AKheathen

yah, i just got back from jetting hell. finally got down to the beach where the humidity would make drastic changes by the hour, but i could really rip around and feel the jetting. i was forced to run bel-ray after going rounds with the dealership, which claimed that they never carry the oil that i've been buying from only them for a year, then claiming it was a fluke, then they only ordered it so people can run it in their diesels, etc.. but i got in a chop with a little lean @330 (less than 2mm around chocolate) then sputtery 4 hrs later. then zingy the next day ridding up to the gas station, and back to sputtering across the beach less than an hour later. I NEED DIAL-A-JET!!!!! like i said, i just pulled the plug to see if i was wrong about the lean bog, and chocked it up to the fmf silencers not having enough backpressure. when she rips, she really rips, though. so, you say there is still a hesitation with the right silencers? what kind of portwork did you do?

i pulled the plug because i wanted to see how much fuel/oil was on it when it bogged out and stalled. was wondering if i was mistaken about the lean bog. do your pipes like alot of fuel? i'm just perplexed that it wants at least5-6 sizes more than the fmf's, and keep second-guessing myself. thanx

don't have time to post the pics individually, so i just loaded stuff fom my phone to my album. you can check it there. the ones with the pro-circuts are from yesterday, or the day before. my photobucket if that don't work, click this if you are too curious for your own good, then click the next one. don't click me

ok, not nuts. she wants more fuel. i moved the needle 1 clip leaner, and it still bogged under load/off idle, so i made another lap, and when it bogged out, i let it keep goin till stall, and rolled back down out of the woods. pulled the plugs, and no fuel, just a little oil on the base. moved the needle all the way rich, added a quart of regular gas to the mix, warmmed it up for a couple min, and made a couple more laps. the bog/hesitation is almost gone, and it sounds a little zinggy on top, so i'm letting it cool to bump the mains. this backwards jetting method is a pita!

staring @ avatar......... ....*drool* was only a couple threads down when i searched pro-circuit

i can only get 90 @ the pump, but i'm gonna search out something higher to mix in town. i know i can at least get some LL avgas

i started @ 290. swaped needles a couple times. no lid, 20cc's, and t-5's are realitively smaller on the head and dump sections than the pc's, which effects jetting. i'm just hoping someone can short-cut me closer to save time. it takes time letting it cool to change the jets and warm it back up to operating temp. i'm at the point in my life that burns start to get annoying. :biggrin: i'm gonna play with the needles some more, and then bump top 350 and try to make it sputter.

i think i'm just gonna build both kinds and see what i like. the steel folding stock lengths are cheap on ebay.

has anyone tried grounding the radiator to the engine? i know not doing so in a tractor is guaranteed to pit the sleeves. seen it plenty on 07-08 modles that the factory forgot. new piston packs and some block repair free..... well we did the work.

OK, here's the deal, just put my pcp's on and I'm jetting in a confined space (back yard woods) can't get a plug chop 'till i get where I'm going. my main question is- are they generally really thirsty pipes. stock port, near sea level, 70 degrees, boysen power reeds(the clear ones) fmf silencers(don't have the pro-circuit stingers) so far, I'm up to 340 main, 25 pilot, longer,leaner needle, 2nd clip from blunt end. i can get it tuned in from idle to over half any rpm, but the problem is, wot and near sounds like a lean bog @ low rpm. if i just barely touch the throttle a second first, it'll take the wot stab and walk just fine, but i don't want it to do it in the woods, and just looking for extra opinions. can't get 27.5's in time, and the fmf's wanted 290's in the same conditions. have tried stock needles, too. before you ask- good blue spark R/L, pickup gap set. carbs all good/cleaned, everything where it should be, slides/choke tube/synced, etc. no air leaks, reeds good, this is getting time consuming, and i have allot to do. the fuel is a few weeks old, stored in a sealed can in the shade. kinda what I'm thinking :shrug: :shrug: :shrug: :shrug: :shrug: :shrug: :shrug: :shrug: :shrug:

OK, found this searching pro-circuit jetting for comparison, and gonna correct it in case Someone else finds it. pro-circuits are a broad midrange pipe with TONS of grunt, yet maintains top-end presence. not a top end pipe!

white smoke? blue smoke? what do the plugs look like? double check the main jets, and clean/sync the carbs

all the reliability rumors come from people bolting shit on without a second thought about jetting. "OMG, you have to premix oil?!?! what is this foreign rocket science?" or using the left-over 10 gallons of premix from the fall. numerous dry starts, and a blatant disregard of jetting, as long as it moves

i was also considering building a honda style shifter with a heel peg. i have one for my daughters' little raptor, but not the right geomitry for me.

no. you get a shorter shifter if you find yourself reaching forward to shift from where your foot normally rides. i'm actually keeping my eyes out fir a +1 or+2 because it's a little akward for me to get under the shifter. you can clock the shifter up or down a spline. moving mine up a couple really helped alot for me :cool: if you have any trouble finding neutral, it'll only get worse with a shorter shifter

i like the brushed stainless look, so i' started using scotch brite :biggrin:

what's up? we gonna have a ride soon? i'm headed down to ninilchick friday morning. gonna ride as much as possible 'till like wed or thurs. i'm jetting the pro-circuts right now. up to 340's. gonna take the fmf's with too. i live in anchorage

if antifreeze is in your tranny oil, then you have a bad water pump seal

ok, the rubber plug goes in the bottom of the cylinder before you put it on, but i just realized that the balance tube is above the head. the coolant hose goes down through it, though. you need to replace the head gasket. it's probably all coming from there. don't forget the seequence and retorque. you'd be amazed how loose the nuts get, especially the front.

x2, if you try to not use the puller, you will spend alota coin for a new flywheel, and posibly stator. only 13 bucks for the puller.

did you remember the rubber plug in the bottom of the cylinder? did you retorque the head after a few heat cycles?

take a nice firm grip on the bars, get reddy to say OH, MY FUCKING GOD! and let her rip! switching to a topend pipe from stock is alot more dramatic, but new pipes are night and day, regaurdless.

i have a stock red/black seat cover, and a blue/black ONE INDUSTRIES gripper/graphics

i'm not one to question your input, but the green/yellow e-brake wire is a normally open circut, and grounding is what activates the rev limiter, on a stock cdi.

probably 250 mains, stock pilot, airscrews @ 1.5 turns out to start and needle in the middle. buy 250 and 270 also, and 280 if you ride in the snow. just remember, if you remove the lid, go up 2-3 sizes on the mains.