AKheathen

unbolt the brake from the carrier, remove the 2 big axle nuts, left wheel hub and sprocket hub, tap the axle to the right. if it doesn't come out, remove the upper and lower bolts, stand the axle on end and tap the carrier off.

.....read this

sounds like a typical dealership to me..... they just set it to factory specs. after all you cant do better than that, right? they don't understand how a banshee works, or 2 stroke, for that matter. they scoff at them. grab a clymers and go over the carbs yourself. you'll probably find either the bowls are switched, or something else simple. was the fuel turned off when he picked up? check the plugs. it could flood if you don't

2 things- first, check the wiring, especially on the side of the airbox where it can get melted by the exhaust, if not in the clips on the airbox. next, you can do some tests on the cdi. if you have no spark, put the switch in kill and kick it over, then back in run and see if that helps any. then, smack the cdi with the butt of a large screwdriver, to either get it started, or while it's running to try to make it glitch.

himmmm-haaaaa.... hummm-hooo.... ok. send me your paypal

ok, here's where i'm @. the realtor tire line was transfered from pure sport to titan tires, but it seems titan stopped making them. now, the snafoo i'm dealing with is that the cheapest shipping i can find is $100. companies can get tires to me for $30. also, can only find in 10" rim. i have someone offering a pair as comphensation on a deal, but i don't wanna pay the 100. i might as well buy new-old stock for 140 shipped. anyone have a line on cheap shipping so i can make a deal with someone? argh, pullin my hair out and running short on funds....

so..... got an answer about the pancake?

you have any realtors? shipping 99516

anyone have a decent pair, or know where to get them?

how much for the pancake?..........dibs! curious about the crank....$$?

ok, this is getting real annoying. it only take sa fraction of a secont to type #'s next to the parts, but it can waste hours of peoples' time when you have to ask HOW MUCH!!!! on another subject- how much for the dyna? how much for the shocks? are those 2 sets of bb 20's with the head? do you have 4mill domes? do have a pancake bearing?

you sure it's not a zinc plated stud that's been turned down and died to fit a nut that's not thinwall? metric dies are 10x less likely to be in most toolboxes @ 2am half plastered.

same mod i mentioned already about the star. just check out the roller. if it has tons of play, sticks, or can roll off the star, then yes, but otherwise, they really don't go out.

ok, now it seems like someone might have dropped shit in his intakes. look how the valve stem is bent to the side. something aluminum would be masked real well.

ok, just vomited on my laptop.........you owe me a new motherboard!!!! hehe, anyways, looks like the top of the piston caught in the intake port.....lookslike some pretty loose clearance on that other piston, too. i have less clearance, and know i need a rebuild. i've been risking my cylinders 'till i get the 4mill, and leaving the 18's to collect dust.

whether you buy new or used, i would only use new caps anyways. think of them like a cap/rotor for your truck- a tune up item. in fact, go to a local shop and buy some new ones now and try them first. the coil rarely goes bad, but the caps do. you can find used coils all day long for around $30, so don't worry about loosing out on a deal. also, if you are in an area with alot of snow machining, sleds of the 80's-90-s use the same exact coil, from what i've seen. was thecoil tested with the caps/wires on, or just by itself?

what size boots?

yes it does. @ colder temps anyways. and pro circuis can be pretty fuel hungry. i'm 350asl non-ported. the fuel @ the local station will have fuel which atomises differently for higher elevations, which will bring you up a couple sizes, and the 4500level is one of the tweeners, which can be for 4500+ or 4500- fuel

i think he meant tire mounting slime, like "murphys' tire soap," not the name brand "tire slime" puncture sealant that you squirt in the tire.

the boost bottle will effect the pilot a little. more so, the colder it gets. may need to buy some 27.5 pilots.

what you are looking for is a new modled shift star with the longer pegs. there is also a sift shaft mod that will really help it shift while you're at it. check with the site sponsors to see who has them. i believe fast, alfies' toybox, m&M atv and mabey a few others has or can get them at a good price. they are also pretty helpfull guys

check firs that there is no tension on the cable, holding the clutch released. you should be able to push the little lever right above the shifter in on the top of the case just a little bit. as the clutch wears down, the slack will dissapear untill the clutch is held just a little released. slack the cable @ the adjuster on the handle bars untill you can get just a little play down @ the case by pushing that little lever with your finger. change the oil and try it out. if it starts slipping again, pop the cover and check the plates for wear. you might just need springs, but if you need new plates, replace the springs at the same time.

yah, i've been looking into swaintech for a few years, but never saw the work. really wanted and impregnated piston, but i guess you're right- reliability is a bit more important. did you account for the 0.008" film thickness?

wait, the throw-out arm is spring loaded and shouldn't flop. if the cable hangs up, however, the clutch lever on the handle bars will be limp, and hold the clutch disengaged. vibrations from revving the engine could help release the cable. i would check the cable itself, if you meant the lever on the perch goes limp.

you run local pump, right? i would start with 330 mains, stock needles in middle clip, and airscrews 1 turn from seated. be prepared to go down as far as 280 on the mains, as that elevation could carry different levels of fuel, and the temps can factor you a few sizes, also. proper plug chops can get you jetted right.