andrew3160

Thanks for the positive feedback and a flawless transaction, glad I could help you out!

I'm not saying you don't know what jets are, I am saying you don't know what jets are in your bike. I usually check everything before I start a new machine up, some may say its not needed if the bike is stock. If you are running a stock air box and stock exhaust, chances are your jets are fine. That's not to say you don't need your carbs cleaned though. Take a look at your plugs, kinda curious to see what they look like if you are spitting black oil out of your pipes.

As mentioned above, his bike is stock with stock exhaust which equals no mods. He is new to banshees as stated above, so he prob doesn't know what jets are in his carbs let alone how to find out. I would put money on the packing in the silencers being shot if you still have stock exhaust. Check your plugs and see what they look like.

Matte Black G Force's

I have no experience with the thermo caps but I seen a few guys on here debating the new TTO digital gauges and think I will run one my self. Here is a link: http://trailtech.net/tto.html Pretty inexpensive and a pretty nice setup for what we are trying to accomplish when monitoring the temp of our bikes.

I just powder coated an old set of stockers flat black and they turned out better than the G Force flat black wheels I just bought. I powder at home though, so it only cost me a few bucks in powder and my time. We have painted wheels and they never hold up longer than one ride.

We just did one on my buddy's 3 Wheeler. The pivot bolt should be hollow so that you can drill and tap a hole in the center if the hex head on one side and or the center of the threaded end to put a grease fitting in. Then you can drill a small hole where needed on the actual pivot bolt it's self to allow the grease to come out of the center and lube where necessary.

Welcome to the site, you won't be disappointed. Me and a handful of others are down at Little Sahara in the Spring and Fall often. Great place to ride!

I have a good stock one, not round house I will let go for cheap. Might even be willing to powder coat for ya if I have the color you want. Pretty limited at the moment to red, yellow, flat black, white, and extreme bonded chrome maybe gold as well. I know you want round style, so just disregard this if not interested. Just throwing it out there.

I just bought a set from Jeff at FAST. Give him a call, he will get you set up.

I have +2+1 J Arms from stellar and couldn't be happier.

I was running a 25 pilot and 320 main with pro circuits, pods, and stock stroke basically unported cyl at you elevation in KC. I also agree with Phelps.

I don't have much experience with the uni pods, but I hear the dirt guys like them better in some cases because of their filtering capabilities. Hope you find what your looking for.

60 shipped.

Yeah, I would say that's cheap. Good luck with the find.

I have a set of K&N pods with one ride on them. If you are interested shoot me a PM with offer.

I will sell you my K&N pod filters, like I said one ride on them. All you got to do it clamp them on and go. If you want outerwears you will need to buy them, any site sponsor carries them. PM me an offer if interested.

Yes, you can do this but you will need to re-jet. Why do you want to run foam filters? I will have a set of K&N pods for sale here soon that have one ride on them, possibly outer wears too. I will let you know when I am ready to get rid of them to see if you have bought yet.

In the wanted section on this site.

I would say you are rich for sure. Needle adjustment is not going to make a huge difference, it will just help dial your jetting in a bit more. Post up your mods and elevation and we can help you with the correct jetting.

Not necessarily, If I remember correctly, the ring around the base is just a way to guage your main circuit. I have never really payed attention to the tip of the plug in a chop.

If you want to keep the box and are worried about it melting, go buy some heat wrap and wrap that section of the exhaust. You can buy it at most auto parts stores. Problem solved!

You should not need to do any math, what the meter reads is what you have unless you are on the wrong setting. I would say your stator is bad, but I am not an electical wiz, I just know that everytime I use my meter, it reads true to the actual resistance without needing to do any math. I am sure someone with a bit more knowledge will chime in here soon, I could be totally wrong.

I think you are reading your plug chops wrong. You are looking at the ring at the base of the plug not the tip. You want this ring to be about the thickness of a dime and well defined. Any thicker and you are most likely rich, any thinner and you are most likely lean. When you do your plug chop, use brand new plugs, start the bike and wrap it out through all the gears then hit the kill switch with the clutch in and coast to a stop. Pull the plugs out and put the old ones back in to ride back to the shop to do the chop. Here is another thread that was recently created about this. I would say you are a little rich. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=149773

I have never had to do math when I test for resistance, hope this clears it up. That link should explain everything if you have any other questions. Q#27:How do I use an Ohmmeter to test resistance? A#27:To test resistance, set the meter to “Ohms”, if several ranges are available on your meter select the one closest to what you are looking for. For example, if you’re testing the ignition coil of the stator, set the meter to read 10-100 Ohms. Then touch one test lead to each of the terminals that the wire color you’re looking for is attached to (in the ignition coil example, put one test lead on the terminal for the red wire and the other test lead on the green wire’s terminal), then read the meter to tell how many Ohms of resistance are between the two test leads. When testing resistance, it DOESN’T matter which color test lead you put where, like continuity you are just testing how much, if any, electricity can flow through. In a Banshee application, there are no components (other than inside the CDI) that you can test that will matter which way electricity can flow. So in the example, it doesn’t matter if you put the black test lead on the green wire or the red wire, or the red test lead on the green or red wire, the results will be the same. Again, be careful with the connector terminals and don’t test resistance with the motor running!