AKheathen

if you went std. then the clearance could be more than his, causing a miniscle amount of difference. there is nothing wrong with it, good topend job, and 2psi varience is nothing to rack your brain over. you could have more than that much differenc between right and left, and be perfectly fine. also gaskett thickness can effect it too. the new pistons cold have slightly higher wristpins, carbon buildup, etcetera. good manufacturers usually match the pistons in sets, but as a whole, they vary a bit. this us one factor in blueprinting an engine, so you can acurately calculate a build, and bolt on parts, knowing they'll match perfectly.

when you hold the carbs upside down, the bottom of th floats (would be top holding upside-down) should be 21mm from the gaskett surface, +/_ 1mm. between 13/16" and 7/8" if they rest lower than that, then they need adjusted. level is too much, and will make it drain through the long hose. also make sure the little diagonal brass tubes in the bowls aren't messed up somehow. they drain the bowl if the fuel gets too high, so the case doesn't fill with fuel. i wish my sled had them when the float needle failed :: or at least a crank drain like polaris has :shoothead:

at the diamond schucks, in the performance section, instead of the spraybomb section. it's actually ceramic headder paint, and it has to be baked to cure, at least in three cycles. it should match the heat cycles, when you retorque the head, and break in the juggs. just keep it clean till then. thanx for the compliment. if i decide to keep them white, i'm gonna sen them off to swaintech to have them ceramic plated next winter.

here's pics installed. i have a Q- are the pipes supposed to sound thin? it seems like you can hear more from the chambers, like the metal is thin.

exactly like mine in symptoms, exept i just put some pipes on. i'm running 310's 27.5 pilot, and it's still too lean on the pilot side. i'm gonna put lid back on for now which will help it double richen and suck more in high r's. i was getting close last night, but every one was getting impatient. it was also 17 below. airscrew all the way in and it just started to bring the idle up richer, i was up to the middle clip richening in steps, and the silencers need packing. i'll let you know how far i have to go to get it dialed when i'm done, or you can post in jetting to get it dialed in quicker. also check your packing to help your low end a little. back pressure has a big effect on the bottom

i've lways heard that the "trick" is to leave them out

power x-wings by boysen, they are flow directors that go into the front of the carbs, they are designed to give better partial throttle mixture at higher rpm's but i don't think anyone here has tried them, i posted months ago asking. i think they are geared twards larger carb setups (like>40mm) that you might find on larger sleds where they are always running higher rpms, but in all throttle positions. i don't see them having much effect on the banshee, especially for that price. i'm gonna fab some up and try them out this summer, because i don't think that they even make them @26-36mm. when you chose your reeds, pay attention to the power range they are designed for, because some of the high end reeds can greate great power on the top end, but lack on the low and mid range. chose what's right for you :thumbsup: also look into ufo's. if you search the forum for "x-wing", there is a link to them.

don't mess with the needle in the slide unless you are adjusting your jetting. do one carb at a time, so you don't mix the bowls. and check the float height, like stated in your other thread. it's measured from the gasket surface to the top of the float. also, the float needle is spring loaded to absorb shock, so make sure the spring part is not stuck

meat is alittle buisy lately, but still posts a bit every couple of days, and minkia parts out large quantities of perfectly good banshees

can you send pics of stock carier and aluminum shifter to [email protected]

did you just hone and re'ring?

u guys using the same oil?

could'v flew in the feed line, but if you tapped the carbs upside down to get all the junk out of the bor, it could've bent the float adjuster tab and you'll have to re adjust, just take them apart one at a time and clean out everything good and blow them if you have compressed air, and re-adjust the floats. don't forget to sync them after you install them. float height is 21mm +/- 1mm (7/8")

i'd fab that suspension for 9k. remind me not to send work to socal fab 5k in motor---> a little vauge. i can stuff my debit card between the juggs and say there is that much in the motor right now.

omg, simply undercover :ninja: congrats :beer:

oh, by the way, i don't think i properly welcomed you. welcome to the bhq! :beer:

please stick to one post per issue it confuses the people trying to help more than one person at once. that being said, if it's flowing out of the overflow, the float needles are not working, period. check your float height, then if the lines are still hooked up, then push the floats up ant turn the fuel on. that will show if a needle is leaking, if the lines are off, blow into the feed tube with the carb upside down. you may have got some junk in there when you put the lines back on, in which case, you should clean out every little passage thouroughly.

i'm thinkin avatar if i can get him to stand in front of my bike :wink:

did you get the gap insurance with your loan? i know if i loose my job or get hurt, the payments are taken care of for a while on my truck. you could ask for a hardship extension too

i used photobuchett, just point at pic, and then click on direct link. click insert image while replying, and hit ctrl.+v (of right click->paste) and that's it just like that :wink:

didn't see him in good/bad/neutral, so i'm creating. i baught some pipes at a great price. they were shipped FAST, and packaged verry well. offered some free jets after i posted about jetting my bike in other thread. thanks man! :beer:

haha lay off the midol man. should try water skippin sleds if we got are heads examined, we would loose plausible deniability

where i'm at they usually charge 30/hour + parts. just tell them what u want done

depending on how long you can live without it, i would take the stocker to an electrical rebuild shop and have it rewound

ditto, and get current pics