lt1bird

any idea what the diffrence is?

anyone? anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

I plan on using it for street riding only, not drag racing..... I plan on using my wideband a/f gauge and will weld a bung in the pipes for tuning... Just figured I could save some time. Thanks for the info

Tried the jettting board...does not seem to be any action there.... Hello all! Before I start tunning I was wondering if someone can help me get my jetting a bit closer so I have some parts on hand when I start jetting. Engine info: 535 cheetah with only port cleanup, no race porting etc... pump gas engine 93 octane 38mm pwk carbs k&n air filters big bore drag pipes modifiyed for street use (1" ID outlet at stinger) With silencers (Power pro pipes out of frame) Im at about 500' above sea level. mix ratio will probably be stock Thanks for any hints or help!

Hello all! Before I start tunning I was wondering if someone can help me get my jetting a bit closer so I have some parts on hand when I start jetting. Engine info: 535 cheetah with only port cleanup, no race porting etc... pump gas engine 93 octane 38mm pwk carbs k&n air filters big bore drag pipes modifiyed for street use (1" ID outlet at stinger) With silencers (Power pro pipes out of frame) Im at about 500' above sea level. mix ratio will probably be stock Thanks for any hints or help!

I think were on the same page After I took it back a part, it looks like thats exactly what it does....Since it spins on the spacer it would need a little space to dis enguage......There is no wobble...... I think its a magunm housing....Very nice quality.... I figure with the helicoil gears it would suck the housing all the way to one side......I bet that why the streight cut gears make more noise,......since the housing seems to float a bit more..... Thanks!

I have a billet clutch housing and streight cut gears I just put on..... I put the springs on and noticed that the billet housing seems to slide in and out a bit (.03"). Is this movment normal?? Thanks!

I did the same...my gap was only .008.....I was told it was ok but I filed to .012...... didnt want to take a chance... also make sure the rings were number side up....

Flowing out the little bleeder hose or out the bigger head hose...they both will be under pressure....pushing coolant into the radiator. Thanks all for the feedback

I could see why it would be there but all the way to the very top? Lets face it, at the top of the radiator there will be only air....Now, as long as the hose at the top of the head has someplace to push the air im sure it would be fine....... Would it really make any diffrence....Im thinking no unless someone can convince me They mount the fitting at the top bacuse it's really the only simple place to mount it....Just a Guess on my part I dont think the RZ350 uses a vent???

I typically coil over the spark plug wire unless you have one of the CDI's that has a RPM out wire.....better check the manual....

I have a radiator that does not have a location for the Cyl vent hose......Can I "T" it into one of the other hoses? It seems to want to be at the very top of the radiator.....I do not really want to drill a hole etc to mount a fitting.....I do have a port thats plugged about 25% down from the top of the radiator...I could put a fitting in there...Just wondering if the design intention was to have the fitting at the very top of the radiator where there probably is no antifreez.....just hot air.........Think the 25% down from the top would be ok??? Thanks!

I did file them to the .012.... they were at .007.......kind a tight but the wiesco rep said that was borderline tight....at .007 and he would file them. He said they would probably be fine even at .007 but just do it I did file in one direction toward the center of the ring....Then used a smaller fine file to remove burrs.... they should fine........ Thanks

Dont forget to do the test with the engine warm

Im finally ready to put on the top end on my 535 cheetah engine. Wiesco piston installation slip says .012" min gap.... anyone have a diffrent gap and why? Pump gas engine......... Oh, any any helpful hints on filing the ring gaps? I have good files with diffrent roughness....and a sharpening stone to clean up the burrs...you do use a sharpening stone for that? Thanks for the feedback folks

Thanks for the info

with that timing I thought you would...... thanks You programmed it exactly as curve #3.....for a big bore engine? What size engine do you have? Pipes?

so you used curve #3 and also moved your timing plate to +4 ? You run race gas??

I did see that one......... just wondering if there is anyone else that maybe did some dyno runs.... to perfect it...

looking for an advance map for my 535...need a starting point I have programmable ignition..... non drag bike...street use.... Thanks!

thats what I have found searching....I call the place I got my crank just in case

anyone?

well I cleaned up the key with a little 1200 grit sand paper and taped that sucker right on. Thanks!

I have a crankshaft with upgraded bearings "lots of balls like 11".... it has orings on the flywheel and two center bearings.... but only a clip grove on the clutch side bearing...do all upgraded bearings not have the locating nub? I happen to be looking at my old crank and saw the location nub on the old clutch side crank bearing and now im starting to wonder...did I miss the locating nub on my new crank?? im 90% sure I did not see any on the bearings........ Do any of the upgraded bearing use locating nubs??? or do they just use orings or clip groves??

was it a factory yamaha key? I see that thiers has a small protursion on the side of the key....this is meant to keep the keyway in the pocket so it will take a little tapping....the aftermarket key does not have it....