AKheathen

to bust the nut, :biggrin: put a breaker bar un there, and smack the handle with a hammer.... :woot:

snow machine shock. the ones on my skidoo summit look the same, but they are meant to run with the body on top, so they don't freeze up like my shee did

sounds like you're usin the wrong mark. i'm not sure about the raptor, but my honda motor has a window in the cover. blowing out the intake would be 180 off, and i don't have the clymers any more, sorry

it also looks like the upper bushing@ the frame is messed up too, from the first pic. and if those are sno-go shocks, they are supposed to be that way.

if it's been sitting a while, the oil could have separated, meaning that it would be like runnig 10:1, and old gas. or did you change the fuel when you got it. does the exhaust smoke alot? just a thaught< :shrug:

don't have a vid, but it's under the gas tank across from the coil. if u look, you;ll see it, and the connector there. depress the tab and pull apart :thumbsup:

i thaught the roostin room was for roostin, so we don't hyjack someone's thread by blowin up on nothin. the one place not to behave....jotta vent somwhere ::

hell yah, fab some diesel domes, work the cylinders, rigg injection, and pull the carbs i but reallyt's about getting some long gears that comes from throwing low end at a 2 stroke for me

beautilicious bike. about the tors, and e-brake, they are 2 different circuts. the little black box sends a kill signal to the cdi, using the same wire as the kill switch. the e-brake uses a different wire to turn on a rev limiter in the cdi. unplug the box, not the carb wires, and the e-brake wires.

paddin my nutz... bam...fake titties

x2

ok, sorry i posted while drinkin, and pissed off about havin to fly off to work for 3 weeks but i was misquoted abit. i stated that there is nothing wrong with x2, x3, general bullshiting, etc. i don't even care if you say ditch the tors, or boost bottle if you also jive real input. i juess t was mostly just one guy annoying me, and i needed anything to vent about to fix my misfire, before i blew a piston. that's what the roostin room is for, right? what i was really tryin to say, is the guy should say something. good advice, bad advice, tell a story, whatever. i find my self waiting for replies on 3 or more threads or more, and seein one guy who replied to all, and i hve to click them all. i can live with it, just wanted to vent about nething... oh, and i know i can be unorthodox, to say the least, and if you really dissagree, say so. i won't blow up if you don't. as for palin, i'd stick it in if she came up to red dog. otherwise, i'd rather do her daughter

itches like a motherfucker, and i'm not doin that again. i will trim in the summer, but for now it's "cold wheather gear" besides, it keeps down on chafing, especially with bald, wet pussy riddin on top

here's the link i've not heard of them, but the 3 pedal design, will out perform the stockkers, bot they're priced up with the big dogs that has been proven on this site. they don't list whether they used a conventional flow bench, of one that replicates the pulses of a 2 stroke. imo, if they had spent the extra dough, they'd boast it.

yep i meant the top of the carbs, where the idle screw is. imo, if the tors is half removed, you should get the tors removal kit, and get that weight of the top of the carbs. i think it puts more stress on the intakes than anything else.

can you just copy the link and past it in the little box that pops up when you click insert link while you post? i think that's how. or just past it in the text area, so we can copy/ paste

it's no biggie to pull the water pump cover and check the impellar, which is plastic, unless upgraded. also, you'll be pullin the clutch cover, which houses the impellar, so you can check there too. just remember that the philips screws are #3, not #2, or you could strip the heads easy. hey dave, what oil are you runnin? i've been lookin for good oil that doesn't have probs when the cases are below zero, and i know if you're runnin it, then it's gotta be good enough for me.

no, my bad, i drive 60 miles in my tahoe, then spend upto 45 min, tryin to get the bikes started because the ride cooled them to the core @20 below and ride down a 15 min mougled-to-hell trail to get to the riddin area, and don't wanna pack a bunch of tools, just an emergency kit and tow strap, and don't wanna waste a trip. the summer's a diff story. and sorry gregbob, i was "feelin good" too last night and didn't mean to come off wrong. my wifes' cuz just flew in from the slope, and i just now got up to the mine for my 3 week hitch, so we were drinkin, and dreading today :biggrin: but i'm just tryin to calculate what to expect on my next ride.

the manual's adjustment is for a stockker. generally, on a modded bike, 1.5 is a better place to start, but once, it's warmed up, you adjust for the highest idle to get the proper mixture. if it runs best at less than one turn, then bump a jet size on the pilot, and more than 2 turns, drop a size. oh, and it's an airscrew, to answer your q

ahh... if you look from the left side, there is a little flathead screw at an angle on the side twards the airbox. a good starting point is 1.5 turns out, and, once it's at operating temperature, turn them in or out the same amount on both, untill the idle is the highest. the right carb will take a long shank to reach

normally, i'd say yes, but i've noticed the degrating quality of gas up here in the last month, and it might be safer to go with 22's. i cannot attest that we have an accurate heptane rating any more, so i'd shoot for 145 psi static

whoops, missed that part about air leaks, but did you get the choke tube on good? i don't think it would be your needle, unless you have mid throttle issues. also, check your reeds, try new plugs, the old one could be cracked, but it sounds more like it's lean on the airscrews.

i can't tell if there's a tors top on there, but if it still has it, than nothing is missing. on the removal kit, there is an idle screw that goes into that hole below the retainer screw for the top. look to see if that hole is drilled all the way through to the slide and tapped. if not, everything's fine

hi, welcome to the hq. :cool: it sounds like carb adjustment my friend. they will first need to be synced. then set both air screws at 1 1/2 turns out and adjust both right and left together untill it idles the highest. then, andjust the idle screws untill it idles at the right rpm, with about the same output on both right and left exhaust. it's best to adjust them with the bike at operating temperature. is everything stock? with the blown piston, i would look for an air leak too, and check the jetting.

the keyswitch could be bypassed. it doesn't matter about the throttle switch, as long as the little black box under the gas tank is disconnected. throw a new coil on there, and check your pickup gaps on the stator.