Justintoxicated

Picture of messed up dome after running it for a long time http://desertrat.servehttp.com:8080/Desert...pg&d=d.html Notice the mark in the notch where the head was not allowing the dome to properly seat. it was like a whole 1000'th of an inch off

exactly, my friend has a 5 mill... not to many people building them anymore just get a 7 instead...

From my experience it is usualy the Stator or CDI, NOT the coil. But it could be....

stocker may be a little lighter but I doubt it makes much difference. yea it't rotating weight but really small diameter...So it is not the same as really heavy wheels for example. Here is the website that explains it: http://www.canecreek.com/moment_of_inertia.html The closer to the hubs the weight is added the less you have to worry about the rotating aspect of the additional weight. The MOI does not increase nearly as much, Since we are talking abuot the axle itself you can't get any closer to center... I would second the g-force for the price but RPM makes some really nice stuff. Although 350 is not a ton of cash compared to what bendy blue wants, it is still 75% more! I woud keep the stock one if your not planning to go wider. The only reason to get another one is if you bend the stock one, or want to go wider for more stability. The chome gets sandblasted quickly anyways.

Thats the problem, you want the bumper to give instead of the frame in a bad wreck. Looks good though, but I'd rather replace my bumper than my frame should the need come about. Unless you think it would bend easier than the frame up front? That grab bar looks sweet though!

What bore are the subs? What kind of pistons? Are you also selling Domes for a head that was used with them?

I went from FMF Fattys to CPI Big Bores (I don't have enough motor for the big bore inframes either!) I still saw a noticable improvement when shooting the hill. I have the 12-port and I'm not even drag ported. Something is up...

is it a misfire or a backfire?

I might be willing to split them up, but I would need confirmed buyers for both sets. Or at least one more without hardware. I thought it might be nice to keep one on the bars

Good advice there. Also check your ignition coil with a multi meter, Also if possible you might try swapping CDI's with a known good one. It could be electrical if your not getting proper spark. I had an old Ricky Stator 200 watt that showed spark etc all fine, but when I tested with the ohm meter one of the coilds seemed off. Called Their shop and they said the resistance was correct for their coil but it was causing some ported bikes to not run well (mine ran like crap and I went through plugs like mad untill they replaced it) It's either got be be Fuel, Electrical, or a leaky seal Thats about all that it can really be. Also you cleaned your pilot jets out with a strand of wire or something right?

Interesting my banshee brakes were a bitch to bleed when I replaced the lines too my and my friend like 2 hours! Autozone has this pressure pump that will pull the fluid through the brake lines. you plug it in near the brake hub and suck the fluid through the line, its way easier than pumping the levers... It works so well that you can easily suck all the fluid out of the resevior and have to start over lol. It sounds like you have some air in the line. This device will suck it all out, just have someone handy to keep the resevoir full. I think it is called a Vacuum Pump

I want to be clear that I am not recommending you jet to my specs. This is what works on my Bike at Glamis (about sea level) in warmer weather. When it gets colder I like to bump it up a size. MY motor is a dune 12-port not mx-12-port as well, ands each bike is a little different. My setting MAY work fine for you but they may also be too lean if it's colder where your located or different elevation etc. You sound like your on the right track though. As for your gas, if you can just mix some race fuel into it thats fine, or drain it into a jug and mix it there Also what kind of compression tester are you using? Do you have access to a know accurate one? I think I'm running 19cc domes and have around 165-170 PSI and timing advance 4 deg, running about 100 octain (F&L 111 mixed with 91) My compression slowly crept up almost the whole season (but I don't get to ride that often). It is back on it's way down now. Good luck.

Just buy an easy drain, it comes with the gasket for the pump cover and makes draining coolant a much easier task. Not too pricy either. Sometimes you can get away with re-using the clutch cover gasket I re-used mine two or three times before I replaced it, but if you want to be super safe just replace it. You will probably need a Large C-clamp and some boards, a socket and a mallet to press the old impeller seals out and to get the new (or re-used old) seals in. Honestly I thought it was a pain in the ass. I may be mistaken here though I don't remember if you can take the impeller out without removing the seal/bushing cause I put my billet impeller in when I swapped clutch cases for the lockup. I'm probably wrong here in fact

I ended up with some grade 10.9's flange bolts, not allenhead, but regular plated bolts. They look better than factory and should be stronger. It was $4 for 10 bolts. Now if I could find a nice stainless bolt for my upper A-Arms that has the proper shank/body length (non threaded) as well as for my rear linkage I would be happy. I doubt it will happen though...

Put them on ebay and get something from a reputable company. I doubt they will clear shocks with piggy backs anyways. When I had a problem with my custom creations arms slightly rubbing on the resevoir of my piggy back elkas they stood by their product, granted their chrome shop took FOREVER, but they had a new set of arms made for me by the following week. Thats how it should be, if your shocks don't even have piggy backs that is just a piss poor design and it's BS.

I doubt it will help your lowend but if you can swap them without a loss I would. Get a Noss Head and some smaller domes and run race fuel then you can get some lowend back

Basicaly Buy 3 get one free is my offer No1 is interested? They are used but in excelent condition.

Any Dyno Runs to look at, preferably comparative ones?

I wonder how much oil it hodls vs stock and how long it will hold up before it fades

I would run 50/50 race gas with that compression on a new motor. The cranking pressure ont he ported motor will be a bit higher plus when I got mine it went up about 15 PSI as the rings seated. Better safe than sorry. On the squish I'm not really sure how to measure it so I will let someone else chime in there. I would think you would need a micrometer or something.

All banshees are craptor eaters...They just have to mature first

Revalving the stock rear shock is as good as buying an aftermarket shock without a resevoir or Longer travel. Does it fade? yes, but it's basicaly the same design as an aftermarket shock once revalved and resprung. It makes a huge difference compare to stock. Don't rule that out either it's fine for most riders, and way cheaper than the elka with linkage. You can buy a works shock for almost the same price, but unless it is valved properly I would not expect any better performance. Dual rates will be better for jumpin than standard travel triple rates where some of the spring travel is there for sag and to keep your center of gravity lower. More springs does not always equal better. I love my elka shocks and they seemed to be valved decently (they took weight A-arm length etc into consideration when I had them built for me) The High speed and Low speed, compression, and rebound dampening are nice to have and help you fine tune for your environment and riding style.

Draging get shearers if you want the power to come on sooner get CPI's

Try some Bel-Ray 85 weight it may make your clutch wear alot slower, Also pickup a magnetic drain plug, it will collect shavings and open up the oil passageway into the case. I only change my oil once or twice a season and it is never metal colored.