gotta_goatsfast

100 plus horsepower? 100 plus miles per hour? A cub will be a little extreme on trails. I chose the new serval setup for my quad because the dynos I've seen of it show a very broad torque curve vs. the narrow cub. Its an option. You won't hit 100hp with a serval (even 100hp on a 68x58 cub requires a good tune and pricey fuel you wont find on trails) and you definately don't want to do 100mph on ANY 4 wheeler with a stock frame and suspension. Hell, I don't feel comfortable doing 75mph on mine, the tires just don't like it. lol Anyway, what type of riding do you do? If you honestly ride your bike in the upper 3rd of the rpm range quite often (7K-10K+) then a cub is what you want. But don't expect it to be much fun below that range.

I ran 30mm OKOs without a single complaint. They are a keihin PWK knockoff. You will jet them using keihin spec jets.

Say no to the boost bottle!

I'll second that! 28mm Keihin PWKs would work well. You could run 35mm PWKs, but thats a little much for a stock stroke mid-range oriented motor. It'll pull slightly more at the very top than 28s but it will bog more at lower rpm and throttle response wont be as crisp as 28s.

68x58mm serval. Call Jeff at Fast. He set me up with all the parts I needed. If money is really easy to come by for you, then look at a powervalved motor!

4mil with some MX porting on your stock jugs.

PM'd

Thanks for a painless sale! Jimmy

What plug style is on the Dyna?

There are plenty of kits to take your banshee from 350 up past 600cc... Using a 58mm stroke crank with 115mm rods and a 68mm piston, you can achieve a 421cc banshee. This is a common setup. Most don't build go this route for the ccs, however. There are other advantages to reap such as triple exhaust ports and extra transfers, better intakes, ect. There are a lot of options here. Vitos, Athenas, Cheetah cubs, serval cubs, twisters, ect... If you do step up to a larger engine I think the CPIs will be your best bet. In a well ported 350, the CPIs will pull much longer and make more power than the FMFs, but the FMFs will probably come on a little sooner. In a bigger set up, the CPIs will only get better. On a side note, why did you send your jugs out to be ported if you plan on running aftermarket cylinders?

FMF pipes are extremely close to T5s. Despite Toomey's "dyno", I think even the FMFs will edge the T5s by a hair. I think even at moderately paced trails you're going to like the CPIs over the T5s. Who is doing your porting and what type of porting are you/they aiming for? I'm assuming your focusing on the mid-top end of the powerband if you are running 35mm carbs on a stock stroke/stock cylinder engine? Thats another point for CPIs.

I've got a set of 21cc domes in great shape with no pitting and clean plug threads. They are off the shelf pro-desing domes that were ran for one year. I'm building a serval motor so I can't really use your 18cc domes, but I'll send mine your way if you paypal me $25. I'm sure you'll want pictures, so I'll shoot you some in a day or two. (I'll have to go to the shop and snap some) Let me know if I've sparked your interest. Thanks, Jimmy

If only the CPIs were small bore... oh well.

Addressing the dyno charts on Toomey's website. You see they cut off the curve at 8500rpm. Had they gone any farther (say 10,000rpm), you would have seen the lines cross in favor of the CPIs. Also, I'm sure the motor had stock EVERYTHING else except for jetting. The CPIs are just too much what they had. Depending on your portwork, you might just see that the CPIs pull harder all around than the T5s. I really don't think the CPIs come on much later than T5s, but CPIs will give you plenty of overrev where T5s just fail after 9-9.5K. Do a search on Tom Borrink's R2 pipes (second gen Rockets). I have no personal experience with them-yet-but the few that have indulged in a set speak quite highly of them. From what I understand is that it has similar top end and overrev of the CPI inframes while edging the CPIs in the mid-range. Going with a 4mm crank will also give plenty of ridable torque from the grunt all the way to the top, but you should be wary that stock stroke ported jugs sometimes cannot be reshaped to maximize the 4mm crank. Its best to send your jugs out to a reputable builder and get a professional opinion first. So, what type of port work has been performed as of now? With decent porting you should be able to run away from any bolt on 4 stroke in a straight line. With a 4mm, you'll be able to run away and hide. And with a cub, you'll be able to run away, hide, watch them pass then do it again all before the finish line. lol

Well guys, I purchased the serval cylinder and all the guts for it... after I get the motor together and recoup some funds I plan on purchasing some chrome R2s and get it all together. When that happens, I will post up if they fit, how they fit, and if there is any modifications needed to make them fit.

cylinders are going out to rjatv. Thanks for veiwing!

Awesome, dude! I appreciate the close ups. I think it will clear the tank... but it will be with minimal clearance. Maybe I can tweak things up on the tank and out on the pipes a little. Or use a little adhesive thermal barrier where the pipe faces the plastic. My tank sits about 1.5-2 inches wider on each side than the stock tank. Basically, where you've trimmed your plastics-on the interior-is where my tank reaches out to. Anyway, thanks again for the pictures. I'll pick up a set of R2s soon and just play with them until it all fits.

The R2s have that much space between the frame and the pipe?

I already picked up two 35mm Keihin PWKs for the build. Thanks for the offer though!

I'm more interested in a lexan cover, but I'll deffinately keep your set up in mind.

You have my attention! Is there a way for me to modify it or bolt on a lexan cover?

Here's a set of cylinders I have for sale. They are still on the stock bore, and have not been ported or carved on. I will include the pistons if you wish. The pistons do have some pitting. The set up ran beautifully before tear down (going with a serval top end) In the pictures, the cylinders have longer head studs (for pro-design head). I can leave them in for you, or pull them if you don't want the studs. I'd be happy to get $220 shipped for everything. Would trade for lock up clutch, longer swingarm, or possibly other items that would pertain to my build. Thanks for looking!

I run distilled water with purple ice... you can use any additive that decreases the surface tension of water. Using purple ice or water wetter will further increase cooling effiency by allowing more heat transfer to and from the water, while still lubricating the seals. Oh, and water is better for the environment! lol

I invested in a 5.5 gallon IMS tank too. I still stop half way through the day to fill up. lol, and I'm working on a new motor (joining the serval crowd) with 35mm carbs... looks like it'll be 3 times a day next year. lol, thats the nature of the beast. The banshees are a thirsty machine. I do notice that when I ride trails that are not challenging or fast paced, I consume just as much fuel. Probably because most of the fuel is unburnt blowing right through the cylinder and into the pipe when I'm below the powerband cruising, where as fast paced trails and races I'm in the powerband effectively burning most-to-all of the fuel turning it into mechanical energy instead of out the ehxaust. Bad news is that installing those PJs will most likely result in equal or worse fuel consumption. Unless ofcourse the bike is running rich now, and you jet the PJs spot on... that could result in an increase.

Guys, I got a response back from a gentleman who was handling Tom's sales. To his knowledge, he believes the pipes will work just fine. He told me Tom would get back with me to confirm. Anyone else have input on the subject? Just looking at the pictures of the R2 pipes, it appears the expansion pipes will come in contact, or dangerously close to the IMS tank. My tank sits below the frame tube and out almost 2 inches, which is right about where people are trimming their front fenders to make room for the R2s.