gotta_goatsfast

Yea man, removing a flywheel with bad threads is kinda like playing butt-darts with a wrestler. No matter how ard you fight it, you're going to be fucked. You can find flywheels on here for under 50 bucks if you're patient.

Wow, that was kind of hard to decipher, but I think I understand what you're saying. I too am building a Serval cub. There is in fact a cost difference between porting (especially a mild port which is less than $300) and an entirely new cast cylinders. But, if your cylinders require new sleeves then IMO it would be a wise choice to purchase a serval as the cost of a port job, the sleeves, installing the sleeves, ect can add up to a new serval cub cylinder. Even the 68x54 serval cub will blow a trail/MX type of port job away. If I remember correctly, you said the engine had Wiseco pistons and a welded crank? So, on the other hand, if your stock parts are in good shape all you'll need is... cylinder hone piston rings port job gaskets And you can do all of that for less than half the price of a new cylinder kit.

First off, I really don't want to come off sounding like I'm attacking a new idea, because new theories and ideas are the only way we can progress in any aspect or area of knowledge and excellence. But, is there really a gain to be had by using the large 250r intakes on a stock cylinder? It sounds like you'll be doing extensive work to the transfers and exhaust, but will it all move enough air that a well ported stock intake (even with boost ports) restrict it? Maybe I'm just closed minded in thinking that welding a 24" culvert pipe onto a 1.5L civic is somehow going to gain power... but maybe you're just going for originality? Anyways, it looks like a sweet project to take on! I enjoy puzzles... especially when I make the pieces.

My wiseco pistons came with instructions reguarding lubrication holes for bridged exhaust ports. It'll tell you exactly how and where those holes go.

Meh, kinda looks like a cheap mexican banshee, lol. I think you should take the money you'd use to purchase a YFZ and use that for some porting and upgraded suspension. If you get enough seat time on your quad you'll run rings around less experienced riders who went out and purchased brand new 450 race quads!

Pulling both plugs makes it easier to kick over... but I always fear that I'll draw in dust through the other hole. I always hold the throttle open when I do a compression test though.

Search for Vito's crankshafts. You'll see plenty of reviews.

...you asked if there was a power increase. In simple terms, if your bowls are running low on fuel causing a lean mixture (if you were running a 1/4 mile asphault quad you might experience this toward the end of your race) and you installed a set of large capacity bowls on an identicle bike (so that the bike does not lean out from low/no fuel on the big end) then yes you would see a power increase. This is the only way that a larger bowl could possibly create more horsepower than a production bowl. But, the dude is retarded because the bowls appear to be NO larger than a Keihin PWK 33/35mm carb. So, I vote fail.

If the bowls were running dry on a production bowl vs. an oversized bowl on that carburetor then yes. Only because your motor is leaning out. Otherwise there should be absolutely no affect of power between the bowls as long as fuel level is controlled at the same float height.

If you were running at full throttle for an extended period of time where the bowl would not be able to replenish the fuel that was being drawn up through the jets, then a larger bowl is desired as you DO NOT want to suck the bowls empty or you'll lean out.

Sounds fair bud. Keep me in mind.

Jeff Wendorff @ FAST racing said upgrading the bearings and additional welding were not necessary for my build. It's a 421 serval. But I'm kind of a hypochondriac with motors. Sometimes when one person has an issue I start to get a little paranoid. lol

Papa, are you using stock hotrods bearings on yours? Has there been any additional welding on the pins? Just curious because I'm rockin all hotrods stuff. I might upgrade the bearings some day though. To the OP, hotrods cranks are a big contendor. Obviously there will be a few that fail. Maybe the bearing support on the cases were out-of-round causing bearing failure? Incorrect install, too much overrev/abuse....

I need 35mm boots for my intake (upgrading from 28mm carbs to 35mm PWKs). Could I interest you in parting with just the larger boots? If so, please send me a price and your paypal! Thanks, Jimmy

If you're going to fight like girls, you should at least know the proper techniques!

...Coming out of retirement for ONE SPECIAL post... Come on guys, stop fighting... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRnIXnBcAAo

Oh, yep dink move there. I should do my research next time.

Hey bud, Could you PM me a view of the trail-tech clamp? Thanks, Jimmy

A chrome plated cylinder bore would not hold up. It would look pretty on the outside though

HAHA, okay I'm done trolling. Its just.... well, its hard to log on to BHQ and read about cry babies and then expect me to treat them like intelligent intellectuals. Although, I've gained a sliver of knowledge from this. I will NEVER consider purchasing or selling parts to you or wannashee.

Check out ROCZ extreme talentzzzzzz.

The only merit to what you claim might be if you bolted both sets of pipes onto a completely stock banshee. If you plan on doing anything else to promote airflow-such as porting-the CPIs will pull harder than the Toomeys EVERYWHERE. I believe you fail to understand this. What I mean is... 3000rpm-lol, you need a 4 stroke if you ride in this range 5000rpm-hold on, both pipes are going to hit any moment 6000rpm-BOTH pipes are building steam. 7000rpm-CPIs are edging the T5s 8000rpm-CPIs are undeniably leading the T5s 9000rpm-CPIs are turning your knuckles white 9500rpm-T5s are signing off while the CPIs are still pulling your nutsack out through your butthole The T5s are kind of a joke if you ask me. They are a bastard pipe that does excell in any area ("ooh man, they sound cool" does not count) Sounds like you want pro-circuits for low-mid setup. In fact, FMF fattys have been proven to pull on T5s by 2-3hp. No offense man, but less than a month ago you didn't know how to determine the volume of your engine or how drive/driven sprocket sizes affect final gear ratios. Now you're telling me how pipes that I've experienced/owned perform? Now, don't get butt-hurt. Everyone learns from the beginning (there was a time in EVERY member's life where they didn't even know how to jet a carb). I strongly suggest you frequent the FOR SALE section of the sight and E-bay for a good deal on a used set of pipes (whatever pipes you choose). If you have the patience, you won't have to drop $500-$600 on pipes. This goes for suspension components, cool heads, carbs, timing plates, ect...

You get what you pay for