Burt Reynolds

Ok on every bike i have had the shocks will extend out before the ball joints bind up. On this bike i have now with my +2 j arms,the ball joints bind up at about the same time the shocks extend all the way out down.. If i put the bike on a stand,,with no front shocks,i can basicaly put the shock in there and slide the bolts through without lowering or raising the a arms. I know this is harder on the ball joints but is it dangerous? i am worried about a ball joint ripping apart during a wheelie or something

Im very happy with the two things i have from them.,but they do put out some bullshit,and i have seen some bullshit work they have done too.

Did you actualy pull a plug and kick it over to see if there is spark?

My buddy bought a brand new banshee in 06,and after about a week one of the lower rod bearings let go. he called them and the shop replaced the entire crank assembly and did all the work for free. but im pretty sure your screwed..........

Wow you really wanted a round housing swingarm. By the way RICOCHET makes a skidplate with a built in chain guide.

I use their 2 into 1 intake on both my bikes,and i have a trinity head on my trail bike,parts work perfect no problems. I did have a major credit card issue with them,they have my bank card on file,and i called them to order something and specificaly told them not to use my bank card but a new card number i gave them,and they still used my old number and overdrew my bank account by 60 bucks. i had to have my bank call them and straighten it out. i was extremely frustrated with the whole situation.

Ill be there,shouldnt be to muddy it hasnt rained since like sunday or monday and its been in the 60's Right now 20% chance of rain saturday night. Supposed to be 69 degrees partly cloudy. ill be there in my little red toyota with my papa johns sign lol

Well you guys got me beat i rarely buy reed gaskets or clutch cover gaskets,i just slap some silicone on

170 something exhaust if i remember right,sorry if i came off like an asshole.

Theres lots of things,all bad. some very bad. If its still locked up and its from heat seizure you might get away with not getting into the bottom. But if you broke a piston skirt,caught a ring,ect it will involve getting into the bottom end.

I said it sounds like you were getting yourself into a mess because you didnt even know what area duration a drag port is. And you also said that you had to show them to someone before if you knew they were ok or not. I was just stating a point that i think you are selling yourself short by not letting an experienced person do it. And no your question wasnt how much horspower difference will there be between a drag and dune port your question was "how close is my porting to drag?" Wich is what i responded to. Anyone with a search button can spend all day on here spitting out 2 stroke facts,but it takes real experience and know how to do a proper port job. Wich is why im saying you would have been better off letting someone else do it. Did you use a degree wheel? A little flashlight? Measure from the deck? Whats your blowdown? What angle are your main and secondary transfers? What size domes are you going to need to have proper compression because of the loss from raising the ports? AALLLLLLLLLLLLRRRRIIIIGGGHHHTTTYYY THEN!

Your probably going to get yourself into a mess,getting the ports to the right height is only half the problem. The transfers need to aim a certain way,some parts need to be radiused,some need knifed,theres a little trick to everything you cant just raise and lower the ports. In my opinion nothing can beat the knowledge and skill of a qualified cutter

Best thing to do is get a manual and go over it step by step. I had the tors box go out on mine though. Its the other little black box near the spark plug coil,try unplugging it.

I am running +4 timing with 150 psi static compression on 93 octane with no problems. Its actualy one of the the stronger running stock port bikes i have have been on. Im probably getting away with it because i dont have a high compression ratio,or my autozone tester is off lol but if his bike ran fine on 100ll then didnt on 91 octane i would say its obvious his problem is his fuel

Im saying this should be obvious,he switched from 100 to 91 and now his plugs are backing out. Im not trying to uncover a breaking story here. Static compression shouldnt be used for more than to keep an eye on the life of an engine. I have seen motors that need 115 octane only putting out 150 psi of static compression because they have two seasons on them and are wearing out. Its all about compression ratio. So someone might think "damn i dont need a rebuild i still got 150 psi" when in actuality their motor is about to explode lol. So in my opinion it doesnt matter to me if my auto zone tester is 10 psi off from what the actual psi is,as long as it consistent to itself. Like in the case of seeing if there is more of a 10psi difference between cylinders. Like if it reads 10psi over i want it to always read 10 psi over and not jump around Detonation can be loud or subtle. It can blow away large chunks,or microscopic pieces. It can rip out cylinder and head studs too. In my old 250r,when i had it rebuilt my machinist guy said i need to bump up the octane a tad because of detonation,and i told him i didnt see any marks on the old piston or head,well then he had to get out a magnifying glass to see it. right now im running 93 octane on 150psi,and +4 timing and doing fine so every quad is different too.

Port timing(height and floor of ports) on the exhaust and transfers is what dictates what type of port job you have trail/dune/drag. You can cut your exhaust and transfers to a straight up trail port duration,and make them 10 foot wide and you will still have a trail port. To answer your question i believe stock duration is 170 something,and drag port is like 194-196 exhaust,so your not to a drag port yet. BTW i know a lot of guys that wont even cut on someone elses work.

YOU NEED HIGHER OCTANE,period. I have never seen a worn top end vibrate a plug out without making horrible noise. Or maybe a crank out of whack really bad,but with those problems the plugs backing out would be secondary to the massive vibration and hammer like knocking you would hear. You said it yourself,you tried different gas,and now the plugs are loosening up,its a no brainer. I would never run +4 timing on 91 octane. Its like removing the packing out of your silencers and then asking why your bike is so loud.

In my opinion FMF gnarlies or PRO circuits for low mid power. I only buy coolheads when i need a head,like if i do a rebuild and notice some pitting or something,i will pick up a used coolhead,i would never buy one new.

Just run no bottle and leave the holes open more air=more power. lol kidding use the stocker

Here is what i would see if i was looking at it. Plastic is cool. Tires are so/so. I would notice right away that the engine painting was done after assembly because of the bolts being painted as well and the overspray.This to me says why would someone invest a lot of money into building a good stroker to just do a quick rattlecan job on it. There is no spacer plate,and its stock cylinder.,so the stroke really cant be much more than 4mm unless some exstensive modding was done to that head. So i would assume 4mm stroker if it does indeed have a stroker. It has the tors removed but i dont see idle screws installed unless they are facing away from the camera. pipes are spray painted too. Looks like a nice bike but in my opinion it throws a bunch of red flags up to me,and thats just my opinion Over all it has a really nice appearance you could probably get a little more than usual because of that alone. Good luck with the sale.

I run a j arm banshee with +2 denton j arms and i love it. I also have a really nice set of stock j arms i will sell for cheap.

First off no offense to motoman,but i test rode thier banshee,and it does run good,but not worth the money in my opinion,not really much faster than a mildly modded stocker. The vitos kit is 5-600 bucks,for 600 bucks you could do a top end rebuild with some porting and it would run right with it. They add a lot of displacement but dont add much porting. I called vitos when i saw how cheap thier kit was,and I asked him about what exhaust duration and port duration and blow down that thier big bore cylinders run and he just said it needs drag pipes. So i was like you mean drag like 194-196 exhaust duration or higher? He just explained basicaly nothing to me for like 2 miunutes,and i got off the phone with him convinced that he just didnt want to say they dont do shit for porting on them.

I have used straight 30w--gas station brand 10w30--rear end fluid (super thick). Anything will work on a short term basis,but if you want cheap,and permanent,atf type f is good stuff.

kenda klaw xc 21 inch,103 bucks shipped for 2 of them from motosport.com.

Started using ATF type F (cheapest i can find) a few years ago and still have never had any issues. There are guys that swear up and down by 10 dollar bottles of tranny fluid,And believe me everyone is entitled to use what they like,but i just use cheap shit. Im not saying go throw gas station brand oil in your 14mm DM banshee,but if your is just the run of the mill with slight mode you really never need more than good ole atf type f By the way i ran autozone brand 20w50 in my trannys for 5 or 6 years with no problem.