AKheathen

of all the topend oils i've seen used around here. caster927 is the most common, because it's sold every freakin place. then klotz about 1/2 as often, but some complain about the gummy buld-up. and amsoil is actually really nice for those who have ready acces to it. i prefer torco gp-7 for several reasons. it's verry similar to amsoil. it doesn't leave build-up or gum. it burns real clean. has excellent detergent, penetrating, protection and stability properties. it stays suspended/mixed with 90 and 100ll at -30f and below

still check the jetting when you switch, and watch out going to lower elevations

well, the shortty's have a different geometry, too. not just being short....well the good ones, anyways...

a little play in the flywheel is bad....it's supposed to be riveted solid, or it will come apart. i may be interested in it to tear apart and experiment, though. but i don't even get paid untill wed morn.

you're an asshole

huh?

you can check with alfie, too. he can get just about the best deals on that stuff chepar then rmatv, etc.

i thought all mikunis were stamped on the side of the engine side bore, or something. round would be like v38, tm would be t38, tmx would be t38x, or tx38, or just x.......can't remember. you could possibly get away with the 38's on that setup for hill shooting, but the 34's would definitely be the best choice for the ridding you have to do to get to backwoods hills, like in pa. with the 38's you would have to really train yourself on roll-on throttle, and partial throttle pulls more frequently to keep the venturri up enough. they do sound like they have been setup for alky before. i would check the domes while you are in there to make sure they can be run on alky. if you need to know the size, you can use a piece of Plexiglas with a hole cut in it. put a spark plug in the dome, and smear some Vaseline/grease around the edge to seal it a little. use a cc syringe to measure how much water it takes to fill. then you will have to subtract the deck height x piston area. I'm not 100% certain if the domes are measured minus the excursion of the piston, but at least you will have the measurements if you go to order new ones. my memory kinda sucks today, lol for the life of me i can't remember if you can't run gas on alky domes, or you can't run alky on gas domes, lol. maybe someone can step in and verify soon.

so, how did you verify it is stock stroke? if you have 19cc stroker domes. that will be really pushing pump limits at 3500' if it's sock stroke for sure, then 19's are fine, no problem. just sayin- assume makes an ASS of U and ME. and, remember, you will need at least 50/50 if you go below 1500-2k, depending on timing. definately check the jetting, though. after you make the switch to pump. generally, you would end up rich, but the fuel up there may make you on the lean side, since they run differnt s.g. pump at higher elevetions.

it can happen both on your banshee and your old Bonneville. air/vacuum leak. airleak will do that instantly when it's just a little hot. real high cyl temps were probably the culprit in this case, leading to pre-ignition, but i would definately check for airleaks or lean conditions. look for cracked intsake boots, loose clamps, spray carb cleaner around the intakes while it's idling and listen for it to change idle to see where a leak is. cracks can stay somewhat sealed enough untill the engine gets hot, but a leaking one will likely have premix creeping out. if you don't find one, do a plug chop to be safe.

actually, if those were the same cyls i looked at, they had a fresh hone, mabey bore to them, and came with matching pistons.n honestly, i got my bike for 1k running strong with a few things on it.. still dumped a few k in mostly parts from this site, and keep goin. hasn't majorly let me down yet. i'm sure you will fall for the addiction, so it's best to think about how you're gonna budget now.......

does the black have continuity with ground? you are gonna have to pull it and see where you can get continuity. if it's floated for 12v, you will see an unused solder connection on the basket, and one of the yellow wires will be connected where the winding goes there, in stead. if you don't care to do a dc setup on your bike (requires a rectifier) then that can be reconnected to that unused pole. if it's not floated, and it's a high output, it will have 18poles, instead of 12, like the stock style. you can see if there is a connection problem at the ground. actually, i just remembered that it doesn't use a pole, but an eyelet that screws into the stator frame. i just don't wann retype it all, lol. oh, and the black wire connects to the wire holder on the back of the timing plate, so you must have that screwed in for it to work.

the basket needs replaced when the clutch fingers get grooved pretty good. also, the gear needs to be tight enough not to be able to move it by hand, at which point you have to replace the cushions, conical washer, and gasket. if you don't have the tools, or want to do it, most people just replace the whole basket. the fingers are probably worn by then, anyways. that' it a good time to upgrade to a billet basket. if you find it has tiny screws securing the plate, there is a writeup in repairs/mods to upgrade or repair from failure. there is also some fairly recent threads about the different baskets avaiable, ie. hinson, barnet, weisco(i think) one or more of them needed the pressure plate modded to use a lockup. i just used a hinson with the stock hub/pressure plate. the basket usually needs upgraded around 80hp, imo, but different conditions/setup, etc can change that. it's basically the shock/load you put up the clutch, like drag/hill-climb or dune/trail, etc, tire size/gearing, motor, etc...

depending on what "race" fuel you use, it burns with greater energy than regular pump at it's peak efficiency. the rating is it's stability, metered in it's knock resistance. if you fail to provide enough instability, ignition, it simply doesn't ignite efficiently.

just random, lol Stockbanshees Icon : (Today, 11:39 PM) nigger

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133952 it's called "looking"

well, it was probably shorting out on the flywheel. the ignition coil reaches high voltages with rpm's......starts in the 20s for voltak=ge when you just kick it over, and gets hindreds of volts, so the wire actually could still be arcing somewhere if you didn't get it real good. another thing could just be that the shorting could have overloaded it some. ohm it and check insulation

someone probably knows off hand, but you can just cc the domes yourself, or have them cc'd at a shop. use a peice of plexiglass and drill a hole in the middle. istall the sparkplug in a dome, turn it upside down, smear some vaseline or something around the oring area and put the plexi over the dome. use a syringe and measure how many cc's of water it takes to fill it. 18cc's would be murder on a big bore.

it could also be a floated stock style.

hey, i like the stainless behind the bhq...i'm gonna make one out of fauxed al. could probably sell some like that too, 'eh?

Snopczynski Icon : (Today, 07:07 PM) you forgot to turn the caps off when you signed back in as gooniemom stockbanshee. stockbanshee Icon : (Today, 07:08 PM) REGIN BANSHEE HP Icon : (Today, 07:07 PM) stockbanshee Icon : (Today, 07:07 PM) FUCK OFF... CAUSE I AM WAY ABOVE HIS FUCKING IP BANNER. AND IF HE DONT UNPIN PHEKLPS SHIT. I WILL REDIRECT ILLEGAL SHIT TO THIS SITE AND GET IT SHUT DOWN.. BEFORE ANYONF YOU TALK SHIT.. YOU MIGHT WANT TO TALK TO MATT AND JASONS ABOUT WHO I AM. MATT FOUND OUT.. DONT BELIVE I CANT.. NOW I AM OFF OF HERE.. LATER REGINE ree_ree Icon : (Today, 07:07 PM) where are your pix of this killing you have been talking about ? ...and he called me a n*@@3r i feel offended fyi- i don't think he is goonie, but banshee hp he can change ip at will, so can i, or anyone who knows anything about their comp, but ther is a tiny tracker sites use to identify the comp. itself...or "cookie"

you know? i've been asking for the tail lights since you wrecked the thing.......

oem, or any rewound

yeah, you will know it's too much when it blows up.....probably run pretty good before hand, though. ideally, the key really does nothing but line the crank up during install, but if the crank doesn't seat, there is definitely less meat to keep it from shearing. i had to make a key out of a bigger one out on the trails, but the nice chamfered stock one is cheap at the local dealer, and you will know for sure what the timing is. i would not go further than +4 timing if you are running 93, based on the little info you gave. what is the bore size, is it ported, and what kind? what fuel? safe timing limits aside, too much timing would present as loss in top end power and over-rev. basically, it'd hit a brick wall pulling it to the top. oh, and what pipes you running?