Larry's Shee

60 to 100* is to much of a difference to not rejet, IMO. Have you leak tested?

Snorkle on? Lid on? Or holes in lid? Any recomendations on K&N web site?

Unless you know how old the crank seals are, replace them. Set the shaft/gear cluster on wood blocks with a gap between for rod, use drift punch and tap it out. That doesn't mean wail on itwith 2lb sledge.

A "good" shop would not bore without pistons in hand so it could be finish honed to correct clearance. All that's needed in intake is nonpolished tecture, but should be symetrical regardless. IMO 120 grit is plenty rough enough.

Stock cyl ported for 4mil? What style of port?

What "style" was the porting? Do you still have that engine?

Anytime you change amount/how the air moves in or out of engine you have to change the amount of fuel. Pods flow more.

That's a joke son, a joke. Are the axle nuts on other side tight to sprocket hub? Are carrier brgs fucked?

What's your opinion? It's fucked, sell or part out.

KOC porting : http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/portingtemplates.html

How the fuck you dent it there like that? Are fatboys spark arrested?

Amazing, when all the parts are where and how they should be, fucking shit actually works

Good place to start is with a manual.Tells the order bolts should be loosened/tightened. If you don't have a Clymers, should get one, or find the PDF on here.

What are air screws at? Will it idle? At what point does it bog out? IMO, still lean on main jet. Ditch the boost bottle yet?

Did you do a leak test after assembly? What else have you done to diagnos? Ohmed elec, caps/coil seperate?? Swap plug wires? Freshen end of plug wires? With proper puller remove flywheel. Clean any rust off stator poles/inside Fwheel. Clean timing "nubs" on outside of fwheel, set gap to .018" , clean pick-up coil. Check all conections for clean/tight, maybe add di-electric grease. Make sure coil mount is clean, bare metal.

To much slack, no idle screws, slides slam shut?

DEEtroit abortion http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/snw/5089313272.html

Don't know how "special" the O-rings are, but would imagine they'd have to be high heat. Maybe someone has a size they can post. Maybe take the pipe with you to auto parts or such, and with knowing outside dia. of the exhaust you could find something. Ya, you could order some from FMF (or anybody) but might be fall before it clears costoms, and cost ya 10x as much. As to the PVC caps, I just took a boot to the hardware store and found the best fitting piece I could. Was actually grey, might have been in the electrical conduit section. Leastwise here water lines are white and elec are grey. I should have cut them a bit for length for a cleaner look. I did this because the boost bottle was starting to crack the boots, not enough to need new, but still.

IIRC just flywheel puller so you can get stator plate off. Never heard of a clutch "puller".

Have you considered cleaning the carbs, checking float level, cleaning air filtr/

With the way an expansion chamber works I doubt you could. Hell, even if you spun the engine at the projected power peak you might not see anything.

So, which one do you feel is best, or at least which to stay away from?

Don't let idle for long, may load up with fuel/foul plug plus no air mvement may overheat. Blip throttle to keep it cleaned out. Yes on O-rings in pipes, they need to seal well. I used some PVC caps that fit in the boots. Installed with 3bond and clamps. Don't really need crossover. Spooge coming out is from excess oil. May take a while to burn it out.

don't need no stinking crossover

So basically anything over idle? Did you sync the carbs? Slides in correct carbs?