AKheathen

i would too, but i don't wanna rip the guy off, even though mine are near immaculate right now

looks pretty cold there. sounds normal in low temps. keep the choke on for a min when it's cold

hmmm...... should I? i'm getting ready for a tors removal, just need to find the tap here @ work. you should give the flats a try, imo

just get the wal-mart lights, and check the for sale section here, i would suggest pipes once you're squared away on the necessities. if you think it screams now, you wouldn't believe the difference pipes makes, and the carbs will work better than with stock pipes. fast, chariot, noss, may have the billet adapter/filter for your air box. nyuk, or minkia38 probably has a pretty new Carrier available too

did the kit come with new needles?

loks like washout to me. richer on the right. where do the airscrews run the best? what's your needle set at? what do the plugs look like?

i actually pput the toomy silencers with my old gold seies for the look and sound, but i'm probably loosing a little bottom end. i'm happy though, and they pull hard!

what's your jetting at? stock carbs, no porting, no lid, fmf gold (old series) 310's & 30's = 1.5-2 hr trail with some hill shots, but that's in the snow around 0 degrees

so... the long cable that goes to the bars, right? not the slide? just unscrew the plate from the side of the box on top of the carbs, and it's basically like the thumb lever. it'd be easier to remove the slide assy. too. compress the spring with one hand, and tip the slide with the other, and shake the retainer out, then slide the cable sideways in the slide. just remember to get the slide in right, and don't bend the needle.

x2, spacing the reeds out would be kind of like adding bigger domes

i'd trade my stockers for those 28 flatslides in a heartbeat, and she'd scream, but how could i live with myself :sweat: if the plugs were black from 5 years ago, hard to start, and not always hitting the powerband, then they were probably too rich on the needle setting, and possibly pilot. before you pot the carbs back on, pull the plugs and kick it a bunch, in case the case is full of fuel from bad float needles. it should normally start without choke, unless it's cold out. also, while you have the carbs off, check the reeds for chips, cracks, or more than 1mm gap. report back on the spark status, as that's a whole nother ballgame to check stuff. btw, this thread is kinda funny

what's your elevation? i would try some fresh gas/premix to rule out separation if your compression checks out within 5 psi of eachother

X2, if you have to think about it, just do it. :biggrin: besides, you don't know if it's been dry started after a long storage

check the black wire on your coil for good ground to both the engine and the frame, and replace the plug caps. at the cdi, check that the black wire gas good ground too, and the black/white wire has no continuity with the kill switch in run. next, shake your flywheel to see if it rattles. what kind of puller did you use to remove it?

what's your elevation? you should stick around 150 psi for pump

i can't remember if it has to do with the clutch, gears, or seals, but something made me cringe, as it will damage one of those. i was looking at the chevron iso oils we use at work, and we do chew through pumps, and blow ram seals. it's basically cheap, lightweight oil, with anti-foaming agents. do a google search on the specific oil you were thinking of, and you should find some data on it.

are you saying that you ohmed the pickup and the stator windings@ the same plug, or the wires that plug into the ignition coil? if it's the windings, yup, the rs is bad. if not, start buy ohming the stator windings, then check your wiring where it runs along the airbox for melting on the pipe. pull the cdi plugs and check that you do not have continuity between black/white and black, and that the red/black wire actuates with the key

225 load is about the highest i would run on the rectified circuit, although it will handle a little higher. at the point that your lights begin to loose brightness is when the heat in the windings and rectifiers really begins to climb. for example, if you are running 2 100 watt light force lights, and a bar light, the light forces will be fine on the circuit alone, but if you turn on, lets say the 50 watt bar light, and the lights are dimmer at higher rpm's, the circuit is being overloaded, and shouldn't be run for any period of time this way. just remember to account for the draw consumed by recharging the battery, and to use properly sized wire for the current of any circuit, including combined grounds. if you are using the trail-tech rectifiers, or similar, which has separate outputs for battery and lighting, then you can run up to 7ah for battery setup, and closer to 250 watts in lighting, rather than running the lights and battery off one wire, because the rectifiers will not charge the battery until the extra power is available, yet still drawing from the battery at idle. i guess that was a little long winded, but in short, 225 watt load wouldn't hurt either circuit

x2, there is usually someone to keep him in check if he gives bad advice, but he is learning some. i think more particularly, jetting is where noone wants his replies as of yet, because bad advice there can become overlooked long just long enough for someone to blow a topend, but hey, we all started somewhere. i know what it's like to be sure of something prematurely. blaster2006, i'm sorry if the statement offends, but i'm gonna give your answer strait forward without opinions, advice, or bs you don't need a tool to get it close, just to get it dead on. back the idle screws off on the tors tops, untill they stop, but don't force, because of the plastic on the inside. push the throttle a couple of times and each side should thump when they hit bottom. you can put your finger under one slide at a time to make sure the other side thumps. if no thump, adjust the cable untill it does via the adjuster where the cable goes into the tors box. pull back on the cable sleve as you adjust the nut, as it is splined where it seats. now, you can sync the cables, so that the slides raise simotaneously, by the cable adjusters. there are tiny glass windows on the right front of the slide barrels, which show a little dot in the slides @ wot. this not only shows your syncing as they should show up simotaneously, but lets you know the slides are in right. if your slides are no longer black, the dots will be harder to see. also, spraying the windows with wd-40 will make them easier to see through. once you have those synced, move on to the idle screws. with your finger on one slide, turn the idle screw in untill you just feel it move, then add 2 turns. repeat on the other side. Now, you should be synced visually, and can fine tune from there, remembering to adjust both carbs together :thumbsup: now i will give advise- read this several times, and even have it displayed while you sync, so you can run back if you are in doubt of what you are diong

310's at 20 degrees, sea level, 30 pilot

i'm guessin your temp will be around 50-60 when you start, so i'll go off that. drop the pilot to a 30, start with 340, and a thicker needle 1 knotch rich. See if you like the stock carbs before you decide to go bigger. They will get you a little more top end @ wot, and you have the porting to complement, but you may not need it. did you get the gnarleys, fatties, or sst's?

depending on your elevation and temp, your mains should be around 240-260 without a lid.

nope, no thermostat. how many finns are bent, and are they clean? you may also be lean on the main jet

Check the choke tube between the carbs. pull the choke plunger and inspect the o-ring. try dropping the needle 1 clip. clean your carbs real good, pull the airscrews, and check the pilot jets. turn the screws back to 1.5, and add fresh premix

are you still running a snorkel? have you tried raising the needles one clip?