andrew3160

Why don't you call redline and ask them? They would probably be able to best describe the upgrade.

It obviously can be done and has been done, but it scares the shit out of me too. I use powder that bakes at a min of 400 depending on color, that temp could be higher.

No wonder he won't write you back... Ha ha. You called him out, would you write back if it was you selling the bike? I don't think so.

I am at a 48 pilot, 158 main, CEL mid. I have not tuned yet though, going to do that in the sand this spring. Pretty sure I can go down a jet size but want to do a plug chop first.

I agree, that's why I am running 35's and shearers now. My motor still made plenty of power with stockers though. I ride dunes only, wide open dunes. His 28's will be just fine, I think coupelx runs 28's on a dune ported motor. He might be able to shed a little more light on the topic.

I ran stock carbs with pro circuits and a 4mil play dune port and it made plenty of power. You don't need power jets either, kinda a waste of money for your style of riding. Bigger motors on Alky benefit from power jets. Your 28's the way they are a just fine.

I think you hit the nail on the head far as mods while it is apart. Everything else you do after the motor is assembled. One thing I would suggest them looking at is your shift forks and replace those if needed. Kevin should already be looking at those. Looks like you will have a fun motor on your hands.

Yes you can run them with out a silencer. You will most likely want to put a 6"-8" piece of pipe coming out of the head pipes though. I don't think you will see any power gains.

I think you will like the 28's just fine for Trails. You want to keep that bottom end.

I have ordered parts from FAST 3 times in the last couple of weeks with no issues.

Make sure to tell him you are from Banshee HQ!

Good choice!

ATF Type F worked just fine for me. Pretty cheap too for when you change it after break in.

Start the bike with the radiator cap off and rev it a little, you should be able to see the coolant circulating back into the radiator. Pretty good indicator it's good unless you hear noise coming from the impeller area.

http://bit.ly/xPI3QF eBay, under 10 bucks new shipped to your door. Not that expensive.

Stick with the J Arns, they are unique. Call Tim at Stellar and have him build you the arms you want. He will sell you everything you need to upgrade to longer arms less a set of longer brake lines. I promise you won't be disappointed if you go this route.

Do you have one choke for both carbs or separate chokes?

They cannot be replaced. Paint is prob the better route or just buy a set of aftermarket ones from steller, can't go wrong there.

Billet intakes angle the carbs up a bit more so the plug on the bottom of your stator side carb bowl can be left in while still clearing the clutch actuator. If your stator side carb has a welded plate where the plug on the bottom bowl use to be, then the upp's are just fine and your carb will clear the clutch actuator. I went with the upp's from Jeff for the savings and they seal and work just fine.

It's almost a game on here now, that one made me laugh Josh, not going to lie. Ha ha

You don't live too far from me, those welds and the craftsmanship of your pegs are tempting me to ditch the nerfs. Awesome job!

Go buy a hex head bolt the size you need. Then use a pair of channel locks and it should do the trick. We welded an old socket on our bolt so a ratchet wrench could be used for more leverage.

Thanks, It looks different again. I cant leave the damn thing alone for 10 min.... I just put shearers on it which are getting powder coated Flat black and longer swinger coming soon I hope.

Ok good deal.

Here are a couple of pics of mine cut with 2 different styles. This was how they were cut with full rears for a whole. This is what I changer to and finished with when I updated my bike. I used a jig saw and sanded the edges smooth, then went over it with a torch to smooth it out.