Ray J Neal

No, old basket still. $$ is tight right now, all expendable income has to go toward marketing my shop, since we are still new.

Well it's back together now, I figured I would put a video up on the noise.

Are you kidding. I guess being a Master ASE tech I am a bit too technical for you?

Not to jump in and hijack this thread, but I've battled high temp issues as well. Not to the point of boiling over, but checking with an IR temp gun, the head reads 220-235 and I shut it down. I've had the cover off and checked the impeller as well as the nylon drive gear. I'd like to take it a step further and SEE the flow for myself. If I remove the large hose from the radiator and cap off the radiator, would I be able to see the flow that way? The large hose to the head is very hot, and the lower hose from radiator to water pump is quite cool. I mean c'mon, the radiator can not be that efficient.

If only some people knew how to read as good as they knew how to be a condescending smart ass. My question was if I cut it (with a grinder, place in a vise and drive the pin out) with the suspension at rest, suspended or loaded. This will affect tension, you know. Anyone, for the rest of you who gave decent advice, I got it finished.

Like the title said, I need to cut the chain, how am I doing it? Regardless of what I added, I have an overize chain. I figured that was obvious. But yes, it has a +10" swinger, and a drop.

Hey guys, everything finally came today so I can finish the stance of the Shee. Should I sit on the banshee to have the suspension at ride height and ratchet strap the grab bar to the axle, then lay out the chain and cut? Or should this be done with the suspension relaxed, or completely unloaded? Sorry guys.. -Ray

Canceled the DID x ring order, pissin' me off. Said in stock, and when I called they're waiting for it to arrive to them so they can ship it to me. I saved myself $100 and ordered this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ATV-MX-Motorcycle-Drive-Chain-520x150-520-x-150-Link-/250710906312?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5f88d5c8#ht_1075wt_941 Anyone think I should be scared of a cheaper chain? If it seems ok, I will order a few more of them. BTW, here she is so far..with my shops name photoshopped in -Ray

My point is this. If your vehicle operates between 180-215 (what you see on the instrument display), if you shoot the top of the cylinder head with an IR thermal gun, the reading will be higher. Measuring temp at the top of the Banshee head, what would be acceptable. Maybe next time one of you is out riding and sees their water temp (by gauge) around 190-200 or wherever you prefer it, take a reading at the cylinder head. I am curious.

What I am getting at is when you say 180, you're talking water temp, right? So you're actually over 200 at the top of the cylinder head. That's what I am asking. Anyone able to give me an acceptable temperature when measured at the cylinder head?

Then the guys who are running inline water temp gauges say they shut down around 220, are actually reaching much higher cylinder head temps.

I was checking on the side of the head, next to the spark plug. Possibly my readings are way off.

I just had a revelation. I am getting my temp readings (200 @ idle) with a thermal gun pointed at the top of the cylinder head. 200 at the head is not the same as 200 degree coolant, correct? Where are you guys getting your readings? I assume a gauge placed inline with the flow of coolant?

The o-ring looks fine, but I'll go match it up at the hardware store. It wouldn't be good to have coolant enter the gearbox ATF!

Stock clutch basket bushings can't be replaced correct? And the billet will have replaceable bushings?