gotta_goatsfast

youtube key words such as 421 banshee and you'll see.

It would be kind of cool to see the Packers play the Jets in the superbowl... only because I hate Brett Favre and both teams got rid of him.

I use these most often... Screw Drivers Metric wrench set 1/4 and 3/8 drive Metric socket set (pick up a swivel joint) Metric Allen set Dead blow hammer Pliers grease gun Once and a while... 1/2" drive socket set Impact wrench Hammer Chisel Center punch Grinder Sawzall Welder (I prefer TIG) Prybar Chain-breaker For the engine... Flywheel puller Clutch hub vice (Tusk makes one that is cheap and can be used to hold the flywheel also!) Torque Wrench

Use your imagination!

Yep. Ride out to an open area. Swap out your plugs for brand new ones. Start it and as quick as you can go through the gears at full throttle. Then kill the engine, close the throttle, and pull in the clutch at the same time and coast to a stop (with the engine off and not spinning). Put your other plugs back in so that you can get back to the shop or garage. First, look at the plug with a good light source and a magnifying glass. If you see specs of aluminum chances are there is some detonation going on in the cylinder. If this is the case, you need to diagnose the issue. Examples could be lean jetting, poor fuel or too low of octane, too much ignition advance, wrong squishband, ect... Second, look at the ground strap. You should see it change color in the middle. If it changes color close to the tip the plug is too cold. If the ground strap changes color down closer to the threads then your plug is too hot. Now that you've inspected your plugs, you need to cut away the threaded portion so that you expose the entire insulation. From there, you should see a milk chocolate colored ring roughly 2mm thick around the base of the insulation. If it is really dark or taller than 2mm you are running rich. Opposite is true if you're lean. You can find plenty of pictures and similar explanations searching here in the jetting forums.

$3300 isn't too bad. But, first you gotta do is get dual carbs!

You'll get real bored of a YFZ450 then. Banshee's will keep ya awake and focused! There's really no suprise powerband or anything with a 450 lol.

I always knew them bears were queers...

Thats unfortunate, Jeff at FAST has a killer painless setup for $50. Just give him a call or E-mail him...

TDR_50 you make me nervous! lol I tend to rev my bike a lot.

The 421 uses a 58mm stroke where as the 465 uses a 64mm crankshaft. The case will need to be trenched for the 465cc cheetah. A word of caution, please run a search on Trinity Racing. You will find a lot of "honest" opinions. EDIT:Link to CPindustries banshee page... http://cpindinc.com/pub/part_list?manufacturer=3

The only way to dial your shee (or hers) is to do a plug chop and jet up or down from there.

At $150 you can buy both of them, keep one and sell the other for a little profit!

Wow, this turned kinda sour! Thack, you need to understand that Matt is a professional. He knows more about the inside of a shock than most guys know about the inside of a pussy. As he said, the YFZ thing HAS been beat to death. Its a cobbled system that works better than stock... but if you rode a banshee with a properly setup suspension-that costs similar to what most have spent after their "trial and error" YFZ mess-you will find yourself scratching your head wondering "WTF was I thinking". Matt is passionate about banshee suspension (he used to own one).

Wow, thats quite a deal!... if you're a gambling type. For that you get a crankshaft of unknown quality. The crankshaft runout limit might exceed factory specs causing vibrations that will eat bearings. The pins might seperate from the wheel causing total engine damage. Hopefully you get the right pistons, because the seller has some negative feedback reguarding incorrect piston size, scratched or beat up pistons, ect. Also, it appears he has poor communication with his costumers. I really hope nothing goes wrong and you have no questions. I'm not breakin your balls, man. It could provide years of service free riding. But there are plenty of posts about people buying cheap stuff and later regretting it. Sometimes, its just incorrect setup and they end up posting here where people say "I told ya so". Sometimes guys have questions about assembly or additional parts. Since the ebay sellers usually don't know the answer or don't have any customer service, they end up calling around to BHQ sponsors. I think this is rude, since you are requesting their service for free without helping their business. Or, your new stuff could blow apart this summer on a long ride leaving you with a pile of metal and a bike to push home. In your original post, you mentioned two options. Option 2 should be the one you consider. Contact a sponsor here (I use Jeff at Farmandsandtoys.com) with a list of questions and pen/paper in hand. Pick his brain and come up with a solution. He will build your stock crankshaft to be damn near bulletproof for the type of engine you want. He will still get you a great deal on the piston kits, the gaskets, the seals, the bearings, the machining costs, and rest of those little parts. What else do you get? Well, if you choose to build it yourself (its a great learning experience) "free" professional advice is just a phone call away. How do you break it in? Call him. What should you start out for jetting? Call him. Also, a side note on machining. I've seen some of the local places machine jugs without chamfering the ports. I've seen incorrect piston-to-cylinder clearances when bored. When you have a sponsor (who builds banshees for a living) do the work, it'll be as reliable as a banshee can be. After all, no one wants to race a 450r and have that crank let loose at 10K. Thats just embarrassing. lol

matt thats awesome. Mia wive, eh, her vagin look like sleeve of wizard... Really though, YFZ shocks are junk compared to Elkas, PEPS, Axis....

I picked up a 68x58 serval cub setup from Jeff Wendorff at Farmandsandtoys.com (fast racing). He'll get you set up with a complete top end and have it to you in less than a week!

You will most likely give up a little on the top end... but it won't be by much. Just be careful not to suck them bowls dry!

Why do people chose to run other types of oil in their trans when there is a specific TRANSMISSION OIL! Do you run white oil in your lawnmower? NO. Maybe we should all start running 10W-40 deisel oil in our automatic transmissions... See where I'm getting at? The ATF will not extend the life of your clutch. ATF breaks down quickly when overheated. It is tough stuff in an automatic transmission where the clutches and bands slip for a fraction of a second between gear shift and you have a fluid cooler to keep it under 220 degrees. Some people go more than 100K miles without changing it. BUT, feather your clutch to get back into the powerband or drag race a few times under full load launches and you'll soon realise your friction discs glazed over because the ATF is burned and broken down. Honda transmission oil (posted by MattSCESC) is what I use and find myself changing it in the spring and in the fall. Is it more expensive per volume than ATF? Yes, is it more expensive to change trans oil twice a year than ATF every other weekend? no...

Do some research on how a two stroke engine works. (try howstuffworks.com) or youtube possibly. Anyway, when the piston uncovers the exhaust port, obviously the exhaust gases flow out. But, when the piston reveals the transfer ports, all that fresh air and fuel rush into the cylinder. Since the exhaust port is still exposed, some of that fresh air/fuel escapes out of the exhaust. The pipe is tuned so that it forces the fresh stuff back through the exhaust port into the cylinder as the piston closes and seals the cylinder. When your banshee gets into its "powerband" this plays a big role as the fresh air and fuel are now being forced back into the cylinder, burning, and being converted into mechanical energy instead of being blown out of the exhaust. A 2 stroke pipe can be tailored to reflect the air/fuel back into the pipe at different ranges of rpm. Low-mid pipes do this at, well, low to mid rpm. Top end pipes are tuned to reflect air/fuel back into the chamber at higher speeds. Some pipes work better than others in specific areas (Pro-circuits do a better job at low-mid than Bills pipes, CPIs hit just as soon as T5s but pull harder/longer)

Keep saving your money... $500 isn't going to get you much of anything. Especially if you are paying someone to assemble it, also.

Where are the common places air will leak from? I will caution that some might have false or mislead pressure drops due to poor sealing of the exhaust plugs or where the leakdown tester clamps to the intake.

Haha, you and me both brother. I chose the 4 mil cuz I already had a 58mm longrod crank... otherwise I'd have waited for a 10 mil. Wonder how crazy they'll get... maybe a Serval Super Cub with 72mm bore?

And by inches he means millimeters

I agree the steelers will beat down the jets. In fact, it wouldn't suprise me if they are super bowl champs this year.