AKheathen

wow, that was a mouthfull. i don't know what he means by "we" but there are people on here running other oils for different reasons too. i'm running torco gp-7 full synthetic, and mt engine is extremely clean inside, i can personally attest that it won't separate at 20 below, and it really sticks around to do it's job, without leaving deposits. the richer igo on the jetting, the leaner the mix ratio. i just bumped up to 40:1 to get the smoke down, and trust me, there is still more than enough oil in the rotating assembly/ pistons. just thaught i would throw another unmentioned oil out there, that imo, is the most protection for the buck. and the most popular oil i've heard on this site is castor 927, but only ahead by a bit, and carried at the dealership, like my torco and yamalube:biggrin:

oh yah, i'm runnin 22/12/9's @ 1psi, and they pretty much stay on top of everything, but my gearing is 14/40, which makes it hard to creep sometimes, but i like it just fine

no, you'll have to tear it down, pull thwe jet, and push the junk out, so you don't push it into somewhere else. the e-brake switch would let it rev to 2300 rpm's. idle shoud be around 1500 rpm's. if this sound's about right, then look into that switch. can you give it just a little gas, and slowly raise the rpm's?

if you can't get your hands on a tester any time soon, you could always pull your pipe, and reeds, grab a mirror, and visually inspect the piston and see if you can see anything. or you'll have to tear into it, but a tester is pretty cheap.

if you put brand new plugs in, and the left fired right at first with alot of smoke, that could be a seal, but otherwise, no. that's just that cylinder not firing right. could be low compression, or bad spark. so, you still need to get your hands on a comp tester.

oh, that sucks.. you should probably trade those fatties in for some gnarleys, for some low end, the fatties are more top end pipe. look into chariot reeds/cages. tell them what you want. keep an eye on the for sale sec for deals on juggs. when you pull that lid off, get some bigger jets, and wider needles

21-22's

not trying to bash the guy, but he's just trying to sell you on what he's got. ride his bike, and don't pay attention to how much power it's got, but what kind of power it's got. do your pokin around, and what ever you go with will have more power, but you have to match your setup for what kind of power you'll be happy with when you ride, without a mix-match. for example, don't buy low-mid pipes, dune port, and v-force 3 reeds. when you're done, you wouldn't realize how much the mods rob the strong points of eachother. i got some older fmf gold series, and i'm enjoying a nice long flat torque curve that hits in the low end. it got me the long gear i was looking for. nice on hillshots too :beer:

i thaught the tors circut was removed with twist throttle. anyways, if, forsome reason, someone spliced nthe thumbswitch wires together, and it failed, then it would cut the engine like a light switch whenever you bring it off idle. simply unplug the little box under the gas tank, on the left side of the bike, across from the coil. i would look into air leaks, or weak spark and welcome to the bhq :thumbsup:

yes, go piss on him...... in fact, do it now, so he has good cause to be mad at you

it sounds like you are in a below freezing climate, in which casse, this would be normal. below zero, my clutch plates will not even release untill i get it started and running for a min. this made it difficult to pullstart at 7 below. would also make it lean in cold temps. i usually heat up the case to start it bacause the kickstart wont always catch. after it warms up, everything works perfect. if everythin works good once the oil gets over 40-50 degrees, i wouldn't worry about anything mechanical, and look into oil to suit your needs. and make sure you're jetted right before you go riddin.

the clutch basket is probably worn, and the jetting could be off. next time you look at one, do a comp check. if the comp is good, tell him u want it re-jetted to run better, and mention the cost of a new clutch/baskett. maybey then he'll take the lower price. if the comp. is bad, wish him good luck.

the blue is the best for vibration resistance, and is repositionable

welll first, you need that comp check, but about that pickup gap, when i feel my exhaust, it seems like it's firing every stroke on the left, and missing every few cycles on the right. i tried syncing every thing over and over, but i know the gap is off just a little from one side to the other, and runs pretty good otherwise. before i adjusted it, it would start on basically one cylinder when cold. i have heard of this before, especially with ricky stator flywheels. what happens is, the plugs fire both cylinders on top and bottom, and if one isn't picking up right, that cylinder will only fire on the bottom most of the time at lower rpm's, but will start firing at higher rpm's. it's not the most likely cause, but at least by checking, you know the status of your pickups, and be able to see if there's junk in there. but like i said, get your compression. should be within 5 psi of eachother

it taps in to the yellow wire right from the stator i bet if you run high beams, the prob goes away. move the wire to right spot.

i just never understood why run lead in anything without an exhaust valve. not bad; just wonderin

:yelrotflmao: hahaha, good stuff. i bought mine eight years ago, and still payin' ok, seriously, check your pickup gaps on both sides. mine is stock, but the gap is off by a little from one side to the other, and it was almist twice what it should be, but i couldn't tell it riddin, just want ed to check it. and more importantly, check your compression, and for air leaks.

the hose doesn't need to be at the verry top of the radiator, but it does need to vent to the rad. if you have an impellar failure, coolant will boill in the juggs, creating steam pockets that would need to vent, instead of pushing the coolant out

i wnted to run dex cool anyways. that stuff's like oil when you run it on your fingers. i didn't know how old the stuff was, or what ratio anyways 20 below and no more slush in the rad. :cool:

yah, i went throug the headache too. tey are all actually the same place on different sites. have a dealership run it, or go to the dmv. you're using the 17 digit on the frame, right?

it needs to be machined and balanced, imo

take it to a shop and price a rebuild, unles the thrust surface is toast. they should let you know if it's worth rebuilding

it's a vent tuve that plugs in behind the water pump cover. 3 screws---> plug it backk in :thumbsup:

i'd send the drainplug company a bill adhesive is never a place to cut corners

the key will fix the timing at +3 and can't be easily changed, and not adjustible. the timing plat can be adjusted, unless you get fixed +4, but can be modified to be adjustable. they work the same, but if you get adjustible one, your timiong is not perminant