Justintoxicated

Haha I'm the opposite, I'll just but a couple $10 sets, I tend to lose shit before I break it most of the time. I got my compression testor from alba, I dunno if it is good or not but seemed to work ok, untill the gague broke when I dropped it. I don't see how snapon would be so much better other than using a decent quality gauge. the rest is just some brass fittings and O-rings and a tube...

Yea thats my plan I don't want anyone buying something and not being happy., you can tell in the pic is it not too noticable when they are cleaned up, but it is larger than in the pic, just on the underside of the pipe. If one was to have them chromed or ceramiq coated they would look alot better than the nickle plating does after a short time. But functionaly they are a great pipe, I just need something that will work with the new motor better. I will try to get some pics asap.

35 pwk airstryker

350 + shipping. Prefer Money order but would also take PP, just add 3%. Zipcode is 90815 if you want to estimate shipping.

hmm +7 vs +4 , makes sense to me...

Hey Andrew, selling the banshee?

So I'm finaly getting rid of them. They have nice smooth power from bottom to top but it is time to try something new... These are Used FMF Fatty pipes. No Dents or Cracks. One pipe has a bit of rust, mostly on the under side between the exhaust port and the pipe hanger. It started a month after I bought the pipes. Pretty typical with nickle plated FMF pipes. Anyways, I keep my stuff in good condition. The seals are TM Designs No Leak One piece pipe colars. They use expanding silicon rings inside them. I really like these things as they have not given me any problems for several years now, and I can take the pipe apart from tthe silencer without any tools and it saves a bit of time. The trick to these seals is to put some grease on the O-rings them when you slide the silencer into the pipe. I would keep them but they won't work on the pipes I'm going to get. I think I paid $60 for them new. Looking for $350 I have a recent pic of them installed, and will get a pic of them as they are off the bike showing the spot on the finish soon. If you look close you can see a little but of the spot in this pic. PIPES SOLD

Is it coming fromt eh water pump side? I noticed it as well and it is normal, I think its from the water pump. Been running fine for quite some time. I'm not sure why I never noticed it before I ported my banshee and added the coolhead, I think the sound was quieter and not as noicable before. I can't say you have the exact noise im talking about or not, but it sure seems like it...

If you already have a shaved head get the reeds they will make amore noticable difference, the noss head will simply offer a little better cooling. Unless you want to raise your compression even more and run race gas. Personaly I have both

Is the sound coming from the side with the water pump? Put your ear next to the water pump cover. I noticed an increase in noise when I raised the compression (switched to cool head) and ported...It' skind of a tick toc sound. Even with 111 race gas...it is normal. You can check your pump to make sure it is in working order. if you want to further investigate, I can only hear the noise at idle, otherwsie the pimpes cover it up.

Watkins I know someone with a LSR +2 for sale if your interested. Send me a PM. I personaly like the front end to come up easily, but not ridiculusly easy. Controllable is what I like. I like to jump a bit too, if you get a +4 jumping will be a little more dificult as well but I don't know if you care about that. I think +2 would be good all around duner. +4 will gear you more towards drag racing but is still very dunable. If you plan to change to a cub later though I would definatley recomend the +4. the +2 is perfect for my setup, but I may have to switch to a +4 in the future when I get a 4mil cub, I'm thinking to try it first though.

It comes stock, you can just unplug it and also disconnec the Parking Brake and get a blockof plate and that will avoid issues. Some people remove it because it makes accessing and working with the carbs easier.

Well there is 2 of everythign vs something like a 250R, but it's not THAT much more work... As compared to 4 strokes, they are probably less maintanence, or maybe on par with a properly maintained 4-poke, but more often rebuilt though With a 2 stroke those the rebuilds are easy and cheap which also allows them to be more easily modified, once a 4-stroke has blown up its going to be $$$$$$$$ to fix it plus the motors are MUCH more complex, although you should have to rebuild them less often. So cheap rebuilds more often or one really expensive one less often... Also 4 strokes need transmition oil changed more often, oil filters, and valves checked every so often. Banshee has seperate case oil so if you use the right stuff it does not need to be changed ever trip. TORS is part of the stock carbs it stand for Throttle Over Rev System, it is supposed to keep the throttle from sticking if your carbs get wet, but the general consensus is it causes more problems than it solves. I think it's more something they added so as to not get sued, similar to the restrictive stock pipes.

stock i only about 35 HP at the wheels, pipes bring it up around 45. The general consensus on the forum seems to be that porting postons is not a ood idea as the gains are minimal and it weakens the piston. (why people prefer weisco over Vitos. Not saying you will have problems with it though, just that there are easier ways to gain a little power like a timing plate. If you want a woods bike I don't think I would lengthen the swingarm, just change your gearing, or lean forward more to keep the front end down.

Hmmm, How did you make sure the Cases Fit together correctly? Did they seal together perfectly? How did you make sure of this? You could have had an air-leak, probably around the Intake Manafold, Check your rubber manifold and make sure there are no cracks in it. Also check the Rubber boots that go from the carbs to the airbox (If you still have them) Finaly check the gaskets behind the Reeds and manifold and replace them. I would gues it was not caused by your jetting if it only burned up one side. Do a Leak Down Test (find someone who can do it for you) to make sure everything is sealed up once you get it back together. yor Not running a boost Bottle are you? Those things are known to cause cracks in the stock rubber manifolds/intake. Replacing the chain once it becomes worn out will help keep it from snapping and smacking the case and putting cracks in it. May want to get a case saver for an extra piece of mind. The Cases do NOT have gasket seals, it should be metal to metal sealed with yamabond between them. for the crank and other seals I purchased a seal kit I can't remember who makes it it was about $45. I woudl replace all the rubber seals while you in there, as well as check your crank gap, and examin the shift shaft, it is discolored might was well replace that as well it is only a couple dollars.

I would say you should be fine with a +4... I may run 4mil Cubs in the future with a +2, although it might be better with a +4 in the end I doubt I will fork out another 700 for a new swinger and another 300 for a new shock to be revalved.

I have a compression tester the kind that threads in place, however it fell off a shelf in my room and landed on teh floor and the gauge broke... Can I just buy a new gauge since i already have the rest of the junk? And where would I get the right kind?

I only have to pay about $5.50 + some fees for race gas, relatively cheap since regular Premium is 3.60 cents a gallon these days... I use F&L 111 from SoCo Gas station.

I would have to disagree with the snakeoil thing. It makes a good difference on my banshee. Get the Aftermarket Flywheel and the Aftermarket stator if your serious about lighting. HID's unlike halogen requier a constant 12V and also have a high amperage draw on startup. If a halogen does not get enouh power it dims, if the HID balast does not your light willt urn off compleatly. Even with the High output Flyweel, and Aftermarket stator and the Largest Battery from Trailtech one of my HIDs will eventualy go out if I'm not moving. (I have 120 watts worth though not just 60 watts of HID) When a HID goes out you have to turn off the switch and then turn it back on, but if it went out because the battery was low you would have to do this while riding, because your battery cannot handle the draw. The high output flywheel may make a little more peak power but it keeps the power up while you are idle which is Imoprtant IMO with an HID setup. With 2 HID's your battery WILL be draining while idle (how fast determins how much junk you are running and how much output your getting form the flywheel and stator at idle) Without these mods, forget about running 4 HID's without both the flywheel and stator. msg Wallrat about his 2 MR16 HIDs with his 2 MR11 HIDs. He has trouble keeping them both on at the same time even with the high output stator and 7 amp hour battery. It would be very solid setup since with the High output flywheel and stator you are able to make about 60 watts of DC power at idle. Like Lobo said, with 2 HID's it will work without them though, as long as you are not idleing around waiting on others or stopping alot, and have a decent sized battery (I would def go with the largest you are comfortabel with) My advice to you would be to get the HID setup and try it out then determin if you need the stator and flywheel.

I took some pics when I got back from yuma I will try n post them soon.

So after a couple years of talking about it I finaly met up with one of my friends with a raptor 660. From his camp we headed towards the dunes at Gordons Well at a decent pace. Before we made it to the dunes I hit a little bump in the sand and the back end came up at an angle and flung me sideways into the sand, bike summersaulted a few time and I ended up about 25 feet away from it. I think the front of the bike soaked it up pretty well, but my rear shock is Fucked and I think the rear rebounded over the front of the bike. Spent the eveneing in the Hospital in Yuma. Was not sure if I had fractured my back, but the X-rays looked good so they sent me home with a shot of Morphine, Loratabs, Bruised Kidneys, and contusions to Chest and Back. And Banshee is Pretty messed up...I messed it up good this time..., Needs new bumputer bars frame plastics cooler rack, mount for HID's and who knows what else I left that POS at the parents house before I made it home.... The new Custom Creations A-arms looked ok, and the Quicksand Swingarm was untouched. All 4 Hid's fired up, but the ones mounted to the bars are pointing in some funky directions since their mount is all jacked up. Yup that about summs it up. Oh except for the raptor in front of me went over the bump fine with his stock rear shock...

If you can come up with a way to increase the size of the tank and do this let me know.

post whore haha

you were probably too lean and messed up your lower rod bearings. I don't like the burn on your plug either but the pictures don't tell much. It loosk like something was in the one cylinder and pitted the head a bit...You did tighten the screws on your reeds right?