andrew3160

good choice, I am done screwing with the stock carrier on mine. I will be switching to round when I know I am happy with a +4.

Degreaser and a bucket of soapy water.

I have never had problems with pods falling off except for when I skimped and bought no names. They didn't last one ride before they cracked and fell off. Pick up a set of k&n pods or uni's and you won't be disappointed.

Re-rivet them back on. You can buy a cheap rivet kit at harbor freight or just about any hardware store.

repack them for the sake of everyone else you ride with.

I was running a 360 main and 27.5 pilot with stock carbs and pro circuits on a dune ported 4 mill. Try one more run and pull the plugs. Something doesn't seem right.

I would venture to guess your pilot is rich and you are lean as hell on your main jet. That might explain why you have a weak mid range too. Just a guess though.

I have not seen a chop like that before. Usually you are looking for a ring around the base of the porcelain.

Yeah, that's a big suck! We are leaving Thursday night now.

Call Elka and tell them what you need, they are not going to turn down selling you a product and if they do, I am sure they will point you in the right direction.

Hell of a trade right here! Someone should jump on the deal!

ha ha, he sure did! Can't wait to get out in the sand with them next weekend. I haven't rode it yet since I changed the pipes and carbs.

Call Jeff at FAST, he stocks two different sizes for the 35 mm carbs.

Shipping should not be real bad to Canada. I think Jeff ships worldwide, so he can prob take care of ya. Maybe a few of the Canadians can chime in to shed some light on the subject.

Actually your title says "want to 4 mil." Meaning you could want a 4 mil crank, you have a 4 mil crank and need new connecting rods, want to build a 4 mil cheap, and so on. As stated above you will want an actual 4 mil crank, a cool head or a noss head with cut domes, and increase your timiing. You will need to port your cylinders since your port timing will change with the new crank. Good luck!

Good deal, I am pretty sure I met you at the HQ ride last year. I will swing through South camp on Friday before it gets busy to see whats up. I will be on a blacked out Banshee with Red and black plastics. I was running black pro circuits last year at the HQ ride.

Paid 350 for my shearer in-frames, you can find a good deal if you look hard enough.

That hose should go to the top of your radiator on the opposite side of you cap. The over flow line comes off the barb that is located where your cap screws in.

A few of us Kansas guys will be heading down to Waynoka Friday Morning, March 23rd if anyone wants to join. I know there are a few people on here that wanted me to let them know when we are going I just cant remember everyone. We will most likely be camping in north camp. I have been told it is trx250r.net's meet down there that weekend too. I will let you know if the date changes, but this is what we have all agreed on at this point.

Here is gloss black frame, gloss black swinger and j arms, with flat black accents.

There is another thread on here that shows dyno numbers with Pro Circuits, CPI's, and one other pipe. The Pro Circuits seemed to do great on a 421 Serval. I ran pro circuits on my ported 4 mill stock cyl and that thing ripped with a very usable power band. You might want to consider trying the Pro Circuits first. 28mm Carbs would work real well on a 392 and help preserve some low end.

All I ride is Little Sahara, OK and ran pro circuits on my dune ported 4mill and loved them, hard runner too. Stay with the pro circuits and look into port work.

No

This should help, it was a sticky right above your topic. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650&pid=1281761&st=0entry1281761

You have to take the threaded retainer out then take a socket the diameter of the outside of the bearing and beat it out. I welded a socket onto a hex head bolt the size of the retainer. Some just use a couple jam nuts on the hex bolt to give you something you can grab onto with a socket or wrench. The thread provided should shed some light on this.