea level. second question, what pilots do I need to make it idle? Is there a definite answer, or do I need to do guess and check? What about my air screw? Do I need to mess with that? Last question... I know this is a jetting forum, but Is there anything in my description of my setup that screams failure? I have a true and welded crank, and weisco pistons. Sorry for all the terrible grammar, and scatter brained questions. I am in a bit of a hurry at the moment. Thanks in advance for all the helpful advice.