Burt Reynolds

I need a good condition drop in and go stock crank. ANyone?

Sounds to me like more than your air screw is messed up. Find out your elevation. I ran a similar setup and ended up with 150 mains and only a 40 pilot. If its bogging towards the lower rpms,i would try a 45 or 42 pilot and see if that makes it better,and if that doesnt help try a 50 or 52. For the pilot try only turning your air screw out 1/4 turn,then try it at like 4 turns out. If it runs better at 1/4 then your pilot is lean and you need to go up,if it runs better at 4 then your pilot is rich and you need to go down. For the main just go up or down a size and see if it gets better or worse. At this point once you get close,and realize if you need to go leaner or richer its pretty much trial and error

I would go with a 4mil long rod and use wiseco 795's I would stay away from using a spacer plate,milling the head or domes is better,it wont increase your crankcase volume. Porting is essential though,or your wasting your money imo. The only advantages i could see with a short rod is being able to use stock wiseco piston's so there are more overbore sizes available. But i went with a long rod and cut head and im very happy

Shaving the head will tighten the squish and raise the compression. Best way to advance timing is by buying a timing plate. I wouldnt go over 4 degrees on pump gas

Does your oil smell like gas too? Unless you have some major wierd problem i wouldnt worry about it. If the kicker side crank seal is bad,it will usualy only suck tranny oil into the cylinder. If you have a totaly murdered crank seal i could see some premix oil/and gas leaking the other way. But i have never seen a crank seal leak gas/oil into the tranny and not be leaking the other way as well. And if it was leaking the other way your quad would run like shit and you would be fouling plugs all over the place

Make sure they arent leaking while your riding,but banshees do eat fuel. I remember riding the 20 mile loop at s-tree in kentucky,and the banshee guys (i rode a suzuki at the time) were always barely making it back to the campsite lol

I would think the coal would tear up sand tires. Damn i know of a great tire someone was telling me about but i cant remember ill e-mail the guy and get back to you

There wasnt much difference between the two in performance on my 4mil. I had a 4mil with 33mm carbs,and cpi pipes.Im sure theres a difference but none that i could tell by riding in a field. I switched from uni-pod filters to an airbox with no lid (had a couple holes drilled in the bottom) When i replaced the pods with the box i had to go from a 160 to a 155 main,stayed with a 42 pilot,just turned the air screw out 1/2 turn.

Did the o-rings and domes/head all come from the same place? If you coat them with a little all purpose grease,just enough to make them tacky,they will stay i their grooves for installation. Thats how i have always done it.

I usualy use copper coat on the base gaskets of ported motors on the sides where making the transfers larger has made the gasket surface thinner. Other than that i never use it unless the surfaces are rough.

Measuring is the best way,but arent short rod 4mil's a lot more rare?

thanks guys

Ok i have a set of denton racing j arms on my banshee. They have bronze bushings. Well they are worn out so i bought some stock style delron j arm bushings. Come to find out the denton j arms use a different size bushing,they have a little bit of a smaller outer diameter,but have the same inner diameter so you can use the stock banshee bolt and tube. I measured the stock banshee j arm tube,where the bushing pushes in,it is just over 20mm. The denton racing tube where the bushing pushes in is roughly 18.7mm I have tried and tried to find something on denton racing,but i think they are gone,the website doesnt work and the phone number i found is disconnected.Also i cant find any of their products besides the stabilizer anywhere. So WTF can i do? I could have a machine shop machine the tubes to where they will work with stock bushings,and still be strong(they have a thick wall),but i would rather find some bushings that will work? Anyone ever heard of this? This is a damn headache

PJ's arent bad carbs,but i hate how the idle is controlled by the choke. If i got a steal on some pj's i would take them but i would avoid them if i could

There is a very easy way to do this. Do not hit the ball joint threads or the nut, instead,take a hammer and hit the outer radius of the part of the spindle that the ball joint presses into. If you do that while pulling it apart a little,you will be amazed at how easy it is. I need to make a video of this.lol3 The first time i seen this done i was like WTF,all these years i have been beating the shit out of them,and it could have been so easy

My moneys on the 450

Way to long,and with the leverage and a passenger your going to need one hell of a rear shock

Selling my black toomey t5's cheap 205 bucks plus shipping. Here is a link to the ebay auction,i will end the auction early for bhq members Please read the auction carefuly http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=120452665887

HAHa i dont even know what power shifting is,That track is 150ft

I had the same prob when i put my cpi's on,+4 timing solved my problem

Tried 1rst and 2nd,didnt matter i was sliding everywhere.

Well i had john at www.gassrx.com build me a 4mil motor,and i can honestly say i couldnt be happier. He ported it for cpi's and i threw on some 33mm carbs,big intakes,and a beefy clutch. The bike flat out hauls ass,it pulls like a rocket. On pavement 4th gear wheelies without pulling up is no problem. He has spent countless hours on the phone with me with setup and jetting,and he even let me call him back and forth during my first day racing so i could get advice on how to hook up better off the line. His prices are great,and he is a hell of a nice guy. The bike is flat out rediculously faster than before. If anyone is having trouble deciding where to go for portwork,i would definitely give john a call or vist his website at www.gassrx.com

Well my first night of real racing went great. I was setup failry poorly,with standard holeshots,no wheelie bar,but I placed 2nd out of 20 riders. Heres a vid of me beating a ported and piped and carbed banshee Here is a vid of me beating a simarly setup 4mil,except he had drag tires,but i still got him. That was the class i got second out of 20 bikes. I also entered the open class wish was rediculously out of my league and lost my first race to a 7mil that was a full on drag bike,he clearly beat me,but i was surprised i stayed with him even a little. Im also making a thread about my experience with gassrx in the reviews section

I know a few guys who have tried both cpi and shearer,and both guys say for straight top end drag racing shearers are better,but the CPI's have more tourque as well as the top end. I know i friggin love my cpis'

The port work could be bad,not to piss on anyone who has had good experience with them but i have heard a lot of horror stories about CT