Larry's Shee

What was your first clue ? LOL If it went through a translation program .......................... it leaves a lot to be desired on this end

New guy post whoring. Key came with shee, .................. will not change.

You jus tnever know what you're gonna get. Have to start a thread about the $600 wonder my son just got, lol.

Not to mention the fact sleds have fuel pumps and Bangshee is gravity fed, so you may need float needle valves, maybe even seats

Are arms even set up for that long of shock? Used works can be had for cheep. Making a nose heavy pig light in the front isn't easy, extended swinger doesn't help any. Consider a -1, -1 1/2, -2 swinger.

Well, ................ duh. Was mostly a challenge to joshassclown, lol. And the fact I've seen lincs for high comp pistons before, which I know is boggus. By the time you got any meanful gains on comp your squish would be out of this world. Ever wonder what the squish shrinks to under operating conditions? Expansion from heat, the tiny bit the rod strecthes as it comes to a halt at TDC?

DEEtroit fuggly fucker. http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/snw/5054771818.html

Has anyone ever actually measured different pistons to where they could say "Yeah, a brand X piston is .xxxx " taller than brand Y piston" ???? Isn't compression primarily changed with dome size?

first thing I would do is try a different tester, if nothing more than to double check comp. Measure cyls and pistons for wear and clearance. That will be a big factor. Before you tear it apart do a leak test, as the large jetting may be masking a air leak. You'd hate to get it together andthen find a leak and have to tear it back down.

Type of oil, is engine warmed up. Unless you're getting ready to race you shouldn't be revving with clutch pulled.

Cool, now I only feel half as bad, LOL

All I have to say is WOW Should have bought a Clymers repair manual and some clues first. Do you even know how to measure ring end gap correctly? If you remove piston from rod you need new pin clips. Sorry, but I just don't see a 7k build there.

Shouldn't have called you dumb ass, sorry. I didn't look close enough at posters name. I thought it was that cluless fuck assclown joshstevens.

What a dumb ass. Everyone knows you put one on each side , get best of both worlds.

Just like you josh, Lights on, no one home.

Do them one at a time as some parts are specific to that carb, but will fit on wrong carb, then will be trying to sort that mess out. Be sure you can see through main and pilot jet. Pull main jet holder/emulsion tube, little holes on side of it. Make sure air will blow through all passages. Set float height very important !! Write down main and pilot sizes, you/we will need to know later. While carbs are off, you are halfway to doing a leak test (hint)

Even bone stock ya gotta give 'em some juice to get going. Start modding at all (pipes) it just gets better. It's all about the rush. 2 stroke= scream 4poke= tractor BTW, someone will tell ya to get rid of the bottle.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/content_customer-solutions_tsc-ship-to-store.html?cm_sp=20150520-_-GLOBAL-_-Store_Event_Free_UPS_Ship_To_Store

Ya don't say? Seen tires in the junk yard with fewer cracks.

Some delete the overflow bottle. There would have been a hose from rad to bottle behind air box. Then another from bottle back to and up over steering hoop. Vent from trans goes over hoop also. Stock, it has vent from clutch cover T-eed in, tho some delete that also. When you tear carbs back apart, clean them pussy clean. Set float level, start with air screw 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. Do you still have the TORS brick on top of carb? Is so, that is where the idle screw is, if not, it will be on sid eof carbs. Go to FMF site and see if there are any recomendations on jetting. Kinda sounds lean, especially if you have aftermarket air cleaner or no air box lid. BTW, you can sync carbs closer for now either by sight or feel. (that's all I do, lol)

IIRC, said it "kinda" wants to do 3rd. He's in the middle of a 3/4 day bachlor party, hard to get intelijent info out of him, lol

My son's '03 Silverado SS lost 3/4th gear on the way north fri. 130k miles, fluid/filter changed last spring. No bang/clank/grind, just stopped motovating in 3/4. Is there a "common" issue on these, or even an "easy" fix such as selenoid? Or is he fucked?

Didn't mention how it ran with the 340 mains. They may have been masking an air leak.

Try unplugging Tors brain, left frame rail by gas tank, 3 wire plug.

Actually cyl isn't junk, but repair costs may not be worth it.