Larry's Shee

First one needs at least a grand , second not bad, last not bad depends what "a little" work means.

Muddy water leaves the dirt after it dries wether in plug connections or switches. Trim plug wires 1/4 inch reinstall boots. BTW, while you have connections apart put die-electric grease in them.

Do a compression test, in the mayhem might have over-reved and bent a valve .

Highly doubt that is tig welded. Tig could weld with little to no filler rod, plus it looks more like stacks of dimes. I would do nothing but send it back. Are you willing to out the supplyer? Might save others some grief.

X-2 on being ok. Mine was like that from a previous problem. Sand it down in case there are any burrs that might come loose later. Didn't even know it had a 4mil , course neither did the PO.

Remove the cap from top of carb, just below tors "box". should be locking tab held by phillips screw.

start rich and work your way down. I'm 250 with only filter and reeds at 1000'

I love the smell of bean oil . The official BHQ oil? What ever the fuck you want at whatever ratio. Opinions are like assholes, everybody has one. JMHO, your results may and will vary.

The sum of the parts is greater than the whole. That's why many part out.

Check with NYUK on here if no one else chimes in.

Check stellar, I think he has (uses) threaded joints. There site isn't complete yet so may have to call.

It's been to many years and to many beers since I read that section in G. Jennings' book. The one thing I do recall is advice against to flat of a port roof, for exactly the reasons you already stated. Obviosly there is an advantage to opening a port completely quickly. It would probably make it a little more peaky but actually work better. JMHO, your results may and will vary. Might want to check this out http://www.lakesmotorsports.com/eshopprod_cat_508-9507-9481_product_99611.Banshee_Viper_Sleeves.htm. Many are unwilling to educate themselves themselves, invest some time and materials , pull their big boy pants up and do it themselves. Could you or I achieve the same power as someone with more experience? Of course not. Could I (you, us) work on an engine and make more power? Yes. Could I eff up a set of cylinders? Yes, if I were trying to get to close to the edge, or didn't do my calculations correctly. No guts, no glory. The only one thing that puzzles me is that if a pipe calculation is made off of exhaust timing (among other primary factors) , how does an engine builder measure the tuned length of any given pipe to get the best port timing for the best performance? I actually posed this question some time ago. Personally I would be interested in this "knowledge" you're willing to share. Be sure you indicate where you obtained it.

OOps, my bad, forgot to mention that little detail about grease seals on bearings. Someone shoot me , please.

As far as comp test double check just to be sure. Make sure both slides are opening all the way, just in case. As for looks, didn't mean to be harsh. I know it takes time.

Add a greases zerk before you put it together and it should last almost forever. Also coat axle with antiseize before you slide it into spacer.

Any possibility of posting a linc? That or give a complete description of it. Other than a few changes ALL Banshees are virtually unchanged for 23 years.

Unless you have an extensive drill selection it probably won't go well. Find drill that fits your 270 then pick the very next size. My guess is that the difference between a 270 and 280 might be .001 or even .0005. Plus then you have to keep track of which is which. I'm lazy, I would just order what I need and be done with it. I'm thinking you would need fractional, letter ,number, and metric drill set to come close to acheiving this. Good luck !!

Porting and two carbs

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=138987 Not exactly what you're working on but gives you an idea what to do.

Unless you're going for the rat rod look, it's time to start spiffing it up. It has an effect on how you approach a problem , you will try to do a better job on repairs. If nothing else give it a good bath and Armoral the plastic. Clean the carbs good , replace the float needle and seat if they don't stop leaking. Also check/set float level.

Well obviously he found the parts diagram somewhere. He didn't want a part no. , how much, or where to get it. He wanted to know what it was. And what it did. Pipe is a rather nondescriptive term, chain roller bushing would make more sense. BTW, now I know why mine was a little sloppy,lol.

Welcome to BHQ !! Got most of the info right, need elevation and your jetting now will help. What do your plugs look like? Have you tried new plugs? Has this problem just started, just got machine? Have you cleaned carbs , air filter. Fresh gas or is it from last fall? Which FMF pipes?

Entitlement mentality "I want an answer and I want it now" There's a thread going right now of someone wanting the part no. of the screws for the plastic. GIVE ME AN EFFIN BREAK !! May I google that for you? That and they want answers that are in a repair manual. I guess you can download it for free, don't know. Even if the search doesnt work good it gets you in the ball park. If not try another search term. Or ,wait now, just start doing a manual search. OMG You mean I have to work for it? The little bit of knowledge I have on banshees I aquired from reading posts. Kinda like Johhny 5 , input. The rest is general life experience of messing with 2 strokes since before they had reed valves. Even if there were a sticky on common problems, ie, slides wrong, choke tube , etc. I doubt many would read it , though it would be good to have. Rant #2 over,

I agree the search function sucks. I've tried quotation marks, + between words. If I get 200 hits for a topic ,I'll go thru first couple pages. I read thru every thread dealing with a-j-arms to make a decision on which way to go.

Did you put anything on your brackets to protect the paint? Does it fit tite to bottom of frame? Where did you get the plate? Tractor supply was crazy expensive.