AKheathen

octane booster will not do much in terms of decreasing detonation.

3-4 kicks, tells me the carbs are a little off. cleaning and tuning them will help the low end a bit, too. she should creep near idle like the blaster, but at a faster speed.

and check what jets you have in the "stage 2 jet kit" ironically, swapping that boost bottle out probably would make it start easier, lol

if your runnig the rpm's high enough in the airscrew range to be effected by filter mods, it's time to shift, or get in it already

just a thaught.... have you tried a new radiator cap? you should see the coolant flowing across while you have the cap off

i would see if someone around you has a cdi you can test out, too. it could've shit the capacitors while you were rebuilding :shrug:

if i posted all the pertinent links on the boost bottle, and compiled, it would be a 10 pager. I'm averting to reference, instead of discussion to see how that approach works, until i can do a definitive writeup on the subject. I'm waiting to use a dyno first.

was that you a while back with the weird pickup setting thread, which never was solved?

geains clutch starter honda? not right. need

oh, yah, forgot to mention that your pics are gone in the jetting stickies

got yo plexiglass handy? :biggrin:

why would you run a 7? r u running half kerosene? :biggrin: lol j/k anyways, I'm going to assume that you are running a spacer plate for your cylinders if you can run an uncut head. check your compression and report back, and altitude too, for dealing with the +5. now on to the spark. plug caps can give issues as described, but also wiring and pickup gap. when you said your pickup tested good, did you mean by ohming it, or setting the gap? the gap should be a business card, or around 16-20 thousandths, and the pickup ohms around 110 ohms +/-20, and the coil on the red and green wires should read 13-20 ohms. check the grounds between the frame/motor for good continuity with the black wires at the coil and cdi.

the stock chambers vary by as much as 3cc's, so you have to measure them first. i think if they are at 25, then you take .035 off for pump, but i'm not totally sure on that one.

should start pretty easy at 63. If not, try flush your fuel system/carbs. I always end up with a little junk in the bowls after a couple tanks.

boysen pedals, or blaster cages. I take it you're building a topend bike.

sounds like you are a little rich on your needle setting right now. what's your elevation/temp? looking at your pic, the pilot should be at the bottom of a tube behind the emultion tube (where the main jet screws in) clean it out good, and you should see the knotches to unscrew it. maybe take a pic of the bottom so we can see. snoopczinski comes to mind when dealing with those carbs. maybey ask him about the pilot? :shrug:

this again? i'm not doing another writeup, so just click the link

just blast and paint them with headder paint when they're new. if you scratch them up, you can paint again still installed.

acdelco! best plugs ever for gm, and the isuzu's they've ben running for years. i.e. duramax/vortec, etc... :biggrin: shee's a different story

you could do it, but you'd have to get the cables, fab a idle screw, rigg the tops to hold the cables...... basically you'd be making 14cents/ hour and not have such a nice setup. how much is your time really worth? :shoothead:

saw the title of this post, and the word junk rang in my head faster than i can blink my eyes. the insulators tend to leak spark, and you can only see it if it's dark, on the side of the highway, wondering why it's running like shit through the pass. i've seen it several plans. no problems in any of my briggs&stratton/ tecumesh engines, though

that black "iret hat" was cut is a ground. where was it? check the black/white wire for continuity between the switch and cdi, and if you recently removed the tors, check there. It's the same wire. at the switch plug, test between the black, and black/white wire. it should have continuity when you move the switch to off. check the harness by the airbox for melting on the pipes. everything really does point to a problem with the killswitch and nearby wiring. if you don't have a meter, get a hold of one. if you can't see the problem, you need to test for it. both problems happened at once, right?

turn the airscrews back in to 1.5, and clean/sync your carbs. don't forget the little choke jet in the bowl. i'm assuming your choke trasfer tube is on. what is your compression and altitude?

you can buy a regulator/rectifier for d/c conversion

when you put it back together, use some nyk dielectric compound, aka. "trucklight grease" i had an icing problem in there a couple months ago. Boy, what a pita. :: works like butter @ 30 below now, and stops the corrosion. don't use tune up grease in cold wheather, though.