lt1bird

come on guys....I know there are a bunch of you that have trinity power valve cyl......

Im doing ther same today....Gonna finlly drive it a bit up and down the driveway...done doing heat cycles and re-torques...Im hoping my trannd shift like yours Were those new plugs for the chop? If it were super lean they would be white even if they were sooted up from idleing though all your heat cycles.... I would put new plugs in for the WOT chops... sounds like your doing great!

Hey, im old enough to know that you never should underestimate what its got....Ive seen a 1970 big ass chevy impala with a twin turbo setup...it had almsot 1000hp and looks like a grandpa car all the way down to the hubcaps! I think there is a video on youtube! so ill pass on that race LOL

I have been running the engine more(2nd time running), is it normal to get smoke out of the powervalve vent tube? For some reason I thought these were vented just inside the top cap and it just controlled how fast the PV would open/close....Thought it was sealed better. Seems much more smoke on one side....maybe it will go away when all the oil burns out from inside the case as i did lube the crank up alot with twostroke oil??

Nice!! Funny, I have the same rebuild pics when I did my engine... putting the engine together is half the fun! Enjoy!

The bike is a united motors 250....its the size of a 600 cc sport bike. Its made by suzuki for UM.....It even has a suzuki title.... The engine is a 535 with trinity power valve cyls..... A matoon block, 2.36 gears for street use...that was a pain as the engine block and cases, water pump needed to be modifed for the gears to fit... Billet crank from trinity/hot rods, forged pistons...150PSI pressure for pump gas, power pro chambers super modifed by me to fit the bike...1" outlet for street use, cascade innovations silencer(nice and quite)..... 38mm carbs, ignitech programmable ignition, custom cables I made, crf450 radiator polished, rz350 kicker, all kinds of little stuff that broke the bank LOL... Everything was pretty much new.. I just hate used parts.... The bike weighs about 340lb wet... While it will not beat every bike on the road I only need to be faster than the slowest bike when the cops coming calling LOL... I could not have done it without a lot for guidence from this forum and a guy on usa2strokers forum.... this board has been the best...a ton of sharp folks here, cheers to you all! :beer:

sheezuki thats to funny! I might use it

LOL.....I know about the stickers....Not sure what I want to do with it...

From under the steering stem there are some nice beefy holes. I bent some square aluminum tubing. That runs down the center of the radiator on the front. Then there are supports top and bottom rubber mounted. It looks free floating...kinda cool but the whole assembly can be pushed forward toward the front tire to give me plenty of room to work without removing it....

I know, sorry about the switch and bait.....if I told folks what I was doing they would tell me Im crazy.....

Its too funny...I have an aprilia rs250 that i ride on the street.... so many folks do not know what 2 stroke's are...only folks with 2 strokes know the sound The cascade banshee silencers really keep the noise down...the quality on the silencers is awsome!

definatly will make a on board video Already have the camera......... Ya, it took a while to build it.....the engine was the most fun...always nice working with all new parts! Still, had to modify the block....2.36 streight cut gears you need to custom machine the water pump shaft, clearnce the block, the side cover etc ....the gears are pretty large in dia..... it was all very fun and a learning experince....never tore down a banshee engine before....was similar to my cr500 engine... The timing will be set to 17 degrees at idle...I think the max timing will be 28 degrees.... Im using a ignitech programmable ignition...pretty slick device...hook your laptop up to it and make your curve....very easy to use and real cheap compared to the dyna... I do have a battery though....

Well I finally started the 535 i built over the winter...from scratch..... Started up pretty quick... Lots of smoke probably from the oil I pourded on the cank bearings etc.... Seems pretty good so far.... Whats the best break in process? Trinity says run it for 3 minutes...let it cool, retorque heads and cyls....top off radiator...they say do that 3 times then ride it gently. What about the engine case bolts? Do any of you retorque them after break in?? I will check the timing after the third start cycle and adjust it....to 17degrees Anyone have any other sugsetions? Oh, here is a pic of the final project: Thanks for all the help by many forum folks...

Thats what my plan was....just wondering if anyone had any other idea's....So will the two springs on each pipe hold it on ok? My cr500 use to push that pipe off the flange when reved up..... finally siliconed it in I still have the powervalves so it will move the springs up a bit more as well...

I have a cheetah cyl and it has no spring mounts to hold the pipes on. What do folks do to hold the pipes on good? I guess I could mount some springs down lower on the pipes??/ speak up cheetah owners!!

Bought the cascade innovations....they are much larger and nicer that the toomey silencers....

anyone know what the max engine size would be for toomey pipes? I have a 535, big bore pipes but need silencers. Im looking at the toomey silencers, just wondering if they will breath ok? Any opinions?

Im pretty sure they are the same except the rz350's have a provision for the oil injection...I think you simply dont put that gear on....no issue...

I have a ignitech ignition. It runs off a 12V battery so the spark is real strong, dont need to kick it to pre-charge the cdi..... Im sure it will be fine....Plus the engine is tight as it has not been run yet.... Im sure after a heat cycle it will lossen up a tad... Hell, I had my xr600 throw me clear over the handlbars once when starting, thank god it was onto the grass....I pissed myself laughing... only if I had that on film!!! Anyone got some baseline jetting for this engine...I have 38mm carbs.....

I know what you mean.....My kick leg was in great shape from kicking the cr500.... It's a trinty PV engine stock porting. Also im running a RZ350 kick starter which is longer...... I dont think its anywhere near the cr500 to kick.... but it does stop before I can get throught the second cylinder compression stroke. The compression stops me at the bottom of the kick stroke on the second cyl compression...... Hell maybe it will fire up no issue on the first cyl stroke.....I hope!

Been there But can you kick it through the two compression cycles using one kick or just the one compression.....???

got a magnum from RDZ....Great quality....Rob even assembled it using my old bushing..... Great folks...

Im having flashbacks with the cr500 LOL....Kick that f-in thing more than I care to.... So if you do a less that full tilt kick your only gonna get through the one compression cycle? Should I start like the cr500....get it to the compression stroke and jump on it..... I acutally had better luck with the cr500 doing quicker rabbit kicks.... Does your big bore ever kick back on you?

Ive got my engine together finally....10mm and I was kicking it over to see how hard it is. Dam....It kicks over kinda slow...... I was hoping it would kick over a bit easier....Compression is about 170psi. I can kick it throught one cylinder compression stroke but cant get through the second one....Is this normal? Im thinking it would get through both cylinder compression strokes once. I have not "Jumped" on the starter yet....LOL... Its not any where near my cr500 but is still tough... Normal??? I knows its a lot larger than stock....my 250 2 stroke I just use my hand LOL....

Thanks Guys!