BenBB

Ok cool black/yellow is TORS don't worry 'bout those wires. You'll get it going I just hope it's a bad coil and an easy fix...

IMO Sidewinder chains aren't worth the dough, the sprockets are but the gold o-ring top-of-the-line chain I had didn't last any longer than anything else (actually it wore out faster). I like D.I.D. x-ring chains, for the money and the little effort I put into 'em they hold up well. Pre-stretched would be nice, I've looked at Regina before, might try theirs next. I know Tsubaki is huge in industrial chains, we've used them on the Caterpillar elevating scrapers at work, I'm sure they make some high quality shit.

Yes offset is where the wheel center is relative to the bead, inside to outside; here's what Douglas Wheels says about offset: "What are the pros and cons of running a wider offset? Wider Offset is a common expression for a wheel with the same overall width, but a center location that makes the Vehicle wider (or narrower). In our part numbering system, a typical description will look something like

Thanks they show the same rubber cement, bet I can find that at Home Depot...

Ok cool you can rule out the tether and the key switch those are right. The TORS shouldn't be an issue, because it isn't supposed to make it not spark at all just limit RPM if it thinks the throttle sticks or the e-brake is on; you remember what color those wires were? $5 to test it, hell yeah I think that's your best bet, the primary reading is almost double spec (.28-.38 Ohms) and you're getting some kind of voltage to orange so it sounds like your stator and CDI are ok (I believe the system is AC so a slight/fluctuating DC voltage reading is ok, I don't think it's an indication that the kill switch is jacked or anything, not that I'm an electrician or anything heh). Good luck let us know what happens.

Sounds like the current owner is clueless, no telling what kind of damage he's done; you could make a low offer or walk, but something ain't right with the current state of tune. Carbs out of sync will have the most affect right off idle up to about 3/4 throttle, could be that and/or simply a clogged jet on one side, could be worse like worn/broken ring on one side or crank seal, head gasket, broken reed or ripped reed cage boot (etc. etc.). Even with a few bolt-ons from stock it oughta pull hard from a dead stop...'course most of the power is at the upper RPM's so it's not anything like riding your garden-variety 4-stroke...

Gotta work on my boss's Kawi 1100Zxi & 1100STX, need to glue a couple of the factory rubber mat/hydromat things to the fiberglass (upper surface) and I'm striking out on finding a decent jetski forum, anybody know what kinda glue or adhesive I oughta use???? Or what forum to search? All I find online is some kinda superglue for the edges, the only reference on ebay showed a can of Dap rubber cement, any ideas?

RMA has decent prices on tires & rim packages...but you're gonna want to know exactly what you want (offset, rim size, tire size, # of paddles, etc.) before you call. Which ones depend on what you're doing; all-around I like my Skat-Trak Mohawk fronts 21x7x10 on Douglas black labels, although if I got them again I'd get less offset (like stock offset instead of some crazy 1+4 or something I got), and Skat-Trak Xtreme Haulers 8-paddle 20x10x10 on Douglas black labels. Just drag racing I'd be better off with small smoothbuffs up front and bigger diameter/more paddle/smaller wheel diameter out back, but I'd need more ponies to pull 'em. Everybody's got opinions tho, tell 'em what you want to do with it and others can make some better recommendations...

Ok both coils read nothing cap to cap (no continuity or outside the meter's range...the spec 4-7k Ohms seems like a shitload of resistance it may think that's an open circuit above 1000 Ohms I dunno). Both read .3 to .4 ohms between orange and black (within spec for primary coil). I couldn't get any readings between either cap and orange or black. Are you sayin' you don't have continuity from the big leads going from the coil to the 90-degree cap itself? Gunky ain't good when it comes to electrical, you might PM NYUK and see if he's got a working coil cheap, unless you got some donor plug wires from a car layin' around the garage. I still think the tether is part of the problem...

Alright I'll snag a meter from a mechanic here at work and check my '96 and my son's '01 and see what they got boot to boot, but you gotta look at those wire colors and check spark the right way...

I never stuck meter to coil, had a small local shop with a tester that didn't charge me anything so I never had to. I can test mine if ya want tho and see what it reads, but I've always heard it's not that conclusive. The best way to check spark is to put a (good) spark plug in the boot and hold the tip (metal electrode) to the head or a head bolt and have someone kick it over (hard), you should see a fat bluish spark jump from the center electrode to the tip. Alternatively you can stick a screwdriver in the cap and get shocked (NOT recommended for GM HEI systems, they ain't lyin' about high fucking energy ignition haha). The first method don't hurt though, and on a Banshee ideally you'd have the other cap on the other plug and it would be installed in the head; you can definitely do it alone you just hafta cling on there just right to hold the plug to the head and kick at the same time...

Ok yes they should be able to hook the coil up to a tester, they oughta have one, and if they aren't greedy bastards that just want you to buy their shit it should tell you for sure if the coil is kosher. It takes like two minutes they just plug it into a machine and it's go or no-go. If you can double check that tether as far as the colors of wires it goes to, if you have continuity with the tether on and it's hooked to the black wire and the black wire with a white stripe...it ain't gonna fire until you pull the tether off. But just checking for spark with it on and off (with a good spark plug obviously) will tell you for sure if it's the problem. Hope it is.

Ok what color wires is the tether hooked to? Did you try starting it (or check for spark) with the tether off?? Cool your stator & pickup coil is within spec for the ignition system, that part SHOULD work. Don't sweat the coil I've never been able to test one either, your best bet is to have a shop bench test it or swap in a different one, even if it's from a different quad just to check for spark. But first let us know what color wires that tether is hooked to, since it's a closed circuit for "on" and an open circuit for "off", if you have it going to black/white and black wire it's gonna work opposite if how it should...

Ya definitely take a close look at that wiring, if it's a normally closed switch it would work if it was on the key circuit because that one is closed (red/brown to black) when "on" and open when off. The stock handlebar kill switch is just the opposite; when black/white is NOT connected to black it runs, when black/white is grounded to black it kills it. I had one of those tethers for a while, bumped it with my knee I guess going through some whoops and it killed the motor but didn't pop off so I didn't know that's what did it, was thrashing around switching to reserve and kicking like crazy while half the pack passed me...that sucked haha! Not sure if you're gonna disconnect it and see if you have spark or just check the wire colors it goes to, but you can use that multi-meter to tell you if it works by opening or closing the circuit: Set it to check continuity, it might have a symbol like this "->|" instead of like 1000V or 100V or whatever. If you take the red and black leads from the meter and touch them together it should make a noise (some do anyway) or the display will change to reflect that you DO have continuity between leads (this means power, or actually electrons can flow from the red lead to the black one). If you took a single wire (or even a coathanger) and stuck one lead on each end of it, it should do the same thing and tell you that you have continuity because power can flow through it. IF it doesn't have a setting for that you can use resistance instead, it'll say like 1000 Ohms or just the Omega symbol (upside down "U"), and you just look at the display to see if a number shows up; it should be blank or all 0's when the red and black leads aren't touching, when you do touch them together it should instantly give you a number, doesn't really matter what the number is in this case you just want to see if power can flow through it, so a number means it can. Ok so to test your switch take the two wires loose and wrap the bare wires around each of the meter's test leads and see what it does with and without the tether on there. If you have continuity (the meter squeaks or displays some non-zero number when set to read ohms) when the tether is on, that tells you that the switch operates by completing the circuit between the two wires, in this case if you had it hooked up to the key switch red/brown and black wires it would work ok because it would tell the CDI to fire when you have the tether on and when it breaks the circuit between red/brown and black it tells it to shut off (in this case you should have no continuity when you pull the tether off, if not then the tether switch itself is prolly jacked). Conversely if you have continuity when the tether is off, it means that the switch operates by keeping the circuit open and (hopefully) when you pull the tether it WILL have continuity; that is the type you need for the kill circuit, the switch's ground should go to the black wire and the switch's "hot" should go to your black/white wire. Hope that made some sense man, good luck.

The kill switch circuit should be open when it's set to "run" (or for a tether when you have the tether in, or the button not pressed if it's a pushbutton...or black/white NOT connected to black in any case, when the two make a complete circuit it tells the CDI not to spark)...make sure black/white isn't grounded or spliced into black anywhere that could be it. You can disregard the TORS stuff, yes it could be the stator they just go sometimes, could be the CDI, could be wiring/connectors, could be pickup coil...but I'd definitely make sure that kill switch is set up right first, if black/white touches frame or ground or the black wire anywhere in the harness it'll tell the CDI not to fire. Good luck, check that out and post back...

If ya wanna understand it, check this. It's a start at least. If it was mine I'd go ahead and use the Toomey needles, start where you have 'em in the middle clip position...it's trial & error but you should be somewhere between 270 and 300 on the mains, you might need 30 pilots and for sure will need to play with the airscrews but once you get it all dialed in perfect it'll be well worth the effort. Good luck.

Jeebus two grand for lights?! I bet the freight from Alba was a purty penny...sounds like he was just trying to spend the most money possible...

I agree on both counts, unless the strip is at a fairgrounds or something which might be county land. The VIN is on the frame on the LH side just below the case, it's also on the case just below the LH carb...needless to say they oughta match. NM has the same shit at the DMV, no title no reg, I jumped through a few hoops trying to get one on one of mine and struck out so fuck 'em I'll keep my thirty bucks every three years or whatever it is.

Word. Although opinions vary on oils, I use Chevron 80W90 in the tranny with no probs, if I was to recommend an oil it would be Bel-Ray Gearsaver though. I definitely agree about the fuel/oil mix though, it will run like dog shit if it was built for higher octane fuel, and the jetting will also be affected by the different mixture; drain the old and go with your own fuel/oil mix. Just to add to #4 & 6, a general rule of thumb is test your compression and anything under 100psi or 10% difference between cylinders means its time for a topend...technically you could just re-ring and hone the cylinders but in my experience it's not really worth it unless you're strapped for cash (just bore to the next size and get new pistons). Good luck.

Honda-style tie rods & ends are the way to go; the end is female thread instead of male (where they usually snap/bend) and the rod is solid.

I've never had to adjust mine but it's conceivable they could be out of adjustment, 20-22mm is the height from the gasket surface (without gasket), couldn't hurt to check it just in case. Could also be fuel starvation elsewhere, like at the fuel tank strainers, you can remove the fuel petcock and check those...more often they just fall off in there and let debris into the carbs but clogging is possible. Good luck.

ROFL!! WTF was that??!? Jeez 123mpg that's insane. Toomey used to make a pipe for the RZ(?)50 didn't they...

I agree with slo I would suspect an air leak on the LH crank seal, especially since the carb boots were cracked, anything rubber that's not submerged in oil is a potential problem. I'm pretty sure the stock reeds were fiberglass with metal stops like Banshees', not 100% there tho, just what was in my RZ motor when I got it but there's a good chance they got swapped somewhere before I got ahold of it. Anyway if you don't already have a means of doing a leakdown test you can always try the can 'o ether method, with it idling spray here and there with the ether and listen for the RPM to increase, in this case with the choke on...if you're REAL careful you could try to hit that crank seal behind the flywheel while she's spinnin'. Good luck.

I'd probably call up Toomey and ask first, worst case sudco.com has Mikuni-type screws, check out the "VM Parts" section pdf , item # 32, Idle Adjusting Screw, it says "26, 28, 34, 40mm and Idle Conversion 02-184 for Yamaha Blaster, Banshee, 24-34 flange". Uses a spring instead of a locknut tho, I'd get that too...

Dayum :woot: