sprinklerman

I have a set of cases for sale that are trenched for a 10mm crank. (NYUKs old cases) They are in great working shape (they are matched set) but DO have chain whack. The whacked area has been cleaned and smoothed up. They are also port matched to cub cyls. Painted black with some type of black satin oil/gas resistant paint. All bearing surfaces and sealing surfaces are in good shape. The only reason i stopped running them is because i bought a part-out bike and kept the cases from that bike to polish up and run my 10mm in. < 200.00 + Shipping> Will post pictures tomorrow. Thanks for looking forgot to mention, they are NOT epoxied . they are trenched the right way.

You know thats a lie,,,,your wife is not gonna get preggers by a homo...

Looking for some CLEAN 39 PWK alky carbs. Id prefer pumpers. But might consider some gravity's with billet bowls (2nd choice tho). I DO NOT want the old mikuni,pill style power jets. Please provide me with the needle,what the dump tubes are drilled to,pilot,and all that pertinent info. Id like to be able to confirm who's/what bike they were on ,so i can confirm they worked good. Carbs are something i usually dont buy used,so if i cant get all that info,i'll just buy new. Thanks in advance! ****found some lectrons, please ignore add

good to have you here Tony. We've talked before at length about cranks ,,and i do appreciate the time you spent edumacating me on them! To OP,,umm,,id call TDR about that crank if it was me.

man ,,,if you EVER decide to sell those plastics......

where at? im in S/E corner by broken bow lake.

Exactly what N2O said ^^ I was going to clarify that im not doubting the longevity of the motor ( although the one i personally saw didnt have a much chamfer on the ports and was eating rings) its just the guy himself, his bad mouthing other builders, really was crappy. Then it was proved that he was doing that because his motors just couldnt keep up. So he dropped his prices to cater to the people who just couldnt afford a 250.00 port job. But as far as your motor,,shoot,,if it runs,run it and have fun!! I really doubt its a "time bomb" or anything , for the reasons N2O stated above. Just dont expect to be king of the dunes,,unless its been re-worked. And it very well could have been.

^^^^ yep! it was brian! i couldn't remember his name. I had a set of his cyls in my had (that was about 13-14yrs ago mind you) and it was a crying shame what he did to them. The poor guy had spent all he could to get a "fast" bike done by AllPro,,and had crud for his hard earned $$$. What bugged me the most about him,is that he would bad mouth guys like Dave Moore (MP Racing) and Dan Wade (Patriot Racing) and Brent Macmillen (Mac Racing) K&T,,all the good guys at the time....and it was obvious he didnt have proper tooling to do a nice job. edit> he was in LA not MS

I remember AllPro. if i remember right,he was from MS. Was a hack,i DO remember that. In fact i remember driving 4-5 hrs to lay the smack down on one of his bikes because of all the interwebz smack taling at the time. It was a 404 and mine was a plain old 350. He was one of those "THINKS he knew it all" types,and talked bad about some of the PROVEN builders at that time ,,,

a 35pwk (not air striker) seems to be about the most common for the trinity 2/1 setups. Have one on the wifes bike. I you are buying from them,id let them suggest jetting. But there are numerous threads here on proper 2/1 jetting.

Haha ,,then why did you ask?? you already knew the answer.

I know this isnt the answer you're looking for,but if you buy a new cable,adjust everything right,and put an ASV lever on it,you'll throw rocks at that Hydro clutch. IMO, that's the true solution.

are you going back with the orange frame? For some reason i really liked the orange on orange you had.

i ran the Boss intake as well Jbooker, and after replacing the cheapo rubber boots and sealing it with motoseal,to worked fine. When i switched to the UPP intakes ,i was worried about clutch arm clearance,but they ended up clearing just fine. I guess it just bugged me to pay 100+ bux for an intake THEN have to "fix" it with new rubber boots and use sealant on it. But all-in -all it not a BAD piece ,,,,,,its just a piece. haha

id pass on a billet and just get some UPP. i prefer the way they fit and angle everything...also,,,they dont require sealant to keep them from leaking!! Ive had both ,and if available,ill go UPP. IMHO.

chuck a old spark plug ( the metal part) into a drill or preferably a drill press, and screw the dome into that. Then just use some sandpaper to clearance it a touch.

Thanks man. Ive heard bad things about PCing cylinders ,,that the temps required to cure it can soften the alum enough to make the threads pull in the stud areas. So i paint my cyls as well. But i have yet to find a paint that looks like whats in your piture,is why i asked. thanks!

Looking for a round housing, link style, +12" swinger. Absolutely NO junk or repairs...my rear will be on this thing. Thanks!

if its truly "setup" for alky,then they wont work on gas. The dump tube will be drilled out too big for gas.

I will... need to be ready for the apocalypse..dont want to be at the back of the pack.

mmmm DM........must have one...

usually its when they were trenched or sometime when they get too frisky matching them to the transfers on the cyls, and hit air. So then they have to fill the hole with epoxy. If they were trenched for something bigger than a 10mm they usually HAVE to be epoxied.

Actually , the industry standard definition of the words in question are what i cut and pasted. No where in a legitimate two stroke tech article or forum will you see the term "predetonation" used...But i do know what you were trying to say,and do appreciate the info shared. The reason i even brought this up is, if we are going to share ideas on technical subjects,we need to adhere to the PROPER (industry standard)definitions and terminology so we are all on the same page. And Merriam Webster IS NOT the final word in defining two stroke terminology. Unless Webster was a gearhead! haha

im not a grammer expert,,believe me. what im refering to is the fact that is simply detonation..not "pre detonation) detonation,by its very definition is this (cut and paste) > Detonation Detonation is the spontaneous combustion of the end-gas (remaining fuel/air mixture) in the chamber. It always occurs after normal combustion is initiated by the spark plug. The initial combustion at the spark plug is followed by a normal combustion burn. For some reason, likely heat and pressure, the end gas in the chamber spontaneously combusts. The key point here is that detonation occurs after you have initiated the normal combustion with the spark plug. Pre-ignition Pre-ignition is defined as the ignition of the mixture prior to the spark plug firing. Anytime something causes the mixture in the chamber to ignite prior to the spark plug event it is classified as pre-ignition. The two are completely different and abnormal phenomenon. So you see, there IS no such thing as "pre" detonation. Im not trying to nit-pick you,im just asking that when great info is being dispensed ,that it be accurate. The point of dispensing info is to educate guys like me and others,,so lets make sure we are being educated with ACCURTE info. Thats all im saying. Honestly,Thanks again!

if it says S65, its a 35 A/Stryker. Does it have "fins" on the intake side of the carb?