Justintoxicated

I'm going to run BB CPI's on my 421 cub.

yea avoid the plate if possible.

I have the billet one, the whole idea is to cause the chain to ball up so either should work. That Tm one looks nice but I have never snapped a chain to begin with.

I knew I should have got red. Guage is kinda cheap I probably should have sprung for a quality liquid filled gauge. Oh well this was easier with fullbores.

Mine was bored twice when I got my weisco's too, maybe it's just safer after porting to bore out 2 sizes? Well Good luck with the next build you might as well split the cases and take some pictures of the crank. Was your crank trued and welded? You can always buy my stuff if needed

It has been done before but most people find it easier to just replace the radiator with a better one. Other things that will help your cooling just as much are using products like Engine Ice. Someone also got some nice temp drops simply by making a shroud that forced all the air to go through the radiator instead of around the sides of it. Good luck.

Rear plastics - pending Stator - Pending Axle - Pending Flywheel - Pending. Grill - Pending? Someone buy my crank and cylinders so I don't have to pay ebay $60 to list them. Since when did selling on ebay get so expensive!

Looks like a 2010 banshee :0 I kinda like it. I would not be able to cope with the 450 seat myself. One of the best thigns on the banshee is our seats are damn comfortable lol. But there is not much you could do about that I suppose. But you job does not look 1/2 assed or anything like that. I like the classic banshee look, but there is no way in hell that fulbores are ugly. They fix everything yamaha screwed up with the stock banshee plastics (uneven on the sides, need for extra supports, and the flimsy quality, no rivot holes to hide etc, access to radiator). Hell fulbores even have rubber gromits where the bolts go through the rear plastics. Unfortunately they fall a bit short as far as the fit of the front plastics.

Ninja Oil :ninja: ..... need discipline

hope you get this figured out.

Because my outerwears did not touch the pipes like I thought they would. It either has to do with the new frame or swithcing to Big Bore CPI's or both. The angled pods is key!

the v-force reeds have 8 petals stock reeds only have 4 which is one reason why the v-force flow more, and have snappier response. My V-force 2's don't have that hole thing wtf, why not just cut that shit out?

My advice is to use Pentosin coolant 10 to 1 with distilled water. Most other coolants will allow for buildup or seperation over time and as you will find out it can be a bitch to drain and refill, and blocks can plug up if junk gets in there. Get Hose/Worm Drive clamps for all connections. I don't use a resevor as I feel it is just one more thing to mount or to leak. Their PA Thermochill radiators are very good and I have not had any problems from my TDX block for CPU or Maze4 video card cooler. I did have them replace the first pump they sent because the adjuster knob did not work. Not a fan of all acrylic cases here, I used a CM Stacker 810. Oh yea might want to spend a little more on hardware and less on effects and case. My 2+ year old computer is: AMD Opteron 165 Overclocked to 2700 MHZ x2 Raptor 150 + 400 GB 7200 RPM 2GB PC 3500 Nvidia 7800 GT Thermochill PA 120x2 (wish I had gone with a 120x3 for the next upgrade) DFI Expert Enermax Liberty 680 watt Custom Luxeon Royal Blue Lighting (similar to my ATV lol) but dimable. Monitors I'm using 2 37" 1080P LCD's I think my computer is a bit dated being that it is 2.5 years old now (other than the screens) needs more power and yes I feel it is a bit slow, but banshee is first. Oh yea, definately jump the PSU and run the loop for at least a day after the initial setup to make sure there are no leaks before turning the computer on. Also Avoid mixing any copper blocks with Aluminum ones, it will really increase corrosion. edit; One more thing, you can get masterclear tubing for like 1/10th of what they want for tygon! Get the 5/8th inch tubing and force fit it over the 1/2 inch barbs. General consensus is it is a better fit and quite flexable. I almost forgot, make your tubing runs as SHORT as possible.

I'm running the K&N Angled pods. I have CPi BB and have not burned my outerwears yet. I do put a few rubber bands around the outerwears to keep them away from the pipes frame etc. I have PWK33's but that should not matter. On some bikes or with some pipes (same kind or not) burning the outerwears will be more of a problem. I have some header wrap but decided it not to use it. Waste of $25 or whatever.

Search I think I posted this before. it was pretty significant if I remember, like a few lbs of rotating mass. I went with black labels myself.

If your sprockets are worn and the chain has play or does not move freely then it's time to replace the POS stock chain too.

Ran that oil for 3 seasons now (and some other stuff too) but mostly dominator. There was a little bit of deposits, but nothing serious. I had more build up from Castor 927 over a couple trips.

I would not use it either, how to the clutch plates look, the metal plates look burnt so I would imagine the others have some serious wear as well?. What oil were you running? Was your clutch slipping alot? My stock clutch is 7 years old and looks better than that plate.

That said both Plugs fire at the same time so it is safe to switch them, one of the few benefits to having a twin when it comes to diagnosing problems.

intake sold / shipped

I believe there are some problems with carbon fiber reeds and alcahol. I have not tried it myself.

http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/L.../Halogen/TruAim might have to order them from a retailer. I didn't finish enough testing to make any durability decisions before switching to HID. I know the first set didn't last all that long in the RS lights but theres also no vibration dampening in them. However any Incandescent MR16 can break when launching the banshee over and over and over lol. The only issue I noted witht hem was send seemed to get in through the vents in the lense. But they are definately worth giving it a shot! You need to find their part # in the catalog, theres a few different version last time I checked they only had a couple different bulbs in the IR listed. Or the easy way is to call Osram, get the part number and a local retailer that can order them. A little bit of a pain but check it out for sure!

Anyone still u sing halogens should try the osram/sylvania TrueAim/IR 10 deg beams for both lights. The bulbs beam pattern is beautiful and lights up a nice even light area in front of you. Hell I like the beam pattern from these better than my Trailtech HID's it the best bulbs I have tried yet (not as bright as HID but 30% more light than regular halogen MR-16' as well (If you get the "IR" version). Actualy I believe they are 30 watt IT's or maybe 33 watt I don't remember. but they also save a little juice. (I have some left over bulbs I could sell but they are a little more expensive than a run of the mil MR16 [Which suck] but these are 55 watts each) I hade thes ein the RS Aluminators.

Well it should run fine depending on who ports it. However what they are trying to tell you is that you won't gain much HP by going to a Big Bore Cylinder Vs Stock. And you won't get as much life out of those cylinders.

mmmm mexican food + Hot Sauce = Horse Power! My stocker got trashed really quick and I have had my X-ring for a few years now and it's still in excelent shape. I dunno, I just don't trust non-Oring chains, I thinkt he O-ring chains jsut last longer, but maybe I am just lucky.