Jump to content

Larry's Shee

Members
  • Posts

    4,928
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by Larry's Shee

  1. Did you set float level? Stock pipes?
  2. Maybe a pic of what you got going on?
  3. If you have money to burn, give it to me and I'll come ohm that shit out. Really tho, can get an ohm meter under $20, and go at it. Everything can be checked but the CDI All the specs are somewhere on the forum, or in a Clymers manual. ZCould be something as simple as a bad ground or you forgot to turn thg switch on.
  4. I don't consider 40hrs recently rebuilt.
  5. Seafoam won't disolve dirt, plus some passages are for air, but get dirt in them.
  6. Don't keep us waiting, what was the issue
  7. So is that $200 cover everyting labor wise? Just split cases and R&R crank and you install cyl? Sure hope they're replacing every bearing in crank + new rods. Let us know if they hit you with "extras" at the end.
  8. Have to measure inside of end that goes in boot. Plus 40mm Micunis wouldn't have a choke crossover tube. Would be individual chokes. Dare say stock carbs are the only ones you'll ever find with only one choke knob/lever (on a bangshee)
  9. Might want to check that plugs are dry, and see if you have a nice blue spark. Don't know if it was running with the 260s before, but what's the reasoning of fucking around with the wrong jets?
  10. Junk the boost bottle before it causes more problems. It will crack the intakes and cause an air leak = BOOM Float bowls on correct carb?
  11. Gotta have thick skin around here. Shit don't get sugar coated, or made P.C. Ricky Stator is shit. Quality challenged is the PC term I guess. As to the lowering kit, more fucking shit. IF you actually read the description most all say not for jumping. Buy the right parts the first time. Buy once, cry once, save a ton of money, grief, and time.
  12. Nope, just like that but on front of bowl, that is if they are stock carbs
  13. Unplug TORS brain, left frame by tank, 3wire plug???
  14. Don't overtighten reed screws, make sure float bowls are correct. Left/choke side has little "BB" on front of bowl. Cutaway of slides faces air box (slides can go in "wrong" carb) Sync slides.
  15. Been running a Vito's key for four yrs, no fucking problem. Had it not been with extra parts when purchased, probably wouldn't buy one, slotting plate is free.
  16. One nice thing is the blaster cases don't have to be a matched set. Tou need both sides? Be aware they are getting harder to find.
  17. Consider checking this out : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dq9dxbl9R5g he also has other good vids.
  18. The "BB" is on the front outside. It's how they plug outside of hole when drilled at factory, part of the choke/enrichment circut of carb. Not sure how it would work if both carbs had a left hand bowl.
  19. yep, one of these times it will rev to the moon, and if you aren't quick, it will melt or blow up before you get it in gear, holding brake and stall it out I'll vote for leak test too
  20. You can also use PVC plumbing caps, don't need no stinking crossover. As to float bowl, left one has a small "BB" on the front of it.
  21. Was hoping you'd say you got rid of the bottle It will cause cracks in the carb boot, then you get an air leak. Then your new shit goes BOOM !! Choke tube on? Slide cutaway facing air box? Float bowls on correct carb? Carbs synced? Float level? When carbs cleaned could see through jets? Same size jets in both carbs? No mous nests in exhaust?
  22. go through all the wires and connections and switches
  23. LMFGTFY http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1994-yamaha-banshee-350-yfz350f/o/m146411#sch134093
  24. So, what did you have to replace to fix the b bottle leak?
×
×
  • Create New...