Larry's Shee

Lighting coil is sepreate. I had to pull flywheel and clean poles on stator to get good spark.

Welcome!! Clean carbs real good. Do one carb at a time, they're different. Make sure choke tube is going from one carb to other(small rubber hose, 3in long) Make sure angle "cutaway" of carb slide faces air cleaner.

Thats already in also. Have to admit I tore engine down in a hurry cuz my son flipped it into a deep mudhole. Mud ran out when I pulled L. jug off. LOL (cry). Possibly extra fell into package? Maybe I'll call Vitos tomorrow and ask them, thats where I got kit from. Extra parts just as bad as not enough LOL. Just went through complete parts diagram on websight, no luck. Thanks for the help.

Nope, to small. Plus I already put that one in.

Bout half way between Detroit and Flint.

To bad I don't live in Wichita. Just about to put clutch cover on after complete disasembly. I wondered why there wasn't one, If Blaster owners ditch injection because of the gear. What's the projected cost? I'll test one and pay the ride. LOL

Seeing that we're playing name that seal, what is the real small one in a seal kit for, about 1/4 id, 7/16od, 3/16 thick. ID is just little smaller than pump shaft.

Did you have any luck yet finding what you need?

What kind of oil you using? Could be warped plates, or basket is worn, grooves in basket fingers.

Some parts of the Michigan Cross Country Motorcycle Trail uses county roads, require license plate.

If it's leaking around shaft, you need new seal. Thread screw into seal (not to far) pull it out with plyers. Check that shaft isn't scored/grooved, lightly sand with fine emery cloth if it is. Pop new seal in.

Welcome!! I'll leave suggestions to those that know more. They'll probably want to know what type of riding you'll be doing.

We have both expansion plugs (inner) and rubber caps that use hose clamps (outer). Maybe you could fashion something yourself. Don't know what to tell you. I was being facicious (sp) , poking little fun. Mostly cuz you were on a time deadline. Good day!!

You must think everyone here (US) is stuck up or something. I would presume that plumbing is standard (US-Brit) (maybe not sizes but application) therefore a home improvement store, hardware, or aplumbing supply house should have what you need.

Are you saying that you got it rebuilt and it blew up already? Or is this concerns from the original teardown? Btw unless the "couple people" have expereince with engines, 2-strokes in particular, don't pay attention to them.

Couldn't find pressure spec in Clymers, but 22lbs. sounds kind of high. Excess pressure can cause all kinds of problems. A seal designed for say 15lbs might not hold 22. I've seen car radiators bow out on the sides from excess cap pressure. The only benifit from higher pressure is the coolant will boil at a higher temp.

Lower joint yfz 450, all ballz, $20, right taper for spindle. Just my .02.

First off I'm glad to hear you have it torn down. According to Clymers manual connecting rod small end free play is 0.36- 0.98 mm or 0.0142- 0.0386 inches. Just seen last post your "guy" is full of BS!! The amount that you are boring, is not enough to make a difference. Did you buy a Clymers manual yet?

Mio, Mi., Bull Gap, Maltby Hills, Mack Lake, Meadowlands (W/of Mio; Luzerne, MI.) Most trails Tight, twisty. X-2 on DNR web site. Many motels in Mio, not sure of "cabins" also excellent canoeing. Now legal to ride on county roads, but NOT U.S. Forestry roads Unless already part of marked trail. Been legal to ride from trail-head into town for fuel for long time, think you had to walk across Hwy in town. Use U.S. 23 to avoid Detroit.

WTF, you ain't got no motor in it.

As piston travels down on powerstroke, intake charge is compressed in crankcase and forced into combustion chamber when transfer ports are opened up. As piston travels up on compression, it also creates a vacum in crankcase sucking in fresh fuel/air charge. With a blown gasket it will also suck straight air without fuel/oil mix into crankcase,causing EXTREME lean condition, causing sputtering, causing melted piston, dry bearings, causing catastrofic engine failure. PLEASE do not run it until you fix the gasket. A complete top end gasket set will cost you about $20, 2 base, 2 reed, 1 head gasket. A CLYMERS manual is $25-$30. Someone on here has a video/ moving drawing of a two stroke in his signiture, shows what goes on with a two stroke with a chamber. It will also force air /fuel/oil mix out of blown gasket .

244, where are you located? Maybe someone might come by and give you a hand. Get yourself a CLYMERS manual also.

1st. sentence was ment to be funny. 2-4 WERE'NT covered in this post. They MIGHT have been in his OTHER posts. 5th was also ment to be funny, can't think of the comedians name but it was supposed to be a take off from his lines- " you might be a redneck if ...... " Just poking a little fun at the man to just pull it down and figure out whats wrong with his shee, thats all. I guess I won't give up my day time job.

I use my X-ray goggles I got on E-bay, $29.95 w/shipping. Or you could take pipes off, rotate engine so piston is at bottom dead center , and look in cyl. Rotate engine to inspect side of piston (rings&skirt). Repeat for other cyl. If you have a post for sucking (blowing) gaskets, and one looking for piston kits, SHEE MIGHT BE BLOWN.

If cases are split verically, no. Run a screw (or two) into seal and pull out with plyers. Be carefull not to run screws to deep into bearings.