gotta_goatsfast

Very interested in either of the a-arm set ups you have. Also interested in the PEPs shocks if they work with extended arms and set up for larger rider. I tried to PM you but the screen locked up and remained "grayed" the few times I tried. My e-mail is [email protected]. Please contact me if you have them available and for payment info. Thanks, Jimmy Edit:Right clicking and opening the PM box in a seperate window works, you have a PM.

For starters, I run VF3s and have a machined intake manifold. The VF3s did make for a crisper throttle and seemed to aid the top end (this is coming from a poorly calibrated butt dyno) As for the power increase of my machined intake.... You'll notice similar acceleration gains as you would raising your ass and blowing a fart while dragging. Not much... unless you had tacos and beer. It did however raise the carbs so that they clear the clutch arm and linkages. If you're on a budget and have a steady gentle hand, port the stock cages and pick up some aftermarket reed petals. Use the saved money for other go faster parts. (times like this, its okay to have gentle hands)

huh, so what about those of us who's dick IS the size of a shampoo bottle?

Interested in a-arms and maybe some other suspension components.

So I need to use "fuck" and "shit" and "God damn ass lickin homo" more often?

Yea, bud. If you've had a bad experience by all means let us know your side. It is NOT fair, however, for someone to bash others and tarnish their names because of what they heard. I've had good experiences dealing with this guy. Saying that, I am by no means taking his side in this-or yours. Since there IS a lot of upset members here, maybe its time we get the administration involved and work on a solution. Even if it is an extreme such as removing Minkia from the sponsor list. Because I agree with other members when they say "these bad transactions bring down BHQ's reputation". I don't mean to step on anyone's dick here, but all of you guys who've had a bad deal with him need to do something about it instead of "calling him out". Me, I've never had a bad experience with the man so I can't really bring anything to the table. But if you feel this guy shouldn't be doing business on BHQ, get together and talk to the higher ups. End of story.

If the engine hasn't warmed up yet (the coolant) you're jugs will still be cool where as the pipes will get hot. Your exhaust could be restricted (plugged silencers maybe) not letting hot exhaust gases flow out. Give us some more feedback on what is happening. Because the thin steel of the pipes will heat up a LOT faster than a thick iron jug with water flowing through it.

Easy there killa. If you have an issue with the man, maybe you should PM him and work it out that way before blasting him. You've never dealed with him so you wouldn't know what his business practices are. I've purchased items from his ebay listings and those were all accurate listings and shipping was exceptional. In fact, he frequently reminds buyers that these parts are not new. If the guys who were screwed by this man were to step up and plead their case then go ahead, but come on man, you're flaming a seller because of what you read on another topic.

Any pictures of the a-arms? Sweet prices by the way!

I too will be in the market for +2 +1 a-arms!

Okay guys, maybe we should shut up now. With the economy and all, maybe its a good thing he pays others to the work on his toys?

You have the talent to build a 700hp motor (or maybe you paid someone to build it and you installed the drivetrain per instructions) but you can't jet! Please man, I work 11 hours a day six days a week welding and fabricating. Yet, I still find HALF an HOUR to tune my own bike. Really, I don't care what else you've done (or paid a shop to do). I just don't get why you'd pay $150 to have someone else jet it when you could have your bike jetted yourself in less than an hour... Besides, when you ride somewhere of a different elevation or if the tempurature varies from season to season, you'll have to take it back to that guy (who couldn't jet your bike right the first time) and pay the $150. After all man, the forum is to help banshee owners work out their problems. If you're determined to pay a dude then why are you still here. Why don't you tell that guy about your stang. After all, that guy got your bike running top notch now didn't he? NYbanshee-your bud came here for help. The solution is most likely jetting related. We tried to help him solve his problem. To me, rejetting quick and simple. To you two apparently jetting is horrible, complex, mysterious, and time consuming. But now, I would rather have your bud pay the guy (who screwed up the first time) to try it again.

Well, since you have access to the bike in which the pipes are currently on, take it for a ride. Take note of the power delivery, how hard (or weak) it pulls, its behavior under the pipe, overrev, ect... because what one guy likes to ride might be another guys worst nightmare. I wouldn't want a lightswitch powerband on the trail or in tight technical tracks. If the area is wide open, however, I would be willing to sacrifice the low revs for more top end pull.

Come on man, you claim to have built a 700 horse mustang but don't know how to jet a carb!? I know what its like to build a one off vehicle (347ci/C4 ranger) and jetting the carbs is painless compared to a full performance build, trans build, or supporting modifications to handle that power. With a 700hp mustang you must have an aftermarket devise to tune that EEC-V computer... or maybe you're running a sniper or megasquirt system (which would be the ideal route). Either way, jetting is easier (ten fold) over creating a powerful ignition curve that won't detonate as boost/load/rpm varies. And the fuel tables- adjusting the injector duration, flow, pressure, and fuel timing to make reliable power and an optimal air/fuel ratio all require more brains than jetting. In the time it takes you to load a new program, you'll have both carbs jetted (its true). So, its not fair for me to bust your chops and then leave you hangin, so here's what you do. Since you know the powerband is strong until WOT on the top, you can probably leave your needle and pilot jets alone for now. Pull the bowl off of the carb and remove the main jet. There will be a tiny number on it. This is the size of the current main jet. If you suspect you're running lean (pull the choke, does it run better? Pull your plug and examine the color. Is it bone white) Order a pair of the next larger size, and another size larger than that. If you suspect its running rich (lots of smoke, worse with choke on, black or oily plug) then go ahead and order a few sizes smaller than your current main. Install the new main jet opposite of the way you removed the old jet, and close up the bowl. Install the carbs, check to make sure the slides open/close in unison and ride it. 15 minutes to install the parts, 5 minutes for a warm up ride, and a few WOT runs. So, save that $150 you would have spent on the tuning and purchase a used set of 28mm pwk or 30mm oko carbs!

Read, search, read, search... and when you feel your eyes burn and people start calling you saying "I haven't seen you for days", you know you're half way there! want to know what your banshee engine is doing with all that air? This will explain it. http://www.howstuffworks.com/two-stroke.htm Here's an animation of how two strokes work. Its okay to ask questions, this is what online forums are mainly for. It is, however, annoying for some of the members of a forum to have to explain simple questions or give answers over and over again when one could search a little and answer his own question. My advise is to search and read up on everything banshee and banshee related. Because your first post is hard to understand. Have fun with your banshee!

What was your jetting with the FMFs only and what is your jetting now?

I don't want to disrespect other members but as a seller, money talks. Reading past posts, it looks like you've been getting the run around. But!!! I've got the money and if you want to make a sale just shoot me your paypal info and I'll send you the green!

I've got $215 I can throw at it including shipping to 53502 and paypal fees. PM me your paypal if interested.

Hmmm, I see... do you know aprox. what rider weight these are set up for?

Still have 'em?

Thanks for the help guys! The bike runs top notch now. In a previous post I mentioned what I did to achieve this, and to tell you, the OKO carbs didn't really need too much special attention. I will say that they run rings around the trinity single set up that they replaced. Now, I guess I'll have to give into the peer pressure and send my jugs out to be carved...

Am I looking for air leaks within the intake system or within the crankcase?

Well, the day has been good and the banshee has finally bowed down and surrendered. I played with her orfices and touched her jugs a little.... then kicked her. She screamed and I rode'er hard til she was hot... Oh, I mean I cleaned the carbs, Installed new gaskets between the jugs, VF3s, and intake boots. Float height was adjusted from 24mm down to 19mm and 152 main/50 pilot installed with the air screw 1.25 turns out. There were two existing holes in the fuel inlet casting below the float needle seat that I reamed out to 1.5mm from a 1mm hole. It may be dumb luck, but she runs real hard now. Makes me want to call a few buddies who challenged me (stage 2 440ex and bolt on 660r raptor)and bust their egos. Anyways, the plug chop showed a milk chocolate brown ring slightly larger than 2mm around the base, but pretty consistent. It runs real good so I don't think I'll be straying much from this setup. I think once I get the C4 trans off of the work bench, I'll pull the 350 after riding season and build a +4mm longrod engine? Hmmm, atleast some port work. Which brings me to this question. What is the limits of the stock crankshaft when non welded/trued? What about welded and trued? Thanks for the help guys!

I searched and found a little information on his solution for these carbs. I pm'd him so hopefully I'll get some insight back soon. When it runs hard and then falls on its face like that, would this be a lean or rich condition? It doesn't sneeze through the carbs, and choking it results in a slightly burbly midrange and still the 8000rpm stop. Is it possible this could be caused by an intake leak? Also, what should my float height be?

That was something I considered also. But coasting with the clutch in at idle and then quickly running it to WOT within a few moments and still hitting that "wall" made me think otherwise. Could the bowl empty that quickly? Either way, anyone have info on where, how, or what to drill exactly? I want to exhaust all my options before turning the keys over to a shop.