AKheathen

why the hell not. boss had the spinners for those rims when they first came out

yup

...and temp

PRO-CIRCUITS!!!

haha, so you're saying the emultion tube is coming loose, right. well, there are supposed to be some brass washers that go under the main jet when you screw them in. it works as a retainer to keep them from poping out. they're ysually a bitch to pop out when cleaning, because of corrosion. i can mail you some if you can wait 'till i get home wednesday, or you can buy some at a local atv shop.

damn, you know those rims are for the original spinners? where are they? hehehe... :biggrin: mt sonoma never got as low as my yota, and i ended up with 20's on the tahoe instead. started drifting, and street racing, and just kept throwing the money into mor power handling and db drags. even sold the bags to pay for more push on the L7 15's

might get lucky, but that gasket's actually been moving around. i would replace it. not really a big costly job

also, if you are running alot of oil, like 20:1, it'll smoke alot, too. you can bump to 32:1, 0r 40:1 with the bigger jets, and still be getting the same or more oil in the engine

try syncing/adjusting your carbs. you should find more than enough how-to with a search.

the needle usually has a spring in it that allows the floats to jump around without beating the needle. if you set the fuel just a little high, the floats will bounce enough to let some extra fuel in.

you'll have to wait 'till i get home next week. i haven't even seen how my new seat looks yet.

sounds like you're missing the locknut on the adjuster, or are you talking about somehting else?

what's your cap to cap, or cap to ground reading? pickup gap? did you guys try new plug caps?

with a lid/snorkel?

well, damn, the question is to simple for me to vote definate. i know i would personally switch to strait race fuel around 175-180, but that doesn't account for abmient conditions such as heat,humidity, nitrogen content, or flow iinfluences, such as the exhaust charge or crankcase/intake efficiencies. of caurse, timing, too. the cranking compression really only gives you the condition of the cylinders in regaurds to the compression ratio. it's like asking the same question on a car that can be running n/a, or up to 30# of boost, but not specifying which. you can have 40# difference in cranking compression in 2 different engines that have the same octane requirements. also, are you asking which point you start loosing power from lack of compression for the fuel? :shrug:

we have to know your setup, as stated, but that hit is usually from the pipes. you do not want the boost bottle you are referring to, all that does is mute the throttle response down low, before you hit the pipe. you can switch to low-mid pipes and reeds and it'll have the power down low, so it doesn't punch you up top.

not bad, clean bike. here's mine when i first got it, and my sig is far from recent

today, pm me address and such.. sorry it took me to respond, i had a couple road calls, and barely slept from working late.

the first one, but i'm checking to see if it's my comp.

if you just barely have to touuch the throttle, then it's probably the tors. unplug the little black box under the gas tank, to the left of the coil

having troubles with the link

no prob.

start with the needles in the middle, and adjust up or down if you have a sputter or bog between 1/4-3/4 throttle range

depends if you ride real technical trails/woods. otherwise the 30's are about right, but i wouldn't go any bigger. doublecheck the spacing on that boost bottle. i have a white bro's bottle that is 1/4" off on the nipples. i belive it was supposed to be 4" center to center.

go down one size on the mains, and readjust the airscrews