lt1bird

Looking for 84/85 rz350 tranmission, must be in great shape, no chips/wear etc.... cannot be the banshee transmission as the gearing is not same... please email me direct at LT1BIRD@aol.com Thanks!

thanks for the info on the products for sale...... I perfer to use new parts as I always have so much invested........ Still wondering if anyone has first hand knowledge on thie vibration on 421 vs 535 etc....

Wondering at what point folks balance thier cranks and assemblies? I have a 535 trinity kit, vibrates a bit at idle, when riding it seems fine.... Its in a street bike chassis, im now doing a 485 kit in another streetbike chassis.... would like to reduce the vibration....a bit.....do you think the 485 becuase of the short stroke will vibrate less than the 535 even without balancing? On a side note..... what about a race ported 421 cheetah with power valves vs a stock port 485 cheetah? what would the main diffence be in power hit vs max power? I know my 535 feels like a 4 stroke....very little power hit, just pulls like a train from low to high rpms.... would the 421 be much smoother than the 485 and rev quicker and have a nicer power hit vs the 485 torque monster? I know I might leave a few hp on the table but it might make for a more fun street bike....????/ any opinions?

Looking at the twostrokeshop 485 kit....they use cheetah based cyls and Wossner one ring pistons...... I dont know anthing about these pistons....one ring seems like less friction but will it seal good enough?

yup....gonna richen up the mains and the needle...when and if it ever stops raining ill let you know how the egt goes at that same location....

It revs pretty darn quick and im always changing gears quickly.... defintly needs a bit more top end gearing to cruize on the hwy without reving to high....

15t front and 46 rear......2.36 primary gears and a 17' tire at 50-60 mph i rev about 4k rpm..... cant remeber 100% but I do know I wanted more gearing as hwy use will be tacking a bit higher than I wanted....Bought a new sproket 44 teeth for rear....will change front sprocket to If that does not get me where I want to be...

38mm carbs..... I started at 175 main jets....kept dropping jets until it ran better, more crisp... the 158 seems to be the point where it started to run very crisp...I just wwnted to go down more until I saw the power get better or drop off.....The jets from the 158 down to the 142 really did not notice it much...Guess I bottomed out..... The needle clip was running fine on the middle position but i was trying to fix a bog situation.... If i wacked the throttle open at 2k rpm(in 6th gear) it would bog.....If i opened it quick it would be fine.....just not wacked open...Im just looking for perfection....Im not sure a scenario would happen at 2k rpms I would wack the throttle open....in 6th gear.....LOL banshees would probably spin the tires but on a street bike the gears and traction might casue me to see alot of things you guys dont... What do you think a sieze should feel like? Mine felt just like running out of gas but without the WWWWWAAAAAAA bogging sound.... more like the breaks were being put on...Engine still turning but very tight as it stalls when the clutch pulls in.....

I know what you mean........I already have the needles so thats not a probelm. If you look at the chart for the needles you will see that the taper effects the mixture the most at 3/4 throttle.... the lenght not so much. Thats the only reason I was going to change the needles...based on the chart..... Im guessing your correct on the clip position....It would move it more that the taper thats for sure. I think between the needle clip and the too lean of main jet it is simply just to lean. I moved my main jet back to 158 from 142, ill try the richer needles and let you know how they work....if drivebiltiy suffers than ill put the DEN back in....leave the clip in the center. Yes, the feeling of it siezing is most notable! just like you run out of gas/bog..... If it were electrical my EGT would not have shot up....

Im not sure one clip position will be enough....im in the second to the top clip position....I know I can drop it down but the clip position only really effects only very little at 3/4 throttle....The Neddle taper effects it a bunch at 3/4 thottole where it was lean. My egt was real fine when wide open.....when i slowly rolled off the throttle to 3/4 throttle I could see the EGT start to go real high...about 1300F which is bad......Just as im about to pull the clutch in i could feel it start to tighten up/seize....rpms were dropping fast......similar to running out of gas..... I did lots of other testing around town......all was good....I just could not do a 3/4 thrttole run around town, thats why i hit the hwy...... thats when I saw it spike..... Checked out the engine....everything look fine....no scoring etc..... Funny, I did the same thing many months ago when it was cold out....Got it running then went for a quick rider and did not warm it up.... went WOT, and I could feel it doing the same thing....siezing...... My engine is very tight....Now I warm it up to 130 degrees before i set out.... Thank god for the EGT gauge otherwise i might have thought ignition etc.....

I need to do more reserch on the need length.....DEN and CEN both have the same length but the taper is greater on the DEN. Im a bit confused on that....I just look at the chart and go richer or leaner per the chart....But within each group there seems to be diffrent lengths as well...Guess I need to look at that closer....The differnt legths....just changin clip positions would change the length as well...Guess Ill measure the gap between the clip positions and see what they are....

I already have tons of needles.......I think a few things led to this happening..... I went to a much smaller main jet.... from 148 to 142...(trying to get the egt at WOT to 1100f.... the needle clip position is in the leaner second clip position... changing the clip position might help but I think it would simply move the lean condition down the throttle position more.....I think the correct fix is to use a richer needle and move the clip postion and maybe go back up a bit on the main jetting. Around town I never saw any issue at all....all my wot runs were perfect....all my midrange runs etc all looked great...I felt I was done tuning.... around town i never really roll off the throttle from WOT as I do not have enough room to do that...... I figured I would hit the hwy to see if the constant cruzing at speed was good.....it looked just fine..... at 1/2 throttle.... but a sustanded higher rpms must have heated the EGT up too much so when I backed off the throttle to 3/4 throttle it was just enough to make it over heat... I think im lucky I pulled the clutch in so quick...as I could feel it just starting to do it.... ill put a bore scope down the plug hole to check the cyl... does this happen to others here??

165 PSI compression 535 engine no real porting 110 race gas +4 timing 38mm carbs trinity cyl's with power valves forged weisco

CEN needles, 38mm keihn carbs I did try the CEl needles they seem to work very good...had just a little bit of low end sputter just off idle, thats why im using a CEN needles now as that change cleaned up the sputter.... bike acutally runs pretty darn good. It leaned out at about 3/4 throttle not down low...... thats why im looking at changing to the DGN needles as they are richer in the 3/4 throttle range.....

Two carbs....

38mm keihn, CEN at 2nd clip from top... thinking the DGN might help as its richer in the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle range....

Im thinking that when I back off the throttle at high rpm from WOT the needle starts to block the main jet causing a lean condtion... A shorter needle will move that point down the rpm scale... I bet it will still be a bit lean when rolling off the throttle. Only fix i see is a much larger main jet.......even though my main jet is a bit rich right now.....

This is posted in the egt question as well: Did some reaserch and this is what i found for exhuast gas temp... should be roughly 1100 at wot 1000 just before the pipe comes on higher rpm cruze like 1/2 throttle 200 at idle well, mine is about 180 at idle, about 842 while 1/4 throttle cruzing at WOT ist 1000 Took it out on the hwy for a run and at wide open throttle it was about 950-1000 then as i roll off the throttle(1/2-3/4) I see the egt shoot up to 1290--1300.....guess what happens next? You guessed it.....just as I start to pull the clutch in I can feel it tighting up/seizing....still stalled but it was very very close.....Guess ill put richer needles in before I do that run again..... I dont think the needle clip postion will fix that problem whats your guess? since its happening right at 1/2-3/4 ill probably need a diffrent needle length....im running a cen.....Guess ill try a Richer DGN as I have some... any opinoin on this? Are they prone to seizing while rolling off the throttle??? like my buddie pete says....If its go tits or wheels its gonna give you trouble"

Did some reaserch and this is what i found 1100 at wot 1000 just before the pipe comes on higher rpm cruze 200 at idle well, mine is about 180 at idle, about 842 while 1/4 throttle cruzing at WOT ist 1000 Took it out on the hwy for a run and at wide open throttle it was about 950-1000 then as i roll off the throttle(1/2-3/4) I see the egt shoot up to 1290--1300.....guess what happens next? You guessed it.....just as I start to pull the clutch in I can feel it tighting up/seizing....still stalled but it was very very close.....Guess ill put richer needles in before I do that run again..... I dont think the needle clip postion will fix that problem whats your guess? since its happening right at 1/2-3/4 ill probably need a diffrent needle length....im running a cen.....Guess ill try a DGN as I have some... like my buddie pete says....If its go tits or wheels its gonna give you trouble"

I spent big bucks at trinity....nothing but a great experince....service was great, parts good....James is awsome..... Bought cascade innovations sileners and pipes....missing some parts from the box but they took care of it quick, killer quality! Love both companies.....

Its all good.... The k&n are new....oiled from the factory....I have not put the pods on this bike but they always seem to flow real well on other bikes ive had.... My jetting is very close to another person jetting on this forum with similar mods....he also has k&n's im pretty sure.. My bike runs great...just seems like its not fully getting on the pipe at wot(a tad rich)...at 1/2 throttle it gets on the pipe nice.... im gonna keep lowering the main until ive gone to far and it feels lazy.....then ill go back richer a bit.... Thanks!

Ive been running k&n individual air cleaners.... im still tweaking my jetting..Im down to 142 on the mains...(38mm keihn carbs on a 535 non ported engine) Im thinking the k&n's are somewhat restictive compared to foam type air cleaners so it will require a smaller main jet than a foam filter....Figure with all the suction inside the carb that it would suck fuel out the main a bit more then with the foam filters.... can anyone confirm this? Thanks!

Ive been looking for some egt numbers to get me close. maybe someone can post them.... Idle= cruz= Wide open= 165 PSI compression 535 engine no real porting 110 race gas +4 timing Thanks!

Sweet.....I have not seen mine go over 195 yet in stop and go traffic.... Thanks!

Just wondering what a basic banshee water temp is.....Mine runs around 180 degrees.....should this be warm enough? I have a very large radiator....