Justintoxicated

Well I'm definately going to locktight the nut, it already came off once in my case and now a bunch of stuff is all chewed up. I have a new lockup on the way. I'm running 1.8 quarts I did not weld the ball but if your clutch was not fully disengauging this can happen no matter how much oil you use....Really should not need to adjust the clutch THAT often, unless your replacing it. I can get all my adjustment I need out of my Factory Yamaha Clutch lever.

They are an awesome top end inframe drag pipe, just hated riding with the in the dunes, as well as others I ride with that were looking to sell them. ( I think both people are just going to end up selling their Banshees though). They really bring out the worst in the bashee, they hit fierce and keep pulling I know this forum has a bonor for them so just make sure they are what your looking for. Might want a +6 Swingarm with your setup.

Yea I want to get my cub and pipes from him, but he is very hard to get ahold of. I sent him an email though.

Looking into this myself right now

Yea mine did not come with upper A-arm bolts I can't find those anywhere, just like the footpeg bolts (but this was acceptable it was the stuff it came with that did not fit that was no good.). Sounds likr you guys used ALOT more of the kit than I did. Should I buy ANOTHER stainless kit to get the other 50%? I don't think it's worth it and it's not fiar that I should have to buy 2 of them. I said I was done with this thread but do any of you by chance have pictures of the Motor mount bolts and Swingarm bolts? I'd like to see if they are different from mine. Lower A-arm bolt's mounted would be nice as well.

Well I sent him the pics, he sent me replacement bags with the same Bulshit bolts in them that did not fit. I have all 6 linkage bolts sitting in a box they are worthless. He would not send the correct bolts after he tried to replace them with the same garbage so I cannot recommend this kit to anyone and would strongly advise against it unless you have money to blow. Only 50% of the bolts fit and Fastnerguy would not do shit about it for me. Do a search and you will find my old thread. Feel free to direct him to this post I do not care and hope he reads it. He told me the same Bulshit you guys are suggesting to me that the bolts must have gone into the wrong bag or I mixed them up, been mislabeled or whatever. Too bad the ones he re-shipped were exactly the same; worthless, and were labeled for the same parts. Sorry that is the truth deal with it. I will give him credit that I asked him for a second set of one of the bags (can't remember which is was maybe pipe bolts or something) because his rear brake hub bolts did not fit he did do this so I was able to at least get those installed. However he did not seem to believe me that I was having issues with his kit, just wanted to make me happy not take my advice and just ignored the pics (never heard back from him). Or maybe he did take my advice now but just a little too late for me. Maybe I was the guinea pig for him so he just decided to fuk me over I don't know... I'm done with this tread so I will not be replying to it anymore, all I can do is warn others and post my experience. If you do not agree with it just leave it at that. There way too much crap posted on this forum that is misleading. You like the kit great, I rebuilt my entire bike and it did not work out so well. I have no reason to lie and I have no reason to have taken these pics months ago if the bolts fit or startup that old post. After the second set of bolts he shipped me I sent him even more pics and got no reply. Feel free to ask any of my riding buddies only about 50-60% of the bolts fit the rest is absolute Garbage. I still have a TON of stock bolts on my bike and my wallet is $110 lighter. Although as stated $110 isn't that much money, IMO when you buy a bolt "KIT" the damn bolts should fit, I can understand some of them being incorrect but it was only about 50% or so, I got a "Kit" because I do not have to drive around Los Angeles looking for bolts that fit, and now I have to do this anyways. most of the bolts that did fit I already had (clutch and stator cover bolts) so that did me no good. others that fit I had to pull out of other bags which were labeled for other things and sacrifice using the bolts for those items. Also what did you all do for the steering stem bolts since the factory one is integrated into the mounting hardware? Mainly I used the A-arm Bolts (which don't fit extremely well either and I may remove them) pipe bolts and plastic bolts. I also used radiator and gas tank bolts. Also rear brake hub bolts after I got the extra replacements, I also replaced my Allen head for my shift lever with a new one but I already had this bolt as well The rest I have no use for and did not fit. The air box bolts I used for other misc stuff like my battery since it mounts there and some others (taillight bolts) for things that his kit did not replace (like the bolts for the CDI etc.) Things that you will need to buy yourself After you blow you money on this kit include: Motor mount bolts (All the mount bolts I went back to stock on including the Long ones) Brake Hub Bolts Swingarm & linkage Bolts A-arm Bolts (unless you want the nuts to be just BARLEY threaded on line mine) Foot Peg Bolts (not included in kit) Brake Hub Bolts Rear Sprocket Bolts Wheel Nuts were a complete joke (expects you to put non flanged nuts on your wheels with flat washers and lock washers LOL Things that fit that I can remember off the top of my head: Head (already had these) Bar Clamp (already had these) Brake Reservoir Plastics Brake lever Pipe Mounts Gas Tank Clutch and Case covers (already had these) Shift Lever (already had) I know there were others as well and if you want to know PM me and I will try to tell you if I can remember or I will go look at my bike. In the end I would say the majority of the bolts that Did fit I had already purchased or replaced when and were common. All the bolts that are harder to find did not fit. Also my bolts are not Polished but regular stainless steel, I don't care that much though since I did not expect them to be super shiny for the price, I just expected them to fit and not receive some BS about how it's just my banshee they don't fit on (as you can see from the pics they don't fit ANY Banshee) edit: I will take pics of more of the bolts I have not used because they did not fit and post back if anyone would like, but that

LOL Yea, thats what I have but mine uses the stock stud/rod. I was told not to get this one when calling around today because the threaded stud/rod is not hardenend like the stock one. Also I swear the flat part was on the long side of mine, but I will have to check next time I'm in town. I'm thinking to get some red locktight to prevent it from coming out of adjustment again.

Well my friends 7 mil cub has more lowened than my biek currentlyt does.. I would hopt switching to a 4 mil,and keeping my compression up would help wth my lack of lowend or at least help keep it where it is at even though I would be swithcing to a cub. Mind you I'm not riding trails but I don't want to have to keep my bike reved to the moon all the time. Thats alot of work on a 3 hour dune ride and make it more of a PITA than a fun ride. For example jumping off a small razorback I would have to nail that shit to keep the bike in power. I would liek to be able to slow down some and approach the razorback then Punch it and launch off it...Not have to suck in a my breath and Slam into it and bottom out my suspension / eat shit to keep the bike in power. Also I don't want to have to double and tripple shift down all the time if I hit some super soft sand. I want a fun bike to ride but want more power than where it is as now.

Cheata is better for fireroads I would think, powervalves should make the power a bit broader. It also uses a special head. So it has larger Reeds, Different Head and Powervalves. BTW you said 10 mil so I would go for the full cheata hands down to avoid problems with reeds. Assuming I had money to throw around, otherwise the cub is more bang for the buck.

I have 4 Trailtech HIDs but I'm thinking about changing to 2 Baja Designs HID's instead which are considerably more money but why the hell not Not sure what I could get for these but I was hoping around 550 with all the mounting hardware (handlebar mounts and stock location mounts and even a a spare mounting post that has spaces for 2 extra swtiches. They are in excelent condition as well.

go the HQ way and just get both (+2 and +6 )

Just make sure your rear diff has the proper gears in it and your tranny timing will be fine.

Long Story First set did not fit, had to put dent in the pipe to clear the head AND use 1/2 inch spacer. Then on 2nd ride the chrome started to peel off. Returned that pipe, new one leaks oil out of the seam and the other origional is leaking oil at the mounting tab. Have another set on the way but I wish the first set would have worked 8 months ago. I just want to try somethign else and when I get the replacements I can sell them as new since they will be. 3rd times the charm right? but I think a Cub with alot of torque would be a killer setup for dunes.

No I'm frustrated with CPI, and I don't like Shearers (although I have not tried them on a cub)

Ok so I have 12 port stock cylinder Noss Head and I think 20cc domes, but maybe 19 I don't remember. Anyways I have Billet Intake with no crossover tube, and 33 pwk's I have a CEL needle I believe it is on the second clip from the top, not sure on my pilot and I have 158 mains I believe. It was running great when it was around 77 degs out. But ran ok up in the 100's too. I would say your pretty close. Maybe try playing with your gearing, I have a 14 tooth on the front and 40 on the rear and it pulls nicely. you have to be wound out in 5th to pull 6th. I don't know why you are melting plugs, I had problems with my Noss head Domes causing the plugs to back out. The domes were not cut properly cauing them to bounce around a little in the head which caused slight coolant leak (sometimes) and the bike to run like ass untill I replaced the other dome as well (which I could not identify anything wrong with, and it was not leaking coolant). Also what is this copper washer for the Noss head you are talking about? Mine uses O-rings no copper washers... Check your domes and make sure they don't have any burn marks on them, make sure they don't have marks from bouncing around. After A few months mine showed some burn marks (on top and side) near the little tab that is supposed to keep them from rotating around. make sure they fit flush in the head and there is 0 play. (mne were flush and no play but since only the alignment tab was holding them up the pressure eventualy pushed it into the soft aluminum head and thats how we discovered the problem (dome was cut too low but the alignment notch was the correct height). Oh yea we thought it was my stock carbs reeds and jetting that was causing problems at first too. When I changed to 33's it was a little better but still had issues (All too Familiar). Finaly we found the real culprit which turned out to be the domes. I think you should look for other possibl problems, a leak down test was the answer for me. Actualy Even after that I found there was a problem with my stator as well! Go figure! it was working but not providing a hot enough spark, it was an older ricky stator and they have since changed the design (caused problems on some ported banshee motors). So it can be frustrating trying to jet the Banshee when there are other issues (for me bad domes and bad stator and new carbs and jetting) all at the same time. It took over a year to figure it all out. If your bike is breaking up your too rich or have fowled plugs, it's reving fine but not super clean clean and does not feel like it is making the correct power for the RMP your too lean.

Hmm I'd go big bore so your motor runs cooler, but you should be ok with either set on that bike. I'm running Big Bores on my stock Cylinder banshee and it runs fine, although I htink small borres would run better. If your more concerned with Peak HP then shearers for sure. Shearers are not for everyone...They do make more peak HP but it comes on too late for me. I hate having to rev the bike to the moon to get it going, Unless I'm dragging, then of course it does not matter. I tried them but decided on CPI, the power is more like the Fattys but it also comes on at higher RPM's, not as painful as Shearers though. I'm interested in this new pipe as well. it better not be ROCKETS.

I want to keep my Banshee dune-able and I'm curious about the SLP Pipes. They are supposed to be torque monstors. I would not mind sacrificing some top end to have a bike that is easier to dune around and play on. I figure that the cub is going to make enough HP with any pipe but I'm worried about the lowend due to exhaust port sizes etc. I have new CPI Big Bores on the way but I don't think I want to run them. Thanks, Justin

I would not fltp the rims, and I would not recomend using stock shocks. Buy the arms and save them untill you can get shocks valved for wider arms. Your ride may be much worse once you install the arms without the right shocks. Flipping the rims means you need to drill a hole in the wall for the valve stem and plug the existing hole. on the other side.

Now why would you want to do that the stock YFZ arm is fuggin ugly "looks" like it weighs alot as well. I guess if you have a YFZ front end it would be cool though.

Good to hear thats a step in the right direction

1) Float the ground on the Stator 2) Get Voltage Rectifier 3) Run from stator -> Rectifier -> Battery 4) Wire everything to the battery 5) Bike will charge the battery as long as your not constantly sucking from it.

Here so some more...This one is supposed to go in the brake hub (Hmmm 2 other bolts fit in there though)...just a little too long! Oh yea and Polished my ass...

Here is the motor mount bolt (onthe right)(Notice the Non Threaded Area that prevents the bolt from threading in all the way)

here is a picture of the Swingarm Pivot Bolt that your life depends on, next to the stock pivot bolts.