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Everything posted by sprinklerman
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I have some Douglas Beadlocks with like new Maxxis Razrs on them if you are looking for some.
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Revised Part Out list
sprinklerman replied to sprinklerman's topic in For Sale - Parts & Accessories
No, its not a40mm, its a std 35mm for stock axle diam. -
Revised Part Out list
sprinklerman replied to sprinklerman's topic in For Sale - Parts & Accessories
Will do tomorrow Troy. Its just like a new "blem" from JJ&A. Im sure where it clamps inside the swinger tube , the anodize is scratched /wore from rubbing. And the inner side of the brake stay has 2 rub marks were it adjusts. The adjustment holes are perfect and comes with the factory adjuster tool. It has about 5 hrs of dune riding time on it. -
All parts will be ran through my parts washer before shipment if you like. I was in a hurry to get pix ,so i didn't clean them before. They are dusty because they sat on the guys back porch for some time before i bought the bike. Not rusty though,just dirt/dust. ">I will get new pictures of parts tomorrow . Some pictures available here> http://bansheehq.com...1 ... but i'll get updated ones asap. ** All prices are plus shipping List of parts > UMI alum airbox filter adapter 15.00 Faded,with stress marks,but uncracked blue race cut plastics > 50.00 Stock pegs, black > 25.00 Good seat pan with latch (no foam) 25.00 Front hubs 40.00 rear hubs (2 sets) 30.00 per pair stock axle (2) 25.00 ea stock spindles 40.00 sprocket hubs (2) 20.00 (1) 35mm blue anodized JJ & A round carrier (5hrs ride time) 85.00 (2) stock swingers 20.00 ea (2) front calipers 40.00 airbox with toomey vents 10.00 Toomey needles for stock carbs 25.00 Metal heel guards (metal part only) 20.00 front brake lines (2 sets) 10.00 for both gas tank (with petcock and cap) 20.00 2005 SE Rad shroud (blue flames) 25.00 Radiator with hoses 25.00 stock lower A Arms 25.00 pair Dog Bone 20.00 Steering stem 25.00 Rear Shock (white spring) 60.00 "> "> "> "> "> "> "> "> "> "> "> ">
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Dont look any cheaper price wise than ASV to me. You can get ASV "Pro perch clutch and brake" levers from ASV for 100.00,,,for BOTH.
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A bunch of us were taking turns racing and then sitting along the sidlines of the 1st "drag strip" area talking . Well Dozer was racing a LT500, if i remember right, and when he got towards the end of the strip area,instead of letting off,he kept her pinned and flew over the "whooped out" shut down area. Id say it was one of several 1'-2' sloping drop offs. Apparently the balljoint let loose and the rest is history. That was a tore up and bumpy drag strip area for sure. I didnt have the balls to go full throttle thru that last 20yds like Dozer. If i didnt have them beat before that point,then id take the loss. They were racing approx 400'-500' it looked like to me. I shut her down after 300' so i could go thru the whoopy area at a lower speed after my shock let loose the day before. Had me kinda spooked. At least thats the way i saw it?? Bike was running strong tho Dozer! Way to represent. haha
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Glad you made it out ok,,saw you limping a little tho! If you need anything to get it back together ,let me know. Prolly have enough spare parts laying around to get her ripping again. She was doing well before you diagonally endo'd in 5th gear!!
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In my limited experience in sand,TQ wins races,not a high HP number. Yes i understand the mathematical relation between the two,but some guys can make a better TQ curve on their engines and win the race over a "higher HP" bike. But yea, the 4 pokes with their more "trackable " power/TQ delivery seem to do quite well up against a "higher peak HP" 2stroke equivalent . IMO. An when i say TQ, i dont mean a tractor/grunt style motor ,i mean a good drag motor thats not doggy or boggy when i comes to a healthy TQ curve.
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Thats strange,,,usually people looking for jobs on Craigslist are so honest. Id try cleaning everything 1st. Then while you have the carbs apart,take note of what you have in them as far as jetting,and include that with a list of your mods and elevation.
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I dont know much about beadlocks as its not the type of riding i do.( thats why i dont have a starting price.) Im selling these though,with Razr tires. They are Banshee fitment of course. They polish up nice and have NO dings or any kind of scratch that wouldn't come out with some wheel polish. If someone can ID these as to what they are exactly,id appreciate it. Also let me know the approximate price . I think they are billet?? At least the centers are. The beadlocks are only on the outside. Thanks for the help! "> This is NOT rust or corrosion in this pic,,just light dust from sitting in the shop>> "> ">
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Remaining parts still up for sale. Things like: Tank' Lower A Arms Frnt and Rear hubs axle swingers rear tires and wheels ( scorpions on stock wheels 40% tread)
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Id have to agree with Nasty on his assessment of the Padla brat tire. They wear VERY well,are ULTRA light,and have great mid race and top-end pull. They just dont seem to bite as hard out of the hole as say a 72-73 roll out Hauler. From the looks of the picture, you alls "sand" is pretty tight. Ours is like powder,so thats probably why you are getting a better bite than we do with them,,,at least out of the hole.
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i have a set of comp cut 9 paddles on wheels if you are looking for a good dune tire. They do pretty good a drag racing,but are not as good as a dedicated drag tire. ..but a dedicated drag tire isnt going to "dune" as well as the Brats,so pick you're poison. If you want just a straight drag tire,you'll want to look into some SLS, full buff haulers. probably 21" or 22" tall. I will say the comp cut brats are lighter than the ultra-light haulers.
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Remember " Used = New".
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Too much tire. When my serval was unported,9pdl Brats were a good "dune" style tire,but not great for drags. When it was ported they still worked fine for duning . 18 is waaay too much for a serval.

