FrankieSquid

Color looks good, what color combo are you gonna go with, and where did you find a a frame for that cheap. I bent the shit out of mine and need a new titled frame.

Race cut plastics is more of a visual and personal preference, but I usually say they are more aerodynamic less drag, weight and saves on gas. Those words are usually deciding factors for many of my riding friends, which is probably a bunch of BS.

You can look for excessive play in the joint, or if the boots are badly torn. If the boots are torn I would usually replace them because that can cause dirt and moisture to seep in causing them to wear pretty rapidly. I would hate for a ball joint to come apart at high speed due to a bad judgment call.

Wtf. Looks weird

I will place a order from toomey for the cores. They did feel lighter than expected. Lol. I guess the extra fmf packing will come in handy. Thanks guys!!

Hey hq, now I just bought a nice clean set of t5 from chambers to canisters. I was in the process of cleaning em up and replacing o-rings. When I took apart the canister to check on the packing I noticed they had no core or packing. I'm sure its stupid loud if ran like that. Would I have to add a new core and packing or does anyone run it like that?? Thanks.

I'm with loco, if people want ur shit they will take it. Before we purchased our home we lived in a nice low crime neighborhood. Still these little fucks tried to break into the backyard were I had my bike. Now I have my dog and a mossberg, good combo if you ask me. The more you can delay theives the better chance you have.

Any sets left?? I was intereted in the blade style hangers.

well I haven't done a stator test in a few years, but I do know that if the GREEN and RED wire show open or grounded the stator is done. But its been a while. Do you have a manual? It can be the best 20 bucks to spend. There's someone with more specific knowledge than me about stators, they'll chime in soon. Good luck.

It is possible to do it your self, but you have to know what you are doing. The only thing I've done was just polish the exhaust ports. Like loco said too many thing can go wrong, just my opinion I would just send them out. I would pay once and know from a reputable builder that its done to my riding style and done right.

I would agree. I always like to think ahead. Even though your plans won't require you to weld the crank, at least it will be done so if one day you want to jump into more serious hp making mods your crank will be able to handle it. Like said before, you will have the peice of mind and insurance that nothing comes apart.

What year is your bike? Newer shees came with light/brake light. The bike I have had a regular light but later added the working brake light to it. What you will have to do is see if someone clipped the wires for your headlight/tail light and re route those wires. Whip out the manual and start wire searching, hope there's a chance they just un plugged it. Just look for snipped wires and test with a volt meter to confirm. Good luck

Makes sense, I tend to over analyze shit. Thanks Guy

Sup HQ. I just finished adding new bearings and seals to my (stock) carrier. Is there suppose to be some sort of dust covers on both sides. Right now I have the big spacer in the carrier then the bearing and followed by the seal. Is there something (dust cover) that goes between the sprocket hub and the seal, as well as somethin between the brake hub and seal. Thanks.

Forgot the one where he was asking for offers first before pics were shown. The CL ad is on here somewhere, fckn epic.

i always liked the orange and black theme. now i have a chance to do so with my new build. im going with a dormant orange powder. frame is going orange with cases and gloss black suspension and some polish to balance everything out. plastics i might go with orange with black tear graphics, at least thats the idea fir now. i will post pic but right now i have everything bead blasted so it will be a few weeks untill i do.

I always like to start with a bone stock shee if possible. Having to own some elses work is no fun IMO. That way it gives you a chance to build and tailor to your needs and riding style. Goodluck and let us know what you end up with.

Has to be a jetting issue, make sure you have waterflowing. I ride in some 100+ weather all day and never had overheating issue.

Damn why is everyone getting so worked up over petty sh*t. I see from both point of views. When you have neighbors it is common courtesy to keep shit quiet, whether its a bike or a car. I'm lucky to say that both my neighbors are atv enthusiasts so they don't mind when I have my bike or car idling. But again common courtesy, I don't be revving the crappy out of it.

Damn that is some good painting. Sorry if I missed it but what clear did you use again.

Welcome

Last I heard there was a track built for drags out by sir drag strip. Never been there myself. I appreciate the welcome guys.

Hey what's going on everyone. Well I have not been on here for little over a year. If you all don't know I had my shee stolen around a year ago. She was my pride and joy and a hellava ride. I'm happy to say I'm starting a fresh new build again and happy to get my 2stroke fix again. All you site sponsors you will be hearing from me soon lol.

Bulldog is a good promoter, used it a few times on bikes i had painted in the past. The one that Duplicolor has is actually pretty good. Gives the paint a smooth finish.

Im actually in the process of doing that right now. I bought a new master a few weeks back from a shop in Tucson AZ. It came with the banjo bolt that has a brake light switch. Now i also ordered the brake light switch that goes to the rear brake pedal. I want to have working light with both brake levers. The parts came from a 2006 banshee. I think thats the year they came with brake lights. My shee is a 99 so it did not come with it. Wiring is very simple. Im in the process of wiring them inside the tubes through the frame, personally i hate seeing wires and gives it a cleaner look. Banshee's can do so much when it comes to electrical. Unless you have a DC conversion you cannot add too much lights, it will result in too much draw. Im using a LED tail light that has a function of a brake/tail light. On Ebay you can find the brake light switch for both levers. The one for the front master cylinder i think is 1.25 pitch pressure light switch. Runs you a few bucks on EBAY. Let me know if you have any questions.