andrew3160

This thread should tell you everything you need to know about the electrical system on the Banshee including what your stator should test at. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650 Ignition coil should be 13.7-20.5 Ohms (red to green wire) Pickup coil should be 94-140 Ohms (white/red to white/green wire) Pickup coil gap: 0.015"-0.020" Q#29:How do I test the Ignition Coil on the Stator? A#29:Using an ohmmeter and the specifications above, check the resistance between the red wire and the green wire on the four-wire harness coming out of the stator. Find the four-wire connector (usually white), at the front of the airbox on the right-hand side of the bike. Depress the little plastic retainer on the connector and disconnect the two connector halves. Take a look at the wire on the connector towards the front of the bike, it should run under the carbs and into the left-hand side of the motor’s bottom end. That is the connector you want to test. On the back side of the connector where the wires enter, locate the red and green wires. Set your ohmmeter to test resistance (and the correct range if you need to), and touch one test lead to the terminal on the red wire, and the other test lead on the terminal on the green wire. Your ohmmeter should read between 13.7 and 20.5 Ohms, so if it reads 15 Ohms your stator ignition coil is OK, if it reads “- -“ or infinite Ohms or anything less than 13.7 or more than 20.5, then the stator is shot. Q#30:How do I test the Pickup Coil? A#30:Same as above Q#29, except you will be testing between the red & white wire and the green & white wire in the four-wire connector. You should have between 94 and 140 Ohms between these two wires. An important note is that the pickup coil needs to have the correct gap between it and the flywheel tabs. To check the gap, rotate the flywheel until one of the tabs on the outside lines up with the pickup coil (either by hand or by moving the kickstarter slowly). The gap should be between 0.015" and 0.020", if you need to adjust the gap loosen the two small phillips-head screws where the pickup coil mounts and relocate it, then retighten the screws. If you’re in a real bind, you can use a matchbook cover to check the gap, it’s about the same thickness. Just like adjusting valves on a 4-stroke motor, the feeler gauge should slide easily into the gap with just the slightest drag, it should not be a bitch to cram the feeler gauge in there (that’s too tight!) and you shouldn’t be able to bounce the feeler gauge back and forth inside the gap (too loose!).

You can buy a K&N pod filter kit from any if the sponsors which will eliminate the use if the air box by the filter clamping directly onto the carb. If you ride through water or muddy areas, you might want to consider modifying you air box to assist keeping water out instead of using the pods. As for trimming your plastics, I use a hand held jig saw or a grinder sometimes and then sand the edge smooth and hit it with a flame to gloss the edge. I have heard people on here just using a soldering gun to do it all in one step, but have never tried it.

I used one last season with no issues but will most likely go to steel when this one wears due to what I have heard about durability and not lasting as long as steel.

You could just paint your rears. You can prob have that orange color matched pretty easy at any keystone or auto body paint store. Not sure if you like the race cut rear look but paint holds up just fine since there isn't much surface area which equals less flex.

Just be careful to only cut the rubber that sticks out, nothing else. Keep in mind you still need a flat seal there.

Just cut that rubber lip off that sticks out of the intake boot. That's what you have to do to run V Force 3's. Problem solved!

Your spring is not in the correct groove. Mine did the same thing. It's an easy fix, I wouldn't start is again until you fix it though.

Keep your eye out on here, there have been a few sets come up for sale, I just bought my SB IF Shearers about a week ago off here. Camatv may still have his set for sale, not sure about trade though. I cant imagine many people will trade shearers for T-5's. Good luck, I'm sure you will find a deal like I did soon.

I did Gloss black frame, J arms, and Swinger. Everything else is flat black and it looks sick.

If you are going to powder (not paint) then you will need to remove anything that cant stand up to 400 degrees for 10-20 min.

Looks pretty good to me, you want a ring around the plug to be the thickness of a dime. I would run it. You can always mess with the needle clips to dial it in just a bit more. Here was mine, and I have had no issues since the build a year ago.

You would most likely want to remove everything.

Yeah I will be in the garage tonight. I will do it then.

Rusty, you can modify your oven to do bigger parts. Hit me up and I will tell you how we did it.

In my opinion your best bet would be to just buy the TORS Eliminator kit. I think you would gain a few things by taking to time to install this easy modification. 1) free up space around the carbs that is taken up by the TORS. 2) you will not have to deal with wires, brain, breaking small plastic idle adjustment screws, ect... 3) easier to take carbs out to clean and or rejet for climate changes. 4) makes for quick easy idle adjustments on the side of each carb. There is a catch though, you will have to drill a small hole in the side of each carb in a pre determined spot already on the carb. You will then have to tap threads to put the idle screw in each carb. Really quite simple and kinda hard to mess up if you spend much time in the garage. If I recall, you can buy a TORS eliminator kit with the following components. - new throttle cable with the caps that screw on to the top of each carb where the TORS unit was. -throttle screw for each carb - and even a tap for the correct threads. I believe you will need to furnish the correct drill bit, it should tell you what size and how to do this entire process in the instructions. If not, most of everyone on here could walk you through it step by step in our sleep. Just a thought though, in my opinion I would just ditch the TORS.

Bought a set of Shearer's from him, fast shipping, pipes were in great shape, better than described. Thanks Josh!

Too cold on the sand this time of year for my blood, we will prob go to Little Sahara 3-4 times in the spring starting around spring break time. Hit me up when it gets warmer, ha ha.

Pics please, I am getting ready to goto a longer one.

Yes

They are breather hoses for tranny pressure.

www.farmandsandtoys.com, Jeff is a great guy and many will vouch for him. From what I have read, all of our site sponsors are a good choice, just find the one that works for you. I have a stock stroke hot rods crank I would let go for cheap if interested. It needs rebuilt and when I had my motor done at fast, I went 4mill. If you are interested, I would sell it to you. Just shoot an offer.

That seller is Trinity on that eBay listing. Call Jeff at FAST, he will hook you up.

Call FAST and ask Jeff, he should get you pretty close if not spot on.

I ran my 4mill play/dune ported cyl on stock carbs with no problem last year. Your motor will like the 35 pwk's a lot better but it depends on your riding style to really choose the best carb. I would try both and see which you like better. I am going to 35's this year with different pipes in order to get a little more power out of my motor, but all I ride is sand.

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