gotta_goatsfast

If you're after revenge for a 3 foot difference, make sure the quad is tuned properly and practice launching!

Check eccentric screw for proper adjustment. My money's on worn/tweaked shift forks

Sorry, but the open ended loaded questions like "what gives me more power?" can be answered with a little effort and research. And losing the boost bottle is beneficial to EVERYONE. I think I'd be more willing to answer a common question if it started like this.... I've got a stock banshee with T5 pipes and the toomey filter with tors removed. My elevation is at 1100' and according to the research I should be at XXX jets. It appears to still be running lean. I did a leakdown test and it passed. Can you help me out? Most of the questions however, are more like this.... I got T5s and filter, what should my jetting be at? If guys are not willing to put in the effort to research on their own and just post another topic that is almost IDENTICAL to a previous posted topic, it gets a little annoying giving them the same exact answer. Most of what I learned was by doing research. And when I suggest that someone search the forums, it is for a reason. When I look for information on a product I usually walk away with added knowledge from searching vs. a direct answer from another member. They will learn a lot more by browsing through other topics. End rant lol EDIT: I should add it isn't a BHQ specif issue. Basically every forum that has been around for a few years will experience the same basic questions posted every week. lol

Nitrous... come on man can't you search a little? There is so much information on this site it should keep you occupied for days. Power: Pipes, pods, carburetors, porting, strokers, timing advance, alcohol, reeds, displacement increase... performance: clutches, shift mods, a-arms, swing arms, shocks, tires, chain/sprockets....

There are springs from the factory in the thumb lever housing. I took them out of mine as do some others. To adjust the throttle cable into the carbs, you want to unscrew the adjusters (raising the aduster off of the cap). You want to adjust them so that they are about to start pulling on the slide of the carb without actually moving the slide. I had to order some longer aduster screws (purchased from F.A.S.T. Racing) for my 35pwks. As stated by Larry, shit happens and you might have recieved the wrong cable, too.

Ordered a pair of solid motor mounts and a skid plate. Motor mounts fit like a glove. Skid plate was impressive with thick aluminum and quality welds with a 10/10 fit and finish. I have every intention of ordering some fabbed parts (maybe a FAST flame grill???) from JD in the near future! Great guy to have on our side. Did I kiss enough ass yet? haha, just playin man. I wouldn't say it if it wasn't true!

Porting can add a substantial amount to the top end of the powerband. While you might peak around 8500rpm and run out of steam at 9500rpm, a hot ported engine could turn 10K or more fading. He could also have 2.68:1 drive gears. I'm guessing its the powerbands, though.

I'll most likely upgrade later down the road once this stuff wears out. If this helmet seems cheap I can always use my old AFX helmet. Keep the other for two times a year when the girl rides the trails with me. lol And customer service contacted me today. The boots were out of stock so they upgraded to some O'neal brand boots. I'll have to research the O'neal stuff...

Why be a dick to everyone? You posted a topic as of 3-08-11 stating you have yet to pull the trigger on some arms so there must have been no "sweet deal". Then you also state that you don't buy from our sponsors for a reason (they must not be good???) and then you're looking into Fireball racing and Stellar? Maybe I'm just irritated tonight, but you're coming off as a real fuck head. When members make comments regaurding newbs to lazy to search for a topic that has been covered 1000 times, they're talking about guys like you. Since you have quite a sour attitude, you'll most likely get smart-ass responses from members in future topics.

I like RMATV, but they only price match exact items and they don't carry Ocelot brand equipment.

Search a little more man, they are all covered pretty thoroughly. On a side note, if you're on a budget then scratch the wampus off of your list. No sense on paying more for a cylinder with identical port timings to the cub or serval.

Last year I found myself riding more competitive than recreational. Last year I was pushing the banshee really hard on xc and cc type of terrain. This year I've aquired plenty of aftermarket support for my banshee including a 421 serval with goodies, wider stance with shocks set up for me, and some brake upgrades so my "whoa" power matches the go power. With all of this, I feel its time to upgrade my riding gear. My helmet is worn. Its extremely hot wearing a long sleeve shirt and heavy jeans. I wear work boots which make it hard to shift/brake. So, searching the internet I quickly realised that spending $500+ was probable. Talking to a few of the locals, they pointed me to a website called chapparal-racing.com specifically to their Ocelot brand package deals. I'm posting a link to this for two reasons. I'd like some feedback and/ore opinions on their packages. I'd also like to share it to others who have considered protective gear but are on a budget. The package I personally ordered (for your feedback)... http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Product/ocelot-super-package-deal/PKG-OCELOT-SUPER10.aspx It includes the helmet, roost protector, jersey, pants, gloves, boots, goggles, and some other goodies for under $260. The list of packages (for others to consider)...http://chaparral-racing.com/category/mens-dirt-bike-package-deals

I encourage you to read the link at the end of my previous post, also. There are other explanations that include math formulas and what not, but this one is very easy to read/understand.

No and no. The squish band-although an important measurement-is not the area of the dome you cut to produce more (or less) compression. The combustion chamber (void area around the sparkplug) will be cut to a specific volume. The quish band is simply the clearance between the piston crown and dome. Too little clearance will most likely result in contact. Too much clearance will defeat the purpose of a squish band and cause detonation as the squish band is designed to rush air/fuel away from the perimeter of the cylinder where fuel is more likely to ignite and "clash" with the flame front ignited by the spark plug. That clash between two flame fronts is very violent... detonation. Why is cranking compression (and dome size) only a small consideration to octane requirements? Well, its easier to link you something than to type a book myself. lol so read ME

...a higher octane fuel burns cooler and slower. I promise you.

How much oil did you dump into the crankcase? There isn't a lot of room in there, maybe its just hydro-locked from trying to compress the oil on the down stroke before the transfers can open? Anyway, its a good idea to disassemble the engine and look it over.

Unless it is oxygenated.... no. If you are used to running 93 octane pump fuel and then switch to VP110 for instance, there will be no increase in power as the higher octane generally means a slower and cooler burn.

Pull the clutch cover off. Sounds like the shift detent spring is broken. It is the spring that returns the shift shaft to its original position.

Little far for me to attend in person but I look forward to the media coverage!

I would have to say the same exact thing. An override does not make the quad an automatic. Back load it or downshift it often and she'll still find herself sitting at home while you all ride. lol There are plenty of introductory level sport quads available now, but there is one that has been around and you should be able to find for cheap... and that's the honda 250ex. Its lightweight, nimble, reliable, and sports a 5 speed auto-clutch. Using a centrifugal clutch, she only has to concentrate on selecting the next gear. The aftermarket has dabbled a little in the 250ex platform so there are exhaust and intake options out there for later. The polaris scramblers (and other polaris quads) are junk IMO. They use a McPherson strut suspension which sucks. They are heavy and high centered. And they seem to always have problems whether it be the drive belts or the motor or the mile of chains they use. Anyway, good luck!

You're rich. But, its okay. Pick up a pair of main jets 158, 155, 152, 150, and possibly 148. Read up on plug chopping to diagnose your jetting. Work your way down one jet size at a time while performing a plug chop to monitor a rich/lean condition until you find the sweet spot. I would also pick up a 50 pilot jet. Leave your mixture screw as is for now. My guess is you will end up with a 152 or 155 seeing as you live in Canadia and the weather is nice and cool up there. It will be nice to have those smaller jets because when it warms up in the spring/summer you'll end up re-jetting and you'll most likely be at a 150 or 152.

You're not alone in this universe. May I present.... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133195&hl=minkia&st=0

Its only a recommendation. If I had a choice I would pick 1" of space... but I've only got so much to work with. lol

I've never lost a filter. I just clamp it down until its firm on the mouth of the carburetor and not worry about it. Maybe the flange on your pods are simply too large? I believe the rubber flanges will reduce about 3/8" in diameter of their natural size. After that you're prone to poor clamping and air leaks.

Are you going to post a thread asking how to FIND your "item"?