Larry's Shee

http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/rvs/2430299452.html Don't know where you're at, hope this helps http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/rvs/2435372102.html That's all I have, plus carrier brgs

Savage should have rick rolled him

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=135591 As to idle screws. Probably F.A.S.T. has the screws. Might want to get kit with caps and throttle cable and get rid of the "brick" on top of carbs. When you do the screws clean carbs good while you have it apart. For the running problem, check for leaks at carb boots.

There are manifolds with and without balance/crossover built in. I plugged the boots on my son's shee because of cracking from boost bottle. At a slow roll in 3rd gear I can stab the throttle and lift the wheels, so it runs great without it.

Welcome to BHQ !! Unless the P O used one stock carb, it should have an idle screw. Two things to check, look to se if the T.O.R.S. "brain" is disconnected. Small box on left frame rail by gas tank, three wires IIRC. Second almost sounds like an air leak, might need to do leak-down test. What do your plugs look like? Can you post pic of carb? Do you have two carbs? There is a sticky for tors elimination/idle screw mod.

After you're here for a while you'll see who is funny, who is knowledgeable, sarcastic, and an asshole. Savage is 3 for 4 . Check your impellor/drive gear, plastic only lasts just so long. Bythewaylongassrunonsentencesreallydosuck,makesithardtofollow. Bewareofthegrammerpolice.

Page 5, look at Milo and Handyman, both running PC. That was scrolling thru less than have the thread. Both running 300+ jetting. Only saw two setups less than 300 mains.

A picture is not worth a thousand word, I didn't see that one USED. 90% of new for used PLUS Rays 14.95 ship? Not economically sound

But how can you fuck up a new part? To much silver spray paint?

Check that the petcock and tank are clean and that cap vents good.

What carbs are you running? What jets do you have in it? Gnarlys are a low end pipe, sure your bud didn't have more than just pipes on it? Such as porting? Might also try +4 on timing. BTW, Welcome to BHQ !! OOps, just noticed, mostly stock = stock carbs

What's up with this shit Sparky? Throwing videos up like they're confetti and can't even jet a carb? Read the sticky "What jets are you running" , find a simular setup and adjust for elevation.

I thought '' Boisseau '' was French for hole. No offense Qc. Great set of carbs you got on your Shee. What other goodies came with it?

I'm Sofa King We Todd Did , Jerame is correct on float height. .

Welcome to BHQ !! If you don't have a Clymers repair manual , get one. Check ALL grounds are clean, bare metal, especially coil. I think coil has to be ohmed with boots off. Ohm boots seperatly also. Trim 1/4 in off plug wire before putting boots back on= new clean wire. On my son's I had to pull flywheel, clean poles on stator , inside of wheel, and lugs on out side of wheel to get rid of a mis-fire. Set pick-up gap at .018. JMHO, your results may, and will vary.

For shits and giggles try a different comp tester. Doubt with 50psi you could ever get it to start even pulling it.

Exactly what I did. Took boot to hardware, found a plug that fit good (1/2" pvc plug/cap I think) gooped it up good with 3-bond , clamps. No ill effects of no balance tube. Go back thru carbs making sure you can see thru each jet, and when you blow air thru every hole in carb including bowls be sure you feel or hear it coming out some where. Might have to soak them. Be sure when you set float level it is with no gasket (18mm IIRC). Tripple check that slide cutaway faces air box, and bowl with BB on front/bottom is on left carb.

BTW, welcome to BHQ !! If flwheel came loose there might be some metal fileings , hopefully no major damage. Be sure to get all of it out/off of flywheel. On outside of flywheel at 4 o'clock is the pick-up coil, look at it closely for damage. After FW is back on it has to be set at .018 from the two lugs (bumps) on outside of FW.

First "tool" you need to buy is a Clymers Repair manual. If you can wiggle the flywheel you probably won't need a flywheel puller (this time). Use ONLY a puller for Banshee/Blaster not anything from Autozone, etc.The flywheel key is a half-moon shape piece inbetween flywheel and crank shaft, if it looks marked or effed-up in any way replace it.

Have to be awuful sloppy to get coolant on back of engine filling radiator !! Check that you don't have a leak on the hose that runs from pump to head.

My bad and I looked at list twice, lol. Well then he should try different pipes, little bigger carbs. JMHO , your results may vary.

If you don't need the money, sit on it for a while. Ride it when you can, comepletely drain the fuel when not using it.

What kind of pipes do you have?

Check where intakes are in relation to cyls. Got this off Blaster forum. Anyone got any info on this? http://www.crmotos.com/classifieds/viewlisting.php?view=50059

Well you could get it , maybe sell it if you don't like it. Or hold pat until something else comes along like fattys, gnarlys, PT mids. My son got a set of FMF gold signature series for $35 with silencers. Granted they weren't the best of shape, but they work great, can idle down to a crawl even in 3rd and just roll on the throttle.