gotta_goatsfast

Skid plates are beefy! Thats a great price. I seen you cut a F.A.S.T. grille in another post. That one $60, too?

I would have $aid exactly what J-madd ju$t po$ted. Although porcelian i$ very hard, a cold $hock from coolant hitting the plug could quickly cool it and $tart a crack, which then shatter$. Either way, I blame the coolant being in place$ it $houldn't. $o $wap in $ome o-ring$ and fre$h plug$ and $tart that Ban$hee....$$$$

This is pretty simple... If you have to ask, DON'T DO IT.

I am curious as to how unbalanced offroad tires would tolerate 100mph+. I am equally curious as to how a stock banshee suspension would perform skimming across a dirt path traveling at a modest 100mph+.

...I nominate you for FAIL OF THE DAY

I messaged him stating I was interested in the Banshee and understand the charges paypal adds. I then asked him if I could see the banshee in person, first. Then I could give him his money there instead of mailing it. We'll see if he gives me an address to "look at it" lol

HAHA, its officially the first drag ported serval cub.

Yep, thats the most obvious symptom. Its not worth the $15 and half hour of time to build a leakdown tester to find out before catastrophic failure...

GEEEZZZUUUSSS, back that timing off to 4-5 degrees. Does your motor pass a leakdown test? Have you cleaned the carbs? Checked electrical connections? What are all of the mods done to the engine? What elevation are you riding at? What are your current jets? If the engine has not been tuned and jetted correctly, then it would be pretty obvious that you do this first before trying to diagnose any other problems.

Suspension is one of those areas I don't skimp or rig. I give you credit for riding that thing. We won't let guys ride or race in our group if they do that kind of shit.

Interested in the wheels. Can't seem to look up the part number. Would prefer a .190 or better if they are. PM me some more info if you know it. Thanks!

So guys can't post their opinion? If someone wants to come on here and pretend their mismatched suspension is just as good I would like to offer my EXPERIENCE to others who are contemplating doing the swap. As said before, unless you can get YFZ stuff for super cheap, its much better to run parts made for our machine. To someone who doesn't know any better, $250 sounds great for used YFZ shocks compared to new Elkas.... but if you're going to buy a used shock then my suggestion is you look for a USED ELKA set (which can be found for around $300-$350) made specifically for your machine. I beat up on YFZs at the local tracks (and then beat them at the dirt drag sitting right next to the MX track) with my setup and I laugh because I still have less money in everything I've done than they owe their yamaha dealer... As for longrod, a 250r is apples to oranges. Should I suggest an open country race where my 80+hp quad can actually stretch its legs against your R? See, not fair. But Banshee vs. Banshee a B class rider on MY banshee will keep pace with an A class rider on yours. You REALLY don't know much about the new serval motor, do you? This engine has such a broad powerband that allows me to lug it (so I'm not hunting gears all the time) and wind it out and its happy. It allows me to run a +2 swinger because (as I found out earlier this month) I can powerslide very predictably with the power and tire combo. But out of the hole, that extra 2 inches gives me a huge advantage against 4 strokes that make half the power I do. My point is, I think its unfair to fill someone's head with the false belief that they can have the same performance of a race suspension with take off parts from another ATV. Will it be better than stock? Of course. But for a little more money and some patience, you can find +2 arms and performance shocks used for $500-$700. You think we are rude? If you browse around usually the individuals with a shitty attitude will recieve a shitty response from the rest of us. There are a lot of talented and knowledgeable banshee owners here that, when asked a question, will give an honest response.

I bought 2

For my Ford I use an SCT X3 with a custom program. IMO the preprogrammed stuff is almost worthless compared to someone who can write a tune to compliment other parts such as intakes, exhausts, ect... There is a power difference, but one of the reasones I REALLY like mine is because of how the transmission shifts. Its precise, firm, and really shines when hard on the accellerator or when towing.

This is a hard one to answer because every builder has a different idea of what "playing" is. Some will port your engine to be strong in the midrange, some will port it to favor the mid top, and yet others will try to give you a good broad powerband that does great in most areas but does not excell in any one area. First, you need to be honest with yourself with what you really ride in. There are a lot of guys that post up that want a drag port because they hear it gives them max power but in reality they ride mostly trails and screwing around in private property. Most builders will talk them out of it, because it is going to lead to disapointment. A lot of guys want to ride with their buddies on the trails but also take some of their egos away in a straight line. And they need to understand that a drag port will certainly make full use of the other guys roost protector, its simply not going to work well in any other type of riding. Also, what some fail to realise is that a mid-top ported banshee is STILL going to embarrass all but the very serious 4 stroke in a drag race and still run awesome in most any condition except for tight technical trails which you would benefit more from a wood or MX type of port. In any event, this is one of those converstations best reserved for your builder...

Not the decision I would have made. I would check it over thoroughly first and hope if something does let go this ebay seller has good customer service.

Now you know how we feel when someone posts up they need help with NO information as to what they need help with...

I run holeshot HDs which are 20x11 and with the side bite they have I can truck through ruts by grabbing the side rather than the bottom of them. Some of the guys I ride with gave me shit at first for not using a 22" tire, but when they struggle to make it up rutted inclines and I make good use of THEIR roost protectors flying up it, I think I'm sold!

Once you start porting your cylinders and such, if you listen closely you can hear your suspension wheeping for mercy. Don't neglect the suspension or all that power you're making won't be able to be put to good use on most terrains. Its best to talk to a sponsor about your port work. As long as you're honest with them (don't tell them you want extreme top end if you recreational ride) they'll set you up with nothing but orgasms...

I guess I can't really compare the toomeys to the R2s because I ran T5s on a 350 motor and the R2s are on a 421... but the toomeys were almost annoyingly loud where as the R2s have a sweet smooth sound that won't rattle your brains. Its also got more of a thump or hit to it... but it might also be the displacement increase. Either way, I dont think I'll ever consider Toomeys again as long as R2s are being built.

spark plug, hack saw, and a finely calibrated full spectrum eyeball

Since your needle really doesn't affect the idle, I would do a leakdown test to ensure that the motor isn't drawing air from anywhere except the carbs. I found that running a CEL needle worked best for me. I used them on both my 35 PWKs now and the 30mm OKO (keihin clones) I had.

I've taken windshield washer nozzles and tucked them in the wheel wells. Filled the resivoir with bleach and did some burn outs that left quite a big cloud. haha, high school days...

Did you do a compression test and inspect the rings? The rings are now 180* from what they first started when they wore in to the cylinder.

you didn't disconnect the cable from the carbs and probably filled the carbs and engine full of wd40