Justintoxicated

I always liked Criss-Cuts better.

What wallrat said is right on. I would recomend changing the front and keeping the one you have now as well. It's easier to change the front than the rear. If the rear is shot then go with the 43. However make sure your chain is long enough. It is harder to change the rear than the front sprocket.

awww man it's not red

Who ported the Cub? Would you seperate the crank from the cylinders?

That and I need a +4 right now too. So if I bid on this no1 else bid! lol

lol check out his other auctions.

Would look alot better with a black frame.

I would run one of those too but my kit came with the cheaper one As for the slider on the swingarm, the chain will run a slight grove in it when it is new, but it should not be angled so bad that it will eat all teh way through it.

you won't be saving that much since you have to get the stock crank welded or replaced anyways. Just do the 4 mil for mroe torque, which is what you will lose when you switch to a tripple exhaust port cub. FMF Fattys > T6's on a ported bike.

Yea because being a good rider has everything to do with being a good mechanic. Thats the reason all the Nascar drivers build their own cars as well. haha just messin with ya.

would be cheaper to just buy a stainless steel sprocket no?

I had problems with my first RS as well, bike suddenly ran like crap so we rebuilt the whole motor. Then it still ran like crap because of bad domes AND bad stator And one hell of a time jetting it in this condition lol. With multiple problems it was a bitch to figure out! Especialy since it seemed like I had spark and the pickup was adjusted properly. However even after 2 years RS replaced it with a new version for free It runs much better now. I would not worry if the parts were made in china since it really is a pretty simple device. Although better screws would be nice, its the quality of the windings (done in house) that makes or breaks the stator. Not saying you didn't have the pickups adjusted properly on the 2 stators which you had the problems with or anything just stating my experience. Did you by change check the resistance of the ignition coils on the bed ones and compare them to your stock one?

I'm not following, what is the disadvantage to running weisco? You should ALWAYS warm up your bike wether using cast or forged pistons, forged pistons just expand at a different rate than the cylinders (which are cast)...Other than that I see absolutly NO disadvantage, they are stronger which is most important part of a piston, and lighter weight as well (next most important factor). Since when is cast stronger than forged? Don't port your pistons. theres not much reason to, you might get another HP or two but it will likely make them weaker, they already have the necessary size holes and there is a reason for this...Look for another way to add the HP. Also not sure I'm following the logic on having to have a stroked motor to run weiscos, so if I have a non stroked Cub I should stick with forged? Even on a ported bike I would run Forged pistons, as your already making nearly double the power from the factory. Makes no sense to me! I ran stock pistons for 3 years and weiscos for 3 years on my ported bike, I have not had problems with either setup in terms of reliability. I read about some pisons made in some part of europe that were also forged and had some special Molybdenum Bisulphide coating or something but I don't know much about them (not even the name).

Double and tripple buff just means they remove more material. (Easier to get flats I would imagine) but they are lighter (tripple buffs are pretty thin). For the estimated power I would stick with 8 paddle exteremes or 9 paddle non-extremes. You culd run 9 paddle extremes since you have a plus 4 but you would be better off with 8's IMO.

probably the equivilant of about 20 lbs acceleration wise. Worth 80 bucks? I don't know only you can determin that.

WD-40 is great for displacing water but it is not a true lubercant, more of a cleaner. I use white lightning (for mountain bikes lol) it works ok...I'll have to find some break free

I use amsoil Dominator for 2-stroke oil cause it is cheap but for tranny oil Bel Ray has the best product I have used so far, don't have to change it all the time and helps keep my clutch from slipping...

Put it this way, my friend and I both had Jim's 12-port, I had a little more compression with my head, but he had 1mm larger carbs and a +4 swingarm. Only other difference was pipes and different aftermarket reeds and I would win @ the hill but it was close. Then he changed to sheares and it was all over for me untill I got my CPI's now again it's close.

STU Razorbacks FTMFW. Anyone want to buy/trade my buffed mohawks on black lable? I don't like them. I don't want heavy Sand Stars Either. Dune = STU Drag = ST Mohawk SS, FTL...

Interesting I was going to have my elkas serviced localy by Percision conceptz instead. I think I'm going to keep elaks valving though, I'm actualy happy with it. I asked them for Expert at all levels and ordered dune eddition shocks with dune valving. if i was going to have them revalved I would probably go with percision concepts valving since they used to re-valve elka shocks for pro riders all the time before elka changed their sponsorship rules.

The stock front shocks are adjustable? I'd recommend having your shocks redone by percision concepts. I had mine done by TCS and it felt pretty good but I think they missed a bad seal that percision concepts found after I crashed.

interesting, on a ported bike my friend and I felt the other way.

Race/aviation Gas will Burn cooler than regular. The new CHROME FMF pipes look sweet I don't know which is better. I heard you don't want to tripple plate Pipes...I don't remember why.

I have an extra regulator if you need one.

What clutch lever are you using?