Justintoxicated

it POURS coolant out of the spark plugs Sounds like more than a gasket leak then...But I dunno, what other problems were you having? I would definately say pull the head off, and check out the cylinders. if they are F*cked then just get some 4 mil cubs if you want to be really fast! But remember you might need a new clutch and pipes and head to go with the cubs. Nothing wrong with just porting and new 4 mil crank though. Just remember you have to get it ported for the new crank, it has to be pored for the 4 mil stroke and you will need some head work.

Crap I think I had that problem as well, Getting a good fitting socket really helps...

I'm thinking it must be lack of Nitrogen, however when i talked to TCS I forgot the guys name he explained that it would be at least $100 and needed to be compleatly rebuilt every year. Nothing like "oh we will just recharge the nitrogen, there must be a leak or you need to have the oil changed." He said all they could do is rebuilt it and did not understand what I wanted them to do since all they do is rebuild them.

It will kinda feel like you are cranking on a spring when putting the Nut back on. Get a deep well impact socket, I could never get a regular socket on the nut very well.

If you have stock carbs check to make sure the crossover tube is connected between them. if it is then let us know if you are getting spark on both sides.

Just wanted to make sure that you never idle the banshee with the clutch pulled in for long periods of time and DEFINATELY do not hold the clutch in while rolling down big hills. You don't do that right? What happens when you pull on the clutch? Is the clutch working properly but the shifter won't engauge?

I have to run race fuel with my 19cc domes. Sounds like you may be detonating. 190 mains? I was running 310's with just pipes and K&N, sounds like you are lean too. +4 timing with that much compression + 93 octane = Bad Bad Idea.

do a compression test, but I would think you should be ok on pump gas. I believe .040 over is where they draw the line and you must use race fuel.

No... I thought you were going to a stroker? Why are you boring the cylinders?

I thgouth this sounded great at first but i will no longer be getting one. I would imagine most problems from the stock ignition are from bad coil wires, not the ignition itself. When it Talked to the Nology guys at the Sand Sports Super Show they informed me that this mod will help if I am running racing fuel, followed by telling me that Racing fuel will make your bike run HOTTER, and the nology coil will prevent it from getting too hot! I just said ok thank you and walked away...

I hate those damn things...They do make a tool to hold the flywheel and crank in place while your removing the nut. If its really stuck on there, your risking fuggin up your crank (twisting it) by simply leaving the bike (in gear) and stomping the bakes. After you do get it off I sometimes put a little grease on it before torquing it back on at spec so I don't have to go through that BS again.. The China Freight Impacts suck on small compressors unless you get the one (less max torque) made for less air pressure. My litte 4 gallon Copmpressor won't power that shit enough to take a lug nut off my truck tires let alone get my flywheel off. I find it pretty much useless. Does your leak air pressure when you have it hooked to the compressor? Mine does....I took it back to get another because my frist one leakes so bad i would barley even turn. The second one still elaks air but much slower...I never should have bought that POS... I actualy have to Brake the nuts loose by hand before using my china impact which pretty much defeats it's purpose.

Those look good man, nice color.

before you get those check out www.quicksandmotorsports.com alba makes some decent arms too or arms/shocks package, just make sure they have them in stock before you order. Or are you definately going to go with your 450 shocks? I would imagine shocks tuned for your banshees geometry will work better, unless you just can't afford the properly adjusted shocks.

they will "fit" but they will suck as well, do both shocks and arms ar the same time or don't do it at all...

Is it going to be ported as well? I'm guessing 35 air strykers if so, but best to ask your builder...

it was probably a plugged pilot jet, next time checkyour jettings when you clean the carbs, cause sometimes it will get lodged in there and you have to poke it out with something like a twisty tie.

Hey your the person who brought it to my attention lol...THey are kinda annoying, although I don't like the sound of my Fattys at all. I mean they are not 4-stroke loud...Maybe this guy should get a thumper lol

I think have 2 spare voltage regulators send me a PM if you need one. (stock one and RS aftermarket one)

yea stick with bell ray gear saver oil, I like the 85 weight.

I like the CPI's too except for the fact they are annoyingly loud...

Well I dunno, people like different things, I like adjustability, and it has to be easy to adjust. Elka has it, many others don't. I would definately say the adjustment makes a BIG difference not no difference. I have not ridden enough other suspension to compare, but if the dunes are super choppy or all whooped out I jsut click the knob a few times to make the ride smoother. For me Elkas were only a little more than works of the same level, so thats what I went with... They don't just slap Dune eddition on the shock for more sales I have a whole article on what they changed in the shocks that makes them dune eddition, and elites have both high and low speed dampening.. These changes likely make a big difference. Low speed is more for cornering and steering while high speed is for jumps chop etc. The dune valving makes the shocks take chop smoothly but ALSO take the big hits with ease, or thats what it is supposed to do and it works for me. I would love to try some non dune elites and I'm guessing there would be quite a difference. The new series that is out allows you to adjsut the crossover point between the high and low speed dampening, I have no idea how useful that would be but it sounds interesting. At this point im hesitant to buy any shock with little adjustment because I can tell someone my style and they mgiht think they know what I want to do, but I want to be able to play with them a bit myself. I would go with Axis or Ohlins over TCS though IMO. I think the Ultimate shock would be high end Elkas with Ohlins valving in them (which is actualy what alot of the Pro's run)

Was the custom axis shock brand new because from the sound of things even a few trips on it and your going to notice a petty negative difference on anything but a brand new shock...Not to mention it sounds like he jsut put it on his banshee and did not tune it, a few clicks on the adjustments makes a pretty noticable difference through the whoops. Just curious, not saying you do not do good work, But it does not seem right that you should have to re-adjust the shocks almost every trip because the oil is wearing out. I would imagine it is best to fork out your $500 every year to rebuild them all but i don't know anyone who actualy does this for recreational riding. Well umm uhh except for Dunedeamon...

if your old shocks were setup for stock arms all you need to do is have them revalved for longer arms. They don't suck because they are dual rate, tripple rate just adds an extra spring that will compress almost all the way when you sit on the bike, the dual rate springs will not compress as much, hence why you get more travel. Some people like self sagging shocks, typicaly or MX to help steering I believe. The banshee is not much of an MX quad to begin with so your better off geting dual rates on the banshee with +2 +1 arms. Im not sure what the hell the point of Quad rate shoocks would be, I don't think there would be any benefit from that at all. you would jsut have more springs thats it. As a spring compresses it's resistance increases, the idea is to get a nice smooth dampening, with 4 springs they would not be very long and it would likely just make things worse!

I was going to say your peg looks pretty damn bent in that picture, but I still don't see how it would fit without using some kind of shim or something. From my understanding almost all Nerf Bars Fit like shit...Never tried a set other than the stock ones.