BenBB

I agree with these guys, I would definitely get some 30 pilots, start with the airscrews 1.5 turns out, and THEN check for air leaks. Make sure the choke tube is in place between the carbs (I'm assuming stock carbs). You should be able to adjust the airscrews from there and the idle speed if necessary to get a clean idle and off-idle response (if you're at a very high elevation or at an extreme of premix ratio you may need one size larger or smaller on the pilot, but 30's should get you pretty close for now). Once you get the pilot/airscrew circuit dialed in (primarily only from idle to about 1/8 throttle), I'd double check your mains (do a plug chop if you can) for about 3/4 throttle to WOT, and then if you have any bog or hesitation from about 1/4 to 3/4 throttle try adjusting the needle clip position. Usually reeds will want a little leaner clip position than the stock middle position (3rd on a 5-groove needle) but with your new needles you may just have to try different settings and see which one works best. Out of curiousity, what mains are you running now? Good luck.

I'm just about set, just gotta rejet and sync my carbs tonight. Got my PRM belly skid plate, swingarm skidplate and TM roller chain guide, and some 20" Holeshot XC's on stock rims so should be good to go. I still have that 15T sprocket on the front, hafta see how the preride goes, might need to switch back to the 14. I'll be there no later than 2pm, actually prolly will be closer to noon but either way I'll be there way before the preride starts. Anybody heard from Chris or Jason yet? Dustin you for sure out of it? Hope T.J. is feelin' up to racing too...

Yes the CDI's are different but you can still use a 5-wire on a 4-wire system, you just hafta take the pins out of the connectors and disregard the 5th one (don't remember what it goes to but it will run fine without it). More on that in the FAQ if you want to check it. I agree with Monk on the compression thing, but it almost sounds more like a pilot jetting issue than electrical, at least since you said you swapped stators (weak spark from kicking compared to a bump start turning the motor over faster). If you're sure it's not jetting or compression, and you have another CDI to try, it's worth a shot. Good luck.

Yes you can run a TZ bearing on the clutch side, the Koyo part number is 70241-1 but they are kinda hard to find, and expensive. The other option besides stock is "max load" bearings, think they are 8-ball roller bearings but you might call TDR or Crank Works or Twister and see what they use, if you can find the bearing part number alot of times you can get 'em cheaper at a local bearing store (just make sure you get good quality bearings, not Chinese crap). Heh, and while you're at it might as well get that guy some more stickers for is ex, oughta be worth another 5hp, he'll need it.

Late but what the hell, happy birthday mang! Might I suggest a cupholder for that creeper?

ROFL KGL!!! OMG that was hilarious, and painfully true at the same time

Yep drive it right out, I think I set mine on a large socket (like a 22mm impact socket) to support the back side of the hub as I was wailin' on it.

That's crazy, just the sheer size of everything is mind-blowing. Then you see something like this and realize all it takes is one moron to really jack things up:

Hell yeah I'm ready! Can't wait man, see if I can keep up with yer monster motor heh. I hope the track is good, they pretty much destroyed the old track when they built that Monster Truck deal, so I really want to see what it looks like now. I'm gonna be there early Saturday to check it out, haven't put on the swaybar or lowering shit until I see what it looks like. Oh yeah, just heard that the Las Vegas desert race got changed to the same weekend as that TT National in Brashear, so looks like I'll miss the TT this year...

Here's another real similar illustration. To answer your question, yes it's the throttle position because the carb doesn't know what RPM the motor is spinning, all it does is meter how much fuel goes in, depending on how far you open the throttle (i.e. how much air goes in, the carb tries to maintain the right air/fuel ratio). So it's possible to be real rich on one circuit and lean on another and have a similar scenario that you described, or be just a hair rich/lean on one circuit and perfect everywhere else... OK for example if your needle was way too rich and all other circuits were perfect, it would start and idle fine, and once it was WOT it would run fine, but if you held it at 1/2 throttle it would run rough, or when you stabbed it to WOT it would stumble; because that middle throttle position is feeding too much fuel, once it gets past that rich condition and on the mains it can rev out clean. All else being the same it wouldn't matter what RPM the motor was spinning, but higher revs would probably help through the rich transition... Anyway, jetting is alot of trial and error, so play with one circuit at a time and you'll get there eventually. Good luck.

Uhh Power Cores don't have spark arrestors, Turbine Cores do...and you really can't remove them easily. You can take the packing out of the silencers, but yer ears are gonna be ringin'.

Happy Birthday Holyman! Or may ye birthdayeth be doth happieth, well you get the idea I need some coffee.

Like zilladude said, about all that's left to swap is the key switch, the wiring harness, and the CDI. Try jumping the switch first, then swap out the CDI's. You can remove the terminals from his CDI connector and yours and test it (just remove the terminals from the connectors and put them in the other connector, it's in the FAQ below, I know it works because my Dyna was for a '97 and my bike is a '96 but anyway). My money's on the CDI but I would take the time to swap it out first, as there's still an outside chance that it's a different connector or wiring harness problem like kenr74 said...or compression, air or fuel as I posted in your other thread. Good luck.

Right on Turbo J, good to hear you got her goin'.

Same here Josh, haven't ridden much but do have a TT this weekend. My skidplates should be here soon tho, woohoo! I just talked to Susie @ R&S and she said the flyers for Socorro should be mailing out this afternoon...

HELL YEAH MIKE!!!! You got some cojones, those things are intimidating as hell (I have yet to find one wide enough for a quad, don't really think I'd enjoy getting launched by my skidplates on the narrow dirt bike ones), but just like big dune jumps there's nothin' like it...

I'd try first; fresh plugs, sync the carbs, clean the air filter...

LOL Fireman, I was gonna say somethin' about that, like you guys are goin' to WAY better New Year's parties than I am, heh. Congratulations Fireman-hott! Also congrats to my friend Bryan, his daughter Brooke Lynn Aragon born 9/3/04!! Best of luck to all of you.

I dunno, shit I should find out before I drive all the way over there, heh. Last year they weren't Nats, so we had 2 heats and a main, there were tons of classes (for a Banshee you had Open Am, Open Expert, and Over 30), and each heat had about 5-10 guys in it, mains were about 15 to a class. Not sure how they qualify for a National, proquad101 how does it work??? For that National I'm sure you'll hafta have an AMA or ATVA card, I had to get one earlier this year for the desert races...

Sounds like you took out the right stuff (connectors to carb tops, connector to control box, yes just disconnect the thumb throttle and e-brake perch switch). Don't remember offhand what yellow/green goes to hmmm (e-brake switch?) but anyway, I'd do a quick spark test and find out for sure (might try it with fresh plugs just in case) if it's electrical or jetting, I'm guessing the latter because it doesn't sound like you cut anything critical for it to run. Good luck.

Congratulations Turbo and thecabinboy! I got a buddy in AZ with a girl due, well today heh. Have fun boys.

Damn, I need to practice!!! Wish I could make it this weekend, you ready to race chipdog?

Bullet Speedway in Brashear, Texas. Mark Krotky runs it, with help from the guys at Twin Creeks Raceway in Greenbrier, AR. It's about 700 miles one way from Roswell, heh, on the other side of Dallas like 30-40 miles or so. Mark is a contender in Open Expert TT & ST in the Nationals, at least he ran 'em last year, I haven't talked to him since those 2 races last year. This year Bullet Speedway will host a National TT, October 16/17 I think. Twin Creeks' National is...I dunno September maybe but I can't make it this year. With any luck I'll be at the TX race tho...

Vent and bypass lines: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=33028 Radiator hoses: Front of head to top of radiator Bottom of radiator to water pump

The one on the head is a bypass line not a vent; it goes up to the top right of the radiator to a little nipple above (if I remember right) the upper radiator hose. It carries antifreeze, supposedly from a "hot spot" in the top rear of the head to the radiator. The one below the water pump is a case vent, it goes up to a tee more or less between the carbs. From the tee rearwards the line goes to another vent nipple right below the rear motor mount. From the tee forwards it goes over the front frame crossmember, and just hangs downward more or less over the right pipe. The only other small lines like that are to the coolant overflow bottle, if you have the bottle the line from below the radiator cap goes to the bottom of the bottle and the line from the top of the bottle runs forward alongside the case vent line and also ends above the right pipe. If the bottle is gone like mine, I just run that line straight down from the radiator cap above the left pipe, so if it releases coolant it'll hit the pipe and make a nice stinky steam cloud...