Larry's Shee

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong . From what I see from dyno charts from the linc, twins make more power and torque from bottom to top, plus the single has a serious "vally" in T at about 5-5500 rpm. The way I look at it is if you can't tune 2 carbs you need an EFI 4joke

Now look at the other piston at TDC, does it stick out 2mm, and is your head gasket 2mm thick?

Also post length of it. Center of eye to center of eye

Got two extra large corncobs if you'd like

Clean carbs comepletely, don't just give them a quick douche and call them clean. Have to take everything apart. Set float level. Syncronize carbs. Adjust air screw. Clean carbs one at a time as parts are different. Don't forget to replace choke crossover tube. Also check pick-up gap at both nubs.

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/pre-mix-ratios-myth-facts-read-14935/

No different than any other social situation, where and how do I fit in. As to parts purchase, or anything really, the internet is a wonderfull tool. Even tho the search function sucks here, it doesn't prevent manually scrolling, or just reading ongoing threads , within less than a month you can learn what works and what don't

Depends how far from piston face the sensor is

By the time you fuck around cobbling shit you could just buy something that fits or modify stock. Double up stock pegs add kicker, SS pegs from Richie Metals.

They won't work with stock arms. But for the price it's a killer start for some good suspension.

What did the plugs look like when you took them out? Possibility wasn't jetted for pipes. Might need air filter cleaned. Might need carbs cleaned. If they are stock carbs, do them one at a time as some parts are different. Could also be carbs aren't synced or one slide isn't opening all the way. BTW, welcome

Good luck with that shit, last set I saw was sold in 32 min after posting

See, you failed to give him a linc for Google search, but at least you looked

It's the "Now Generation" thing. I want my answer now, I don't want to work for it, and you will tell me EXACTLY what jets I need to run WITHOUT spending time or money on a plug chop and get off the shout box and do it now, cause I'm brand new here and you guys are dicks for ignoring me and my total of 11 posts. rant off

Way ahead of you WC John : http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Alba+Racing+adjustable+Banshee+CDI Maybe next he can buy some "Good Shit" from Minkia38

This is what I used http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/TOUGH-GUY-Stainless-Steel-Scrubber-2NTH9?Pid=search Got them free, but simular product at Dollar store lots cheaper. 6 per FMF can packed tight, nice tone, will never have to re-do

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23546 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99361 Because set-ups vary so greatly it would be impossible to have a chart. Even two identical Banshees sitting next to each other might have different jetting. As to elevation even bone stock would probably need bigger at sea level, and smaller in the mountains. Then there is the temperature factor, bigger in winter, smaller in summer. Biggest thing is start on the rich side and work down. Plugs are cheaper than pistons.

be sure not to mix slides and float bowls, they are different from left/right

Just measured a quarter, about 2mil. Did you do a comp test before tearing it down? Is that head gasket solid or multi layer? Wonder if adding gasket was red neck deto fix?

How thick does the base gasket look? Never seen a head gasket used with cool head.

Page 147 Clymers Manual, con rod side clearance .0098-.0295, con rod small end free play .0142-.0386 (side to side "tip")

At TDC, do the pistons stick up about 2mil, at the edge?

My son's is an unported 4mil, 2mil head spacer/gasket, kinda like having cut domes. Not the fastest, but he loves it,FMF signature pipes, great trail set-up

Is that copper gasket about 2mm thick?

Don't laugh, I did it and it works, unless rubber on needle valve is shot http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/easy-almost-free-way-stop-leaky-carbs-33335/